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Rebuild a 420a to turbo

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snoochi

Probationary Member
10
0
May 31, 2011
Bloomingdale, Illinois
Got my 420a with about 140xxx miles and since it had an oil leak i decided to rebuild engine, i would like to build the engine to handle about 20lb of boost.
I took the engine out recently and im gonna take the head to a shop to check it out.(I will post pictures if it will help)

I need help and advise from where i should go from here and parts I should go with.
 
Thank you for the link, it really makes it clear.

So i guess im on the right path, im look around for a shop tmrw to take head to.
Will it be necessary to bore the cylinders?
 
Thank you for the link, it really makes it clear.

So i guess im on the right path, im look around for a shop tmrw to take head to.
Will it be necessary to bore the cylinders?
Buy the time you get all the machine work and buy all the parts for a 20lb boost motor, its gonna cost a couple G's.You can buy a stage 2 crate motor good for 450HP for $3000 Or the same shortblock for $2000.It will save alot of time and you know its done right.I know when my motor goes,I'm headed straight for Porters Performance.
 
Thank you for the link, it really makes it clear.

So i guess im on the right path, im look around for a shop tmrw to take head to.
Will it be necessary to bore the cylinders?

If you are planing on getting forged pistons and rods wait until the machine shop takes a look at it. They will tell you if you need an overbore piston set or not. Also if you are not that familiar with the rebuild process I would have them assemble the short block for you. Also CODE is right about the psi, but to elaborate a little more you should have a good idea what you want to build your car for before you even change the compression ratio on your pistons especially if you want to race in autocross or drag it. If you want a fun DD then that stuff doesn't matter as much but if we knew your goals it could help us give better advice to you.
 
Buy the time you get all the machine work and buy all the parts for a 20lb boost motor, its gonna cost a couple G's.You can buy a stage 2 crate motor good for 450HP for $3000 Or the same shortblock for $2000.It will save alot of time and you know its done right.I know when my motor goes,I'm headed straight for Porters Performance.

that does sound a lot simpler and safer, but I want to build off my block

If you are planing on getting forged pistons and rods wait until the machine shop takes a look at it. They will tell you if you need an overbore piston set or not. Also if you are not that familiar with the rebuild process I would have them assemble the short block for you. Also CODE is right about the psi, but to elaborate a little more you should have a good idea what you want to build your car for before you even change the compression ratio on your pistons especially if you want to race in autocross or drag it. If you want a fun DD then that stuff doesn't matter as much but if we knew your goals it could help us give better advice to you.

Im not ordering any parts until i get proper diagnostic on the head (my dad said it looks fine, but thats just from eyeballing), and i hear that the lower compression ration is easier to tune.. right?

And well this car will be my DD, and i would like it to run 300hp or more(or is that impractical for a DD?)
 
that does sound a lot simpler and safer, but I want to build off my block
Im not ordering any parts until i get proper diagnostic on the head (my dad said it looks fine, but thats just from eyeballing), and i hear that the lower compression ration is easier to tune.. right?

And well this car will be my DD, and i would like it to run 300hp or more(or is that impractical for a DD?)

When you send then your core, they build your motor for you, with the parts that you want.You just hold on to your oil pan and valve cover.I see alot of guys try to do it themselves, and have nothing but problems shortly down the road.I guess it depends on how much experience you have.I here that they build a good motor that is good for up to 450hp for $3000.
 
When you send then your core, they build your motor for you, with the parts that you want.You just hold on to your oil pan and valve cover.I see alot of guys try to do it themselves, and have nothing but problems shortly down the road.I guess it depends on how much experience you have.I here that they build a good motor that is good for up to 450hp for $3000.

Well I'm not rebuilding it myself, my dads a mechanic so he knows what his doing but ## right theres always place errors.

Im honestly having second toughs about my goal right at this point; 2000 to just build the engine, plus the turbo kit, ect. Can I get like an estimate on how much would it cost to just get it to run like 300 hp?
 
Well I'm not rebuilding it myself, my dads a mechanic so he knows what his doing but ## right theres always place errors.

Im honestly having second toughs about my goal right at this point; 2000 to just build the engine, plus the turbo kit, ect. Can I get like an estimate on how much would it cost to just get it to run like 300 hp?
you still need forged internals to make that much power on a 420A with a turbo.You can build your motor with stock internal and run up to 8lbs of boost.That turbo is like a drugWTF.Once you try it you'll want more.If your gonna rip open the motor and you might as well get the good stuff.If you dont,you will wish you did later!:thumb:

you still need forged internals to make that much power on a 420A with a turbo.You can build your motor with stock internal and run up to 8lbs of boost.That turbo is like a drugWTF.Once you try it you'll want more.If your gonna rip open the motor and you might as well get the good stuff.If you dont,you will wish you did later!:thumb:
you just have to start pricing some parts to compare
 
you still need forged internals to make that much power on a 420A with a turbo.You can build your motor with stock internal and run up to 8lbs of boost.That turbo is like a drugWTF.Once you try it you'll want more.If your gonna rip open the motor and you might as well get the good stuff.If you dont,you will wish you did later!:thumb:

you just have to start pricing some parts to compare

yea ## right, ill still make sure to get JE or wiesco pistons and eagle rods( is there any other good pistons or rods?)
 
