removing tial gate from o2

[Dert]

Is there a special trick to getting a Tial mvs wastegate off of the o2 housing?? I had to pull my manifold and turbo to get at my wastegate, I removed the vband clamps, beat the piss out of it with a rubber hammer, pulled, pryed, I've tried everything, its almost as if the stupid thing is welded onto the housing. I am trying to get it off to resolve this sudden loss of boost issue I am having. I blt'd about 20 times, no leaks, no exhaust leaks, tried running straight wastegate pressure, wont build boost, take all boost source lines off and it builds boost fine, I am out of ideas as to why I'm not getting boost, hense trying to take the gate off to visually see if it is seating properly, but it wont budge off the o2 housing, any info greatly appreciated as I am at the point where I am going to say screw it and sell damn thing.

 

[1997_GSX]

What port are you using on the wg? side to top?

 

[gofer]

I went through your mods list Gary and didn't see a "cat delete dp" or "race/test pipe" mentioned. If you still have a catalytic converter on there it could be blocked, which would keep you from building boost believe it or not. Rather than replacing the cat (if you've got one) just drop the dp before it bolts up to the catalytic converter and go for a drive. If you can build boost again with your Tial MVS hooked up properly then you'll want to replace the cat.

...I know it has nothing to do with removing the Tial but I know this is why you're trying to take the thing off in the first place. Hopefully you've got a catalytic converter, that way you've got one more thing to troubleshoot before the wastegate.

 

[jjrock5]

DO NOT pull it off the housing. I pulled mine off to ceramic coat the housing and took HOURS to put it back on.

 

[Dert]

I went through your mods list Gary and didn't see a "cat delete dp" or "race/test pipe" mentioned. If you still have a catalytic converter on there it could be blocked, which would keep you from building boost believe it or not. Rather than replacing the cat (if you've got one) just drop the dp before it bolts up to the catalytic converter and go for a drive. If you can build boost again with your Tial MVS hooked up properly then you'll want to replace the cat.

...I know it has nothing to do with removing the Tial but I know this is why you're trying to take the thing off in the first place. Hopefully you've got a catalytic converter, that way you've got one more thing to troubleshoot before the wastegate.

Thanx Corey,I updated my profile to mention I have no cat for future reference, I tried unbolting the downpipe and going for a drive, same result, no boost, I have the turbo pulled right now, going to try new gaskets in hopes that I missed and exhaust leak, RTV the shit out of the BOV flange as thats the only small leak, as far as the wastegate hookup goes, I figured its hooked up right because I was building boost no problem before. I have a hose going from Comp housing to side port of gate, all other ports blocked off, top is left open, that is correct is it not? I now need to get a stud extractor as I broke 1 stud off in the head when removing the manifold, this is turning into a headache real fast, too bad there wasnt a dsm scene here where I could get some help, I can gaurantee that I'm the only guy in this city of 100,000 people that owns a modded dsm

Jrock, thanx for the info, I decided that myself after an hr of battling trying to get it off I thought, if its this hard to get off how am I going to get it back on??

thanx for your help guys, I will keep you posted-Gary

 

[viperlp01]

What you can do is give the side port pressure from an air tank or compressor(regulate pressure to under 50psi) and it should slam open(hear it pop open) and when you release the pressure hear it slam shut. When it slams shut it should make a metal to metal contact noise. If no noise then the valve might not be sealing against the fire ring.

 

[Dert]

What you can do is give the side port pressure from an air tank or compressor(regulate pressure to under 50psi) and it should slam open(hear it pop open) and when you release the pressure hear it slam shut. When it slams shut it should make a metal to metal contact noise. If no noise then the valve might not be sealing against the fire ring.

Thanx, I tried that, it doesnt make a "slam" sound, it more sounds like it slowly opens and close, thats giving it a blast at 25 psi, i will see if I can get a quick video on my phone and post it.

edit: I just soaked the tial down with soapy water and gave it a blast, it leaks like crazy, i dont know if its supposed to, I'll link a video shortly

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YSa5_husOoo is air supposed to leak out of there?

 

[Dert]

Ok, I am pretty sure I have gotten to my "no boost" issue, after inspecting the wastegate some more I turned the compressor down from 20psi, to where the needle is barely off the 0, so basically 1 or 2 psi of pressure. I hooked it up to the wastegate, and watched as the valve on the barely 400 mile gate opened. So basically this would indicate that as soon as the turbo generates any kind of boost the gate is opening and dumping it all is it not? Keep in mind this brand new wastegate has a 17psi spring in it, so it should not be opening untill then if my knowledge is correct. Anybody able to chime in an correct me if I'm wrong? As far as I'm concerned I now own a $600 paperweight...not too thrilled...

 

[dragonov_elite]

Call tial and see if they carry a manufacture warranty. How old is the gate? A friend of mine had his tial wastegate have a bad diaphragm in it that caused some really weird boost issues. Just a thought.

 

[Dert]

Call tial and see if they carry a manufacture warranty. How old is the gate? A friend of mine had his tial wastegate have a bad diaphragm in it that caused some really weird boost issues. Just a thought.

I bought it from punishment, back in early march, has only been on the car for about 400 miles, I popped the top off tonight and the springs look cooked, the paint is pretty much melted off I cant tell the colors, maybe maroon and beige or maroon and copper? hard to say, regardless the springs are extremely flimsy and can be compressed together by a baby if it was holding them I am convinced this is what my issue is

 

[dragonov_elite]

If I where in your place I would check to see how the springs became "cooked" first (diaphram, seals, or bad valve). Once that is figured out I would buy new springs from Tial if the WG is in good condition.

 

[pantherballhp]

if you bought it in early march surely you'd have some sort of warranty

 

[Dert]

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here is a pic of the 2 springs, I don't know maybe they look ok, but they are for sure really "weak" feeling. If I blast 25 psi into the gate from a compressor, the valve should "snap" open and shut should it not? it opens quickly but when it closes, it is almost as if it "falls" back down to the seat under its own weight, like the springs don't have the resistance to snap it closed quickly. They are so weak that after removing all the screws from the top of the gate you would think if you wern't holding onto it , it would "pop" open from the springs...not the case, there was 0 resistance and I had no effort holding and no need for a clamp to hold it together to get the screws back in, wich is a for sure sign of shot springs.

 

[Dert]

Punishment sent new springs, boosting normal again, thanx to all who replied