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Replacing Fuel Injector Plugs

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The stock fuel injector clips on older DSMs will crack, corrode or otherwise deteriorate over time creating a real risk of failure. I took my car to a shop years back whom did not remove the metal retaining clips when removing from the injectors thereby destroying the fragile 10year old plastic plugs. When my #1 injector plug popped off during a spirited 1-2 shift I had enough.

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(note bottom portion of OEM plug that would otherwise retain the clip is missing)

This VFAQ shows the necessary steps to install a new set of replacement fuel injector plugs on a 1G DSM. I bought this set from Summit Racing and includes (8) Injector Plugs and (4) wire end/clips. Obviously we only need ½ of the above for our 4cyl, so buddy up with someone and have an injector plug changing party :) . Mach V sells a set of (4) for about the same price, your choice.

Note: Be sure to take proper care when working around the fuel rail / injectors as fuel vapor is flammable / explosive.

Parts Needed:
- MSD-2400 Fuel injector plug replacement kit (includes (8) Plugs and (16) connectors/clips, but only need ½ for our 4cyl) $13.88
- 8” of ¼” Heat shrink tubing

Tools Needed:
- Wire Cutters / Stripper
- Needlenose pliers
- Solder Gun / Solder (optional)

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(these are the parts for a single injector: Plastic Plug, (2) clips, rubber isolator)

Procedure:
1. Disconnect the (-) terminal of the battery and depressurize fuel system.
2. Disconnect all OEM injector plugs by first prying the retaining clip partially off and then removing with needlenose pliers.
3. Pry back the OEM rubber boot and cut wires at the back of the plug (note orientation of the wires, the light wire is always on the passenger side and the dark wire is always on the drivers side)
4. Carefully slit the black plastic wire casing 4” (do not strip the wire at this point) and trim casing so both wires are fully exposed.
5. Place 2” of the shrink wrap over the wires and push back onto the remaining OEM black plastic casing.
6. Strip ¼” off the ends of both wires and twist.
7. Push the two wires thru the rubber retainer at the back of the plug (remember light wire on passenger side and metal clip of new plug should be on top) as far as will go. Do not remove the metal retaining clip on the new plug.

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(note I pulled the plastic part of the plug back off at this point to strip the wires leaving the rubber isolator on the wires)

8. Prep the (8) metal plug clips with needlenose pliers by “shaping” the small “fingers” so can more easily crimp when the time comes.

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(top is "unprepped", bottom is "prepped")

9. Place one of the clips over one of the wires making sure the orientation is correct and carefully crimp the (6) small “fingers” over the exposed wires. The (2) large fingers at the back get crimped onto the non-exposed wire’s casing.
10. *Optional* solder the crimped fingers to ensure maximum retention of wire *

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11. Make sure the clips are properly oriented w.r.t. to the plastic plug and the carefully push the clips (do not pull the wires from the back) into the plastic plug until an audible “click“ is heard (clip should be flush with plug).

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(note clip is on top and light colored wire is on the left side)

12. Pull shrink wrap up from the OEM plastic casing to but up to the back of the new injector plug therby covering the exposed wires and heat-to-shrink. *
13. Plug completed injector plug onto injector until an audible “click” is heard.
14. Repeat for other (3) injectors.
15. Make sure there is some slack in the wires leading from the harness to the injector plugs so there is no tension.

* Note that the use of open flame or heat in and around the fuel line / injectors should be done with extreme care / caution. I covered the area I was working on with non-flammable material to catch any solder that dripped off my work. If you have any doubts about the above or do not feel comfortable performing, please take it to a professional.
 
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