420A Rebuilding/Cleaning everything in my engine (Progress)

[Sws]

We just started today, I will edit my first post so you guys don't have to search through pages to find updates.
Beginning:

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[jayson427]

what are your plans for the rebuild? just stock or what? and those cams dont look that bad, i know mine looked about the same when i tore mine down. i had 169,000 miles on them too. outside of the car looks clean tho.

 

[born2tune]

good luck on it. a good tip is to take tons of pictures of all different angles while you are disassembling it. this will help you when re installing stuff back together.
sometimes you wont be sure what goes here and how.

also rules out parts that may have been installed a certain way or angle during installation, or for areas that just didn't have a part at all, and when putting it all together you will remember if it had it or not to begin with.

 

[grothe3297venge]

On what planet? Machine work is more than that alone.

Depends on what machine work he needs done.

OP - cams don't look to bad, but what all are you doing? Valve cover, head gasket, manifold, or what??

 

[Sws]

Depends on what machine work he needs done.

OP - cams don't look to bad, but what all are you doing? Valve cover, head gasket, manifold, or what??

I'm not sure what you mean by "doing".

 

[grothe3297venge]

I'm not sure what you mean by "doing".

Lol, you have the valve cover off so obviously that. I'm asking what all are you doing as in, why did you take the VC off, the exhaust manifold off, and etc. like what are your goals of doing all this?!?

 

[Sws]

Lol, you have the valve cover off so obviously that. I'm asking what all are you doing as in, why did you take the VC off, the exhaust manifold off, and etc. like what are your goals of doing all this?!?

There's a knock in the engine so we need to replace some internals.

 

[Sebba]

There's a knock in the engine so we need to replace some internals.

Me and my dad are doing all of the labor.

Are you doing the machine work and assembly too?

 

[Sws]

Are you doing the machine work and assembly too?

There's not much machine work in what we're doing but we're doing all of the assembly and everything, yes. My dad works at a body shop and is really good friends with the owner so we have free reign over everything there.

 

[grothe3297venge]

So you just doing a stock rebuild then or building your block while you have it out??

 

[Sws]

So you just doing a stock rebuild then or building your block while you have it out??

I think just a stock rebuild.

 

[JusMX141]

Just deleted 19 posts of off-topic horse shit from this thread. Please follow the site rules and stay on topic WITHOUT bickering non-stop about stuff that doesn't even apply to the matter at hand.

 

[Sws]

Just deleted 19 posts of off-topic horse shit from this thread. Please follow the site rules and stay on topic WITHOUT bickering non-stop about stuff that doesn't even apply to the matter at hand.

I'm sorry, thank you.

 

[JusMX141]

Here's a couple key points:

- The inside of the engine appears to be dirty as hell. This generally means the car wasn't well cared-for, or the previous owner(s) used the shittiest oil they could get their hands on which created a ton of film and sludge as a byproduct of combustion. You don't get this mess inside the engine with synthetic or diesel-grade oils.

- The film is also likely to be found inside all of the oil supply passages in the engine, and is also likely to be what caused your engine noise/failure.

- There's a pretty good chance the crankshaft is damaged as a result of the noise you're hearing. If it's bad enough, the rod and piston will need replaced on that journal as well....and chances are with that many miles and obvious poor maintenance the bores will not be straight.


Basically plan on boring the block, buying four new pistons, and a new or reman crank on top of getting the entire engine and cylinder head hot-tanked to get rid of that sludge.

Just to put things into perspective- a block hot tank, align-hone, and to hone all four cylinders cost a friend of mine $240 at a local machine shop a few months ago...and that was no boring or head work whatsoever.

To sum it all up, this shit ain't cheap.

 

[Sws]

Here's a couple key points:

- The inside of the engine appears to be dirty as hell. This generally means the car wasn't well cared-for, or the previous owner(s) used the shittiest oil they could get their hands on which created a ton of film and sludge as a byproduct of combustion. You don't get this mess inside the engine with synthetic or diesel-grade oils.

- The film is also likely to be found inside all of the oil supply passages in the engine, and is also likely to be what caused your engine noise/failure.

- There's a pretty good chance the crankshaft is damaged as a result of the noise you're hearing. If it's bad enough, the rod and piston will need replaced on that journal as well....and chances are with that many miles and obvious poor maintenance the bores will not be straight.


Basically plan on boring the block, buying four new pistons, and a new or reman crank on top of getting the entire engine and cylinder head hot-tanked to get rid of that sludge.

Just to put things into perspective- a block hot tank, align-hone, and to hone all four cylinders cost a friend of mine $240 at a local machine shop a few months ago...and that was no boring or head work whatsoever.

To sum it all up, this shit ain't cheap.

Yeah we plan on taking the engine completely apart, and hopefully within the next few days (whenever my dad has time to work on it) we'll know the problem. I'll let him know all this (he's the car guy, i'm just a helper) and see what he says.

 

[JusMX141]

Well it's OK to want to understand and learn, but there's not much you're going to do with an OEM rebuild that will add a significant amount of power.

At the risk of spending a pile of money to make the same power as a good used engine, you should check around and see what a good used engine may go for in your area. If you can get a good used engine with a warranty for $400, put a new timing belt and water pump on before it goes in (+/- $150), you'll be ahead of the game in both time and money spent.

 

[Sebba]

Not to mention the cylinder head. Metal shavings, high mileage valve seats, stem seals, etc.

16 valve seats at around $35 a piece, the cost of labor to freshen up and replace worn cylinder head items, etc. These things can't be done by a mechanic or your average wrencher.

I suspect you'll likely be skipping these crucial steps because you have no idea of the consequences. Then you're going to wonder what happened to your 'freshly rebuilt' motor.

Whatever.

 

[dalesmitsu]

Beisdes taking pictures, get into the habit of using markers and labeling zip lock bags for each bolt, bracket and part.

 

[NotSoSlow]

Good luck with your tear down piece of advice don't over torque or under torque your bolts make sure it's like warm soul and just right
Bad experience over torquing a valve cover bolt and having the hardest time getting to it with the extractor kit.
Dan