Recommended Oil For New Motor?

[TSIkw]

I got a stock SBR 6 bolt a few weeks ago and its just about broke in now. I was wondering what oil everyone recommends using on the new motor after break in.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Just depends on what you are using it for. I ran my car for a few thousand miles on just plain Valvoline 10w-30 then switched to Amsoil after that. Amsoil, Castrol Sytec, or Mobil1 are going to be your 3 choices. That is about all anyone on this site lives by. And 75% of them use Mobil1. For you light mods regular oil would be fine.

 

[project_tsi]

10-w30. No synthetic or semi synthetic crapola.

Brand is all up to you. Basically with oil standards these days, all oil in its category is made the same. I run quaker state, just b/c thats what I have always used. Quaker state, Valvoline, Penzoil, Mobil, etc. all can be used.

 

[TSIkw]

Why don't you like the synthetic project tsi. I haven't used it during break in but i was thinking about using either Castrol Syntec or Mobil 1 once its done breaking in.

Also, i decent amount of mods now and will be doing many more. Everything i have done is listed in my profile.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

10-w30. No synthetic or semi synthetic crapola.

Brand is all up to you. Basically with oil standards these days, all oil in its category is made the same. I run quaker state, just b/c thats what I have always used. Quaker state, Valvoline, Penzoil, Mobil, etc. all can be used.

Ok not to get off topic but is there a specific reason why you say dont use synthetic in his new motor? Or is that your personal opinion? And now to awnser TSIkw's question, I use mobil 1and it is great, I would recommend it.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

You never use synthetic oil to break in a motor. Manufacturers recommend against using synthetics during your engine break-in period. This, because these oils are too slippery and normal break-in wear would not take place as quickly as without them. I would just stay with regular oil for now and save the money. I didn't switch to Amsoil until I got HEAVY mods and started getting black oil after about 1000 miles.

And if you really get bored...http://www.performanceoiltechnology.com/convertingtoamsoil.htm

 

[project_tsi]

Ok not to get off topic but is there a specific reason why you say dont use synthetic in his new motor? Or is that your personal opinion? And now to awnser TSIkw's question, I use mobil 1and it is great, I would recommend it.

I'd rather not search for threads and info right now, but I will not run synthetic oil in a turbo car. I've personally seen a few turbo failures as a result of running it. Conventional motor oil has proven itself reliable over and over again for many years.

Also, I'd like to point out that the new oils that state you can run 5,000, 7,500, or 15,000 miles between changes are not worth it either. These oils are designed to protect from oil viscosity breakdown for there rated mileage. However, generally, people don't change oil due to breakdown, they change it b/c it's dirty. Any conventional motor oil can easily go 5-6k miles before ever breaking down, but no oil will stay clean that long. In fact, oil and auto manufacturers recommended oil changes every 6k miles for the longest time. It has only been in the past 10 years of so they have since changed to 3k miles for the recommended intervals due to the contamination of the oil.

Oil breakdown isn't generally a problem at 6k miles even w/ conventional oil, its contamination. And the new 5, 7.5, and 15k mile oils won't protect from the contamination either.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

I agree completely. Only reason I run synthetic in a turbo car is because of it's ability to protect against heat. The oil in our cars isn't exactly running the coolest temps. and even with a good aftermarket oil cooler, on some long hard pulls that oil will heat up a good amount and speed up the breakdown process. And yes turbo's can fail from it if they are getting worn because synthetic oil is thinner than regular oil and can just go right by seals and things of that sort.

 

[TSIkw]

Thanks for the insight. I will keep using conventional oil then. i'll just switch to 10-30 after break in since i'm using 20-50 now as SBR recommended.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Are you sure they recommeneded 20-50? In the time I worked at the machine shop back home I build about 187 motors. Around 100 of them were high performance motor's for circle track and never once did we use anything but 10w-30 to break them in. Thicker oil won't reach the bearings as fast on initial startup which will cause a lot of damage in that extra 1-2 seconds it takes to start flowing. I would never use anything but 10w 30 or 5w 30 to break in a new motor. ESPECIALLY this time of year in New York. That oil won't flow very well at all.

 

[TSIkw]

Thats what the instructions said that came with the motor. They said the thicker oil will lubricate it better and help everything seat properly.

