Rebuilding the bottom end. Can anyone give me some ideas?

[vteckiller92tsi]

I need some help on the bottom end rebuild. I need to know if it is better to use custom 1g rods with 2g pistons? Or to use standard oem pistons? I know that the 2g pistons will give me 8:5:1 compression where the oem only gives you 7:8:1 compression. But has anyone in here done this did it cause any trouble? And i would also like to know is the balance shaft eliminator kit.Is a good purchase and if it is a pain in the butt with the motor out.And by the way this is a 91 eagle talon tsi bone stock! Everyones input helps thanks.

 

[2GFWDbeast]

depending on how much power you are wanting to make will make this easier?

 

[vteckiller92tsi]

I want decent power not to much that i have to use racing gas. Just enough to be suprising. I would love to have alot more but my wallet says i can't.And as wallet i meen wife .

 

[2GFWDbeast]

id definitely go with the 2g pistons and 1g big rods with arp rod bolts. Easily be suitable for 400hp with a good tune

 

[Devilman]

i agree with whats said above 2g or evo9 pistons are good enough with 1g rods with arp bolts for 400 to 450. pretty much anything youd want to do on pump gas with a street turbo. good luck

 

[vteckiller92tsi]

Ok that sound good. And a yes to the balance shaft eliminator also?

 

[2GFWDbeast]

yes get the balance shaft eliminator kit

 

[vteckiller92tsi]

Ok guys thank both of you for your time.

 

[goodbuds]

thats what my wallet (wife) let me spend. 1g rods and npr pistons (2G)... good combo for high hp 400+.

 

[BobG]

Yes - just replaced the block with a similar target in mind. *DO* the balance shaft elimination kit. Failure of the front shaft bearings at 126K was the reason I was forced to swap out the block.

According to my calculations, 8.5:1 was about as high as I wanted to go and not have to constantly feed it a special fuel diet.

Also, look carefully at the two bolt holes facing the driver towards the front of the block where the left axle and AC compressor bolt onto the bottom of the block. The front bolt was broken off on the old block, and BOTH had broken off bolts inside them on the replacement block. MUCH easier to deal with this BEFORE the engine goes back in the car. (I didn't notice that in time, assumed new block $2Khad no problems = wrong!)

You'll of course also find other things you'll want to do while it is apart such as:
Heftier clutch?
Cams/springs? (I did just the springs so I can do the cams later without pulling the head again.)
Motor mounts?
Replace hard to access rubber - like that hose behind the exhaust manifold.
Etc., etc.

Have fun!

 

[jimbob_843]

Be sure to get the delete kit with the oem stub. It has the oil groove in it unlike others which have been known to lock up. thedsmgraveyard.com has a good kit for a good price.

 

[olddsmer]

Be sure to use ARP rod bolts. Have the machine shop shotpeen your rods. You should probably use a new oil pump assy and water pump while you are at it.
Parts Dinosaur is fairly priced for a budget rebuild. They have about all the parts you will need including piston and ring packages.

Regards
Greg

 

[donniekak]

If you are not planning on buying a tuning solution that can alter the timing map, 8.5:1 compression can have some issues on a stock 1g timing map, that is aggressively tuned for a low 7.8:1 ratio.