grey oil new motor

[brandonclum]

ok guys fresh rebuild. i started the car for the first time since i rebuilt the bottom end and the main seal is leaking thats not the issue the issue is when i look at the color of the oil it is grey! My first though was coolent but remembered i just start tested it 2min tops running then off there is no coolent in the block or head its been in parts since early last spring. what can this be? I hope its not shavings I wanted to post a pic but my camera doesnt pic up the color could it be gas seeping through the new rings or the break in white assembely lube i used on the bearings and rod ends?

 

[My1GLaser]

Does it have a metallic sheen? I drain my oil into an open top drain pan and let it sit for 30 min to an hour. Then pour most of the oil out and see what it looks like on the bottom.

 

[EGLTAWLN]

is it shiny silvery grey? what kind of bearings did you use?
i had this once and it was the new aluminum bearings i installed slowly grinding away...

 

[little-razcal]

Normal. You are more than likely seeing the assembly lube, ARP moly, and the leftover machining debree. You will more than likely see gitter in the oil also.

My oil was greenish/gray the first change on the last few motors I had in. You should change the oil frequently in the first 100 miles.. I do warm-up, break-in, 50 miles, 100 miles, 250 miles, and 500 miles... You may think this is a bit much, but I'm anal.

Just watch it closely. You should see a big difference on the 2nd change.

 

[90tsi6bolt]

I'm going to agree with the last post it's possibly from assembly lube with moly in it, as long as the doesn't look metallic.

 

[little-razcal]

I'm going to agree with the last post it's possibly from assembly lube with moly in it, as long as the doesn't look metallic.

It can, and more than likely will have a metallic shean to it from the honing process, and/or rings breaking in the cylinders. The particals will be very very fine however.

 

[WRXkiller92]

My first oil change was similar, not grey, but almost a silvery oil color, it was metal shavings and assembly lube/arp lube. I put a magnetic drain plug in to help and second change looked much better

 

[brandonclum]

Ok thanks guys after thinking about it and contacting a few friends they say the same. Just wish my mains sealed correctly is there a way to change them with out pulling the motor again...? O and sorry for the crap grammar on this post for whom ever had a issue.

 

[boost97gst]

Metal sheen coming out is normal. The rings ARE new afterall, and all the moly lube/assemly grease makes the oil look funny for the first couple changes.

 

[curt-s]

Ok thanks guys after thinking about it and contacting a few friends they say the same. Just wish my mains sealed correctly is there a way to change them with out pulling the motor again...? O and sorry for the crap grammar on this post for whom ever had a issue.

You should just need to pull the transmission, pp, clutch disc, flywheel, or alternatively the auto transmission components (flex plate et al), and you'll be able to get at the rear main seal. If you want a proper seal from oil pan to seal housing, you'll need to drop the oil pan and redo the RTV on it all the way around.

Was the seal new? Do you have a noticeable gouge all the way around the crank seal surface so that it's not sealing up properly? Did you overtorque the bolts and crack the seal housing? I guess those questions will be answered when you do the work. Good luck.

 

[brandonclum]

Ya going to just redo all the seals. quick question is it possible to change the front main seal/oil pump without pulling the motor and yes they were all new seals. gonna pull the tranny this weekend and the oil pump lets hope this stops the leaks so i can drive this car,I got the car last may and ripped the motor out and rebuilt it while still buying performance parts for it I still have no idea if the auto trans is any good....

 

[boost97gst]

Thats a snug fit in there. But im a guy who will pull the engine to do a timing belt . Its just too easy to pull these suckers to struggle with the tight spaces. That is, if you have the proper equipment.

 

[little-razcal]

Ya going to just redo all the seals. quick question is it possible to change the front main seal/oil pump without pulling the motor and yes they were all new seals. gonna pull the tranny this weekend and the oil pump lets hope this stops the leaks so i can drive this car,I got the car last may and ripped the motor out and rebuilt it while still buying performance parts for it I still have no idea if the auto trans is any good....

Absolutely.. You will need to remove quite a bit of parts before the front case can come off, but you definitly can do it in the car still. Your going to need to drop the oil pan to give the pick-up enough clearance to come out since it's attached to the pump.