i took the head into a shop and the guy told me that ima need better valves if i wanna turbo.( and that they cost 200 more)
 
i took the head into a shop and the guy told me that ima need better valves if i wanna turbo.( and that they cost 200 more)

Pretty sure he was lying to you. Oh yea and you might want to look at the vendor reviews on here before you give Porters Performance any of your money.
 
i took the head into a shop and the guy told me that ima need better valves if i wanna turbo.( and that they cost 200 more)
If you do some searching you find that the 420A head is really designed well.From what I here the stock head is fine for a turbo build.If I was you I would worry about building the bottom for a turbo.PP gotta get one right sooner or later.Gotta have faith!If I decided what to do from reading reveiws,I would of never bought a car with a mitsubishi motor.Oh yeah,I forgot,I got a 420A:p JMWY:thumb:
 
If you do some searching you find that the 420A head is really designed well.From what I here the stock head is fine for a turbo build.If I was you I would worry about building the bottom for a turbo.
The stock head can withstand boost. But if you plan on doing a full build you might want to rebuild the head and upgrade for some cams.
 
If you do some searching you find that the 420A head is really designed well.From what I here the stock head is fine for a turbo build.If I was you I would worry about building the bottom for a turbo.

Yea new forged pistons, but do you really need forged rods too?

Ooo and i called another shop to ask how much would it cost to cut the valves and he told me $80. I'm still waiting for a quote from the guy i brought the head to, but he said like 400 with new valves(600 with the BETTER valves)
 
Yea new forged pistons, but do you really need forged rods too?

Ooo and i called another shop to ask how much would it cost to cut the valves and he told me $80. I'm still waiting for a quote from the guy i brought the head to, but he said like 400 with new valves(600 with the BETTER valves)
I would put the extra $200 towards new rods instead.The rods on the 420A are the weakest link in my opinion.
 
If you read the all the links in post 2 (post writin be me by the way :sneaky:) you will know everything you need to know to go in and TELL the shop what to do. I never walk into a shop and ask what I need. First of all they usually don't know what is required on our motors and second they see dollar signs flying and want you to get "better" valves when you don't need "better" valves. Now there is a difference between needing "better" valves and NEW valves so be sure to get the right story.
 
If you read the all the links in post 2 (post writin be me by the way :sneaky:) you will know everything you need to know to go in and TELL the shop what to do. I never walk into a shop and ask what I need. First of all they usually don't know what is required on our motors and second they see dollar signs flying and want you to get "better" valves when you don't need "better" valves. Now there is a difference between needing "better" valves and NEW valves so be sure to get the right story.

So what ## saying is just get the stock valves cut and im good to go?
 
So what ## saying is just get the stock valves cut and im good to go?

I'm usually not one for spoon feeding but since you keep missing this info in the link I gave you here you go a direct copy from the 2gnt.com site...

Valve_Job
Cost | $150 and up
Maybe you've heard people mention angles when talking about valve jobs. This comes from special machine work being done to the backsides of the valve and where the valves "seat" to the head when they are shut. Matching angles are cut into both the valve and seat to both improve sealing when closed and flow when open. A three angle is a great mod. A five angle is a bit better, but will cost more, and a full radius valve job, where the valve and seat are perfectly matched together as smoothly as possible, is the ultimate in valve jobs and is, understandably, the most expensive. Will you notice one more than the other? Not likely, but it's a good idea to have a valve job done. Pick the one that best suits your budget and goals.

This is taken from this link and not my own words... for reference.
2GNT.com - Stage3b
 
I'm usually not one for spoon feeding but since you keep missing this info in the link I gave you here you go a direct copy from the 2gnt.com site...

Valve_Job
Cost | $150 and up
Maybe you've heard people mention angles when talking about valve jobs. This comes from special machine work being done to the backsides of the valve and where the valves "seat" to the head when they are shut. Matching angles are cut into both the valve and seat to both improve sealing when closed and flow when open. A three angle is a great mod. A five angle is a bit better, but will cost more, and a full radius valve job, where the valve and seat are perfectly matched together as smoothly as possible, is the ultimate in valve jobs and is, understandably, the most expensive. Will you notice one more than the other? Not likely, but it's a good idea to have a valve job done. Pick the one that best suits your budget and goals.

This is taken from this link and not my own words... for reference.
2GNT.com - Stage3b

Sorry didnt get to read up to stage 3 :ohdamn:
 
$475 for guides in the exhaust valves( which i know i dont need), vavle job and surfacing.I'm taking it somewhere else
 
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