Removing GST 5speed Transmission

[ElectroPanda]

Completely new to the dsm world. How do i remove a 96 Eclipse GST transmission along with the clutch and fly wheel? I'm installing a Rear Main Seal. Should i pull engine?

 

[erkitner]

Pull the engine. It'll make life so much simpler for you. If you know what you're doing, you can work slowly while drinking a cold beer and have the engine completely out in 4 hours. With 2 people who've done it multiple times, it can be out in less than 2 hours.

With the engine out, you can also correct any possible other issues, that you woudn't otherwise see with the engine in.

So pull it. It's FUN.

 

[Spoolin98]

Ill try and describe to the best of my ability.

#1 Remove everything around the transmission.
Upper intercooler pipe, remove battery, unbolt starter, take the shifter cables off transmission, unclip the 2 sensors on the transmission (one under the intake and one by the rear trans mount), unbolt ground wire from transmission.

#2 Drain the radiator, remove the upper rad hose from the thermostat housing only. I do this so I don’t crack the stock plastic radiator. The lower hose should be good to leave on.

#3 Drain the transmission - 24mm bolt on passenger side of transmission facing the wheel.

#4 Take apart suspension. Unbolt tie rod and upper control arm. Remove caliper from brakes and move to the side. This gives you the ability to pop the axle out of the trans and pull it out of your way. Do this to both sides. Put pry bar between axle and trans and pry axle out. Once the axels are out of the way...

#5 Take the single bolt out of the front roller motor mount. Then climb under the car and remove the support bar that runs directly under the motor. Its 2 large bolts under the bumper cover, and several smaller bolts under the power steering rack. You can now remove the front roller mount along with the support beam.

#6 Next take the single bolt out of the rear roller motor mount. What I do next is simply for ease of removal. I unbolt the motor mount from the transmission. Not the mount on the subframe. There are 3 bolts holding the mount to the transmission. 2 that you can get from above and one from under the car. Then lift that mount out of the way. That mount always gets hung up on the subframe or subframe motor mount and makes the job more difficult.

#7 Remove the bolts holding the transmission to the block. There should be four bolts. 2 at the top of the transmission right under the thermostat housing and CAS. One by the front roller mount and one by the rear roller mount (this one I’m not 100% sure of since I have a 6 bolt swap). Look for bolts with red paint on them. Remove the inspection plate from the transmission, its by the oil pan.

#8 Now that you have 2 of the 3 mounts removed you can move on to the last mount. That’s the passenger side large motor mount on top of the trans. Get a piece of wood large enough to cover your oil pan and get a jack under the oil pan. The purpose of this is so you do not dent your oil pan. Be very careful when doing this, make sure the wood is strong enough and long enough to hold the motor up without denting the pan in towards the oil pick up. Now grab a 1/2" ratchet, 12" extension with a 17mm socket, or better yet an air gun or electric impact. There are 4 or 5 nuts connecting the mount on the transmission to the mount bolted to the frame of the car. You’re going to leave the mount bolted to the frame and remove the nuts. Once you remove the nuts you will start to see the transmission fall. Once all the nuts are out you can SLOWLY lower the jack while watching to make sure nothing is getting caught/binded up. A second set of eyes comes in really handy at this point!

#9 Start to work the transmission off the block. Get a large pry bar or screw driver and work the trans off slowly. I usually lay on my back and start where the inspection cover used to be. I go back and forth from one side to the other and separate the transmission from the block while being careful not to damage anything. At this point you have to be very careful, 2 people are not a must but definitely a lot easier. Once the transmission is about an inch or two off the block one person lay on their back and the other hug the transmission from the top and slowly work it off together. When I pull the transmission by myself I put a mattress topper folded up several time under the trans. I then work at it from the top and when it falls, it falls on the thick pad of foam.

#10 Now that the transmission is out. Remove the bolts from the pressure plate slowly. A few turns at a time, switching bolts as you go. In other words dont take one bolt completely out at a time. Once the bolts are out a little tug on the pressure plate and it should pop off along with the clutch disk.

#11 As for the flywheel I HIGHLY suggest having a STRONG impact gun. I use my electric impact gun. Get the correct size socket and blast the 7 bolts holding the flywheel on out. I also highly suggest buying the 12 point ARP flywheel bolts at this point for reinstalling your new flywheel. They are stronger, 12 points, and won’t strip as easy. You may notice that you damage your stock flywheel bolts when you remove them. If you don’t have an impact gun you must put a 1/2” ratchet in the crank sprocket and have someone keep the motor from turning while you remove the flywheel bolts.

#12 You now have access to the rear main seal
If you think this is more work than pulling the motor, it’s not. Pulling the motor consists of disconnecting A LOT more stuff.

While the trans is out replace the axle seals, they are a pain to do while in the car.
Also please take note that I may have forgotten small things here or there. Take your time and look around the engine bay and make sure everything is disconnected and out of your way before attempting the next step.
I hope this helps, feel free to ask questions...

 

[ElectroPanda]

Amazing information. I am starting tomorrow. I have a six bolt swap as well. Monday shall be fun But i love working on cars and saving money for labor at a shop! Thanks for the info

 

[mantega4g63]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGDw73GoIeE&list=PL4B97C16D423317DD&index=1]Trans & Clutch 1 - Remove Transmission - YouTube[/ame]

i swear transmission is easier, removing the motor is the LAST thing you want to do without much experience because that's how all kind of stuff doesn't get hooked back up right. transmission is just bolts, mounts, and 2 or 3 sensors

a few steps in spoolin's post about suspension aren't necessary, all i did was separate the strut fork from the lateral arm and the lateral arm from the hub and was able to get the axle out with ease, no need to touch the uca or calipers/rotors but both work of course, good to know in case you get a seized axle or something (which most people have)

 

[Alucards_blood]

The link is for AWD but it should pretty much cover everything you need to do. It worked great when I did my clutch and flywheel.

Visual Frequently Answered Questions - Home Page

>Drivtrain
>2G AWD Clutch install

 

[Spoolin98]

Yes there are several different methods for getting the axle out. I just choose that method because I find it easier to remove those bolts and nuts.

As for pulling the whole motor, I agree, way more of a pain in the butt. Especially in a 2g. I find pulling a 1g motor way easier.

To the OP, since you have a six bolt swap there should still be 4 bolts holding the transmission to the block. Some people only use the 3 large bolts going through the transmission into the block. The 4th one goes through the block into the transmission and is smaller in diameter then the rest.

The 3 big ones should be:
2 at the the top of the bell housing right under the thermostat and cas
1 at the front of the bell housing by the front roller mount
The last (may not be installed) you have to climb under the car and look at the back of the block (firewall side), there should be a small bolt going through the block and into the transmission.
I believe the 3 larger bolts are 14mm and the small one is 12mm.

Hope this helps
Like I previously said, take your time and pay attention. Especially when lowering the motor to get the trans out. There are tons of things that can caught up.
Good Luck!

 

[ElectroPanda]

Thanks man! I'll need it.. Maybe I have experience with Chevrolet SBC and the 6g72. Shouldn't be bad at all. I'm leaving the engine in and using your methods.

 

[Spoolin98]

Thanks man! I'll need it.. Maybe I have experience with Chevrolet SBC and the 6g72. Shouldn't be bad at all. I'm leaving the engine in and using your methods.

How did it go? You never posted back!