rebuild my 7bolt or buy a 6bolt?

[talonkid93]

I have a 93 talon tsi awd with and 7bolt that has 154k on it and has overheated once. I was wondering if i should rebuild it or buy a 6bolt. If i was going to rebuild the motor the only thing i would want aftermarket on the internals is a metal head gasket and ARP headstuds. Also i was wonder whats a list of all the parts to replace on the rebuild?

 

[Peepeeman]

Rebuild the 7bolt.

 

[stagen]

I'd say stick with the 7 unless you can find a 6 for cheap. You'll want to replace the main and rod bearings, suggest ACL Race Bearings, new OEM main cap bolts, new timing components, possibly an oil pump check yours for wear. Then of course a gasket set along with the parts you listed. Oh & possibaly new piston rings. Thats off the top of my head plus every engines needs are different.

 

[interex]

I too would recommend you rebuild your 7 bolt.

I am in the slow process of building a 7 bolt 2.4L Stroker for my 96 TSI AWD.
Parts are very expensive so the process is slow but I do recommend contacting Oliver at Slowboy Racing if you need anything. He's super nice, and works with anyone and does pretty good to match costs with other places.

 

[talonkid93]

I was also wondering should i go with doing all oem internals or do some aftermarket ones such as cams?

 

[DSM4me44]

I did a 6 bolt swap when my 7 bolt went. I am happy with my decision. To each his own.

 

[talonkid93]

Hi this is a list of the parts im ordering so far. Cometic metal head gasket, turbo gasket, exhaust gasket, exhaust manifold bolt kit, balance shaft eliminator kit, ARP head studs, ARP main studs, ARP conrod bolts, Eagle connecting rods, and Oem valves. If theres anything else that i should get that i missed please tell this is going to be my first engine rebuild that im doing on my own. Im gonna stick with my 2g exhaust manifold also and just have my 16g turbo rebuilt. I was also wondering if its necessary to replace the camshafts?

 

[Rabbi]

Oil Squirters are very cheap and i would suggest replacing them, 2 of mine were shot after 143K Miles.

 

[talonkid93]

Anything else? keep in mind this old motor has 154k on it and has overheated once

 

[DSM1G90]

154k - pah! just barely broke in!

As long as the block is in great shape, no cracks, crank and journals are okey, just hone out the bores, do a slight oversize and new crank beaings and you'll get another 154k out of it.

How did it overheat that one time anywhos? User error in preventive maintenance or just because?

Have to say for a motor to overheat "ONCE" really isn't that bad in that mileage lifetime (as long as it didn't take out the headgasket and warp a head or two..).

 

[talonkid93]

It overheated that one time do to the fact that the clamp on the coolant hose broke and coolant sprayed everywhere. And when it overheated it got to the red part on the temp gauge. Also just found a kit for 500$ with a complete gasket set, pistons and rings, main and rod bearings, thrust bearings, timing belt, balance shaft bearings, expansion plugs, and oil pump. Do you think i should replace the connecting rods or will they be ok?

 

[stagen]

Have the block and rods checked at a machine shop for cracks and imperfections. Unless your reaching for high power numbers the stock rods shold be just fine. Just have 'em checked out. ARP main and rod bolts aren't necessarily needed unless again your reaching for high power numbers. With ARP mains you have to have the block align honed, which you'd want to have an experienced shop do, plus its more money. New OEM main rod bolts will be good for most power goals. As for that $500 rebuild kit Im assuming its the topline brand correct? Look up reviews on the stuff, most dont like it, others havent had problems. Im goin with OEM stuff on my rebuild just to be on the safe side. For the BSE kit I'd get the OEM one. I can get you the part numbers you need for it, and it usally costs less than most kits do.

If you'd like I can put together a list of parts you should get for a complete rebuild (well minus head) that will basically leave you with a new motor.

 

[talonkid93]

that would be awsome man, please do.

 

[stagen]

What your gonna need for a rebuild:

~ OEM main bolts
~ OEM rod bolts (they'll have to be pressed in)
~ Full gasket set
~ Balance Shaft Eliminator kit (might as well since your in there)
OEM part #'s:
MD103722 Front Balance shaft bearing
MD040597 Rear Balance shaft bearing
MD092785 Balance shaft cap
MD098626 Balance shaft stub
MD128107 Balance shaft spacer
(The spacer is optional, it gets rid of the balance shaft sprocket on the crank, less rotating mass I guess)
~ Most would suggest a new oil pump/front case and new pump gears. I measured and inspected my old so I guess Im chancing it.
~ OEM timing components
OEM part #'s:
MD326059 Timing Belt
MD129355 Timing Belt Idler Pulley
MD156604 Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley
MD308586 Timing Belt Tensioner
~ ARP headstuds (might as well)
~ Main and rod bearings. I'd suggest ACL Race Bearings. From what I've read they're tri-metal and thats good. I actually picked mine up off Ebay for $100, not bad.
~ Piston rings and possibly pistons. I also found my pistons on Ebay. If you go on Slowboy and look OEM ones they actually use a brad called Nippon. I found the exact same ones on Ebay for $100 with rings compared to $200 at Slowboy.

Before you order the bearings or pistons(rings) take your block, crank, rods and pistons to the machine shop to be cleaned and inspected. You may end up needing oversized parts.

Check out this thread, it helped me along my engine build.

Along with all those hard parts, you'll also need various sealers, thread lockers, and all that jazz.

 

[talonkid93]

this is great thankyou