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Removing turbine housing from hx35

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WIDSM

15+ Year Contributor
245
0
Feb 4, 2006
milwaukee, Wisconsin
Well I'm having trouble removing the factory turbine housing. I took 3 bolts off and the one is as loose as it will go before hitting the oil flange. I smacked is a bunch with a mallet and tried pulling it apart every which way but it won't budge. It looks a little rusty, could that be what's keeping me up or am I just completely missing something here? On my bep housing it looks like it just sits on the center section held on by the bolts.
 
It's just rusty as hell.

Last weekend I had the most difficult time ever getting a turbine housing off, and it happened to be a HX35 that I was rebuilding. I ended up scraping as much scaly rust as possible from around the groove where the turbine housing meets the center housing, and from there it was as simple as hitting the turbine housing downward with a small sledge while holding the compressor cover with my other hand until it dropped.

Be sure to alternate corners of the turbine housing as you're driving it downward or you'll wedge it and it will never come off.

It wasn't easy, and a spare set of hands would've helped....but they also might've gotten in the way.
 
Take two deep well 1/4 inch drive sockets, preferably of smaller size (8 mm). Put one on each side of the turbine housing between the bolt and compressor cover. Then simply start to loosen the bolts and it will spred the turbine housing and compressor housing apart.

Took me about 3 minutes with this method. I at first took all the bolts off and soaked the shit out of the turbine housing in PB Blaster and beat it with a hammer for a bit, didn't budge. Then did this method and it was stupid easy.
 
Take two deep well 1/4 inch drive sockets, preferably of smaller size (8 mm). Put one on each side of the turbine housing between the bolt and compressor cover. Then simply start to loosen the bolts and it will spred the turbine housing and compressor housing apart.

Took me about 3 minutes with this method. I at first took all the bolts off and soaked the shit out of the turbine housing in PB Blaster and beat it with a hammer for a bit, didn't budge. Then did this method and it was stupid easy.

Hey thanks I tried it like you said and it worked great. Trying to beat it off didn't work at all.
 
Does anyone got any tips on taking the compressor cover off too. I got the snap ring out and I beat on it for a while but no luck.
 
If the snap ring is out, the hard part is actually over. Sometimes the steel snap ring will literally gall itself into the groove in the aluminum cover, making removal downright impossible. Thankfully Holset puts tabs on the snap ring to aid in getting it out of the groove using Channellock pliers so you don't break the tips off of every set of snap ring pliers you own.

From here it's as simple as driving the compressor cover off by tapping it from the backside with equal hits around the radius. There's nothing left holding it on but corrosion....but if the cover starts to come off on an angle as you're driving it downward it will rip the fins off the compressor wheel, so be careful!
 
WOW........... I have my 7 blade HX-35 dis-assembled and didn't have a problem with the compressor cover or turbine housing.

The compressor cover came right off with-out a single tap or anything once I removed the behemoth snap ring.

The turbine housing tapped straight off with a small dead-blow hammer. I didn't use penetrating oil or anything.

Granted it was REALLY clean and of fairly low mileage............... Maybe I got lucky.

I know that it was never dis-assembled prior to me getting it.

Well, With that being said, I'm just that much happier that I picked up my HX-35.

Now I just have to finish polishing the compressor cover and ceramic coating my turbine housing. :thumb:
 
Yours was low-mileage and probably from a Dodge truck where the turbo is seperated from the wheel well.

Some of these HX35's come from medium-duty semis where the wheel is free to splash road salt and grime all over the turbo, and the turbo itself is mounted lower on these trucks than the Dodge pickups so it's much more exposed to the elements.
 
^^^^^^^^^^ Ahhhh........... That makes sense Justin. I neglected to to recognize the issue of being application specific <----- On what vehicle the turbo originally came off of.

I know a few others had experienced problems with seperation issues with their Holsets, and was pleasantly surprised when mine went so well.

I was all ready too.................. Had the PB Blaster ready and all. :p
 
Well I tried the pb blaster and it still hasn't worked. I haven't gotten it off yet, but I'm going to let it sit over night and see how it is.
 
Well I tried the pb blaster and it still hasn't worked. I haven't gotten it off yet, but I'm going to let it sit over night and see how it is.

Can you see any corrosion or anything like that where the compressor cover meets with the back plate area of the chra?

If so maybe a small wire wheel on a dremel would help get in there and loosen it up so the PB Blaster can work it's way into the lip area where the 2 pieces meet.

I honestly am probably not much help here............... Like i said, mine was really clean and came apart with-out a fight..................... " Thank GOD " :pray:
 
Just tap it with a little sledge hammer evenly all the way around it will come off.
I have been hitting it with a mallet, I don't think I'm going to hit it with a sledge hammer though. I'll grab a bigger mallet at work and try that. Also the pb blaster soaked through the seam and came out the outlet so it can't be that bad.
 
Well after LOTS of pb blaster and using a big socket wrench pounding down on the compressor wheel bolt it finally popped out. There was a lot of corrosion on the comp cover.
 
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