This is my first break in so i just took their word on it.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Maybe in AZ I would try it but in New York at this time of year I would highly recommend getting that wieght out and using something lighter. You want to use a light of an oil as possible because unlike the old days, honing stones are getting VERY fine. Finer honing is leading to needing a thinner oil on the walls to get the rings to seat properly and faster. If it was honed with something nice and rough then a little heavier oil would be ok but I am better SBR used a pretty fine stone when they did it and with that thick of oil you could do a little bearing damage and it will take longer for the rings to seat.

 

[TSIkw]

I've driven it about 600 miles already and changed the oil at 500. If you really think its that important i'll take your word and switch to 10-30 this weekend. You think its fine to use the same filter since i only have 100 miles on it or should that be changed to.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

I'd rather not search for threads and info right now, but I will not run synthetic oil in a turbo car. I've personally seen a few turbo failures as a result of running it. Conventional motor oil has proven itself reliable over and over again for many years.

Also, I'd like to point out that the new oils that state you can run 5,000, 7,500, or 15,000 miles between changes are not worth it either. These oils are designed to protect from oil viscosity breakdown for there rated mileage. However, generally, people don't change oil due to breakdown, they change it b/c it's dirty. Any conventional motor oil can easily go 5-6k miles before ever breaking down, but no oil will stay clean that long. In fact, oil and auto manufacturers recommended oil changes every 6k miles for the longest time. It has only been in the past 10 years of so they have since changed to 3k miles for the recommended intervals due to the contamination of the oil.

Oil breakdown isn't generally a problem at 6k miles even w/ conventional oil, its contamination. And the new 5, 7.5, and 15k mile oils won't protect from the contamination either.

Well that awnsers my question, well good to know for when I get a new engine dropped in mine from ffwdconnection.And thanks 95GsTurbo, i know you are awnswering TSIkw but it defineatly helps me, perhaps Ill switch to reg 10w-30 and get an oil cooler, instead of the synthetic.

 

[Slowboy]

Are you sure they recommeneded 20-50? In the time I worked at the machine shop back home I build about 187 motors. Around 100 of them were high performance motor's for circle track and never once did we use anything but 10w-30 to break them in. Thicker oil won't reach the bearings as fast on initial startup which will cause a lot of damage in that extra 1-2 seconds it takes to start flowing. I would never use anything but 10w 30 or 5w 30 to break in a new motor. ESPECIALLY this time of year in New York. That oil won't flow very well at all.

Yes, bearing clearance dictates what oil should be used.

We use 20W 50 in all of our race motors, all season long.. this year for the methanol motor we will be using straight 50 weight.

If you use synthetic oil in one of our motors, your asking for trouble.... its more similar to water than oil IMHO.

Mike Huml

 

[TSIkw]

Mike,

I'll keep running conventional oil in it but is the 20-50 ok or should i use a thinner oil for my set up...since it's a stock 6 bolt. It does start pretty hard...usually takes a couple tries before it fires.

 

[fastlaser90]

So royal purple 10W30 is no good? I thought i was doing my car a favor by using it.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

So royal purple 10W30 is no good? I thought i was doing my car a favor by using it.

Mike is refering to thier motors. They build them with specific clearences so you use specific wieght oils.

 

[fastlaser90]

Thanks for the clarification. So I'm okay on stock internals?

 

[Slowboy]

Mike,

I'll keep running conventional oil in it but is the 20-50 ok or should i use a thinner oil for my set up...since it's a stock 6 bolt. It does start pretty hard...usually takes a couple tries before it fires.

Yes, you can use 10w 30 if your having hard start problems, especially on a stock rebuild... I assume its cold there as well

Spring, we need spring to come... no comments from guys in warm climate are welcome

Mike Huml

 

[TSIkw]

Thanks for the help guys. It's always appreciated

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Yeah that's too bad...I went and got the mail in my boxers today...bit chilly out. Almost had to put pants on. But getting back to the subject. Royal Purple 10w 30 will be fine for your stock motor. It may even help seal up some oil leaks and add some much needed additives and detergents.

 

[fastlaser90]

Sounds good, thought I was wasting my hard earned money. THanks for the insight. Now I can try to get the laser to run properly, I don't know whats wrong with it this time.........

 

[TSIkw]

its a solid 25 degrees today...feels like 11 with the 30mph wind gusts. not to shabby since i love to ski and will be doing it all weekend

 

[Slowboy]

Yeah that's too bad...I went and got the mail in my boxers today...bit chilly out. Almost had to put pants on. But getting back to the subject. Royal Purple 10w 30 will be fine for your stock motor. It may even help seal up some oil leaks and add some much needed additives and detergents.

Thats not funny

Mike Huml