Rear diff fill plug stuck

[4gfun]

My rear diff plug is stuck. I have tried soaking in PB blaster and using 2 different breaker bars. I have tried heating it with propane. I can't get my air gun in there to turn it either.

I am thinking of running to get some MAP gas. The head is nearly rounded from trying.

Thanks

 

[jcarmichael]

everything you have tried would have been my first thoughts, if you have a air hammer/chisell you might give that a try just hit each side of the bolt might break it free a bit, if that doesn't work. you might try liquid wrench. somewhat like pb blaster but may be a bit better. if all else fails and I mean no other options drill the bolt out and re tap it. Not sure that Is the best option but I am guessing you removed the lower bolt first and drained the fluid and this is the side bolt.

also I know you said a air gun wouldn't get up in there have you tried a air ratchet. the one I have here at my house isn't the greatest tool but it gets into places the air gun can't get into.

 

[TrevorS]

Despite the popular viewpoint, I agree with Liquid Wrench over PB Blaster. Make sure you allow lots of soak time before applying the longest feasible breaker bar (be patient). Although one hour may be OK in some cases, 12 and even 24 hours is better if it's defiant.

 

[4gfun]

Thanks, what do you guys think of pulling the diff cover off instead and pulling the plug out once held on a vice?

 

[Tyeler18]

Mine rounded to hell when I took it off. Ended up having to pound a 23mm socket on with a 3lb sledge and took a 3ft breaker bar and took it right off.

 

[4gfun]

Heading out in a sec and hoping you are still around....how did you use the breaker bar?....got everything but that part.

Thanks

Mine rounded to hell when I took it off. Ended up having to pound a 23mm socket on with a 3lb sledge and took a 3ft breaker bar and took it right off.

 

[crimsondragon]

I'm assuming your removing the plug to check fluid. Might as well pull the cover, get an impact on it and reinstall. Then change fluid.

 

[Lou98GSX]

a little heat always helps

 

[4gfun]

Yep, to change the fluid over to redline shockproof actually. The cover looks easy to pull except for the mustache brace at the top.

Car is a GVR4 so not sure how similar it is back there...just don't want to get myself in deeper but I'll do it if its not that hard.

Thanks

I'm assuming your removing the plug to check fluid. Might as well pull the cover, get an impact on it and reinstall. Then change fluid.

Heh, almost always...check my post again. This time, a little or a lot isn't going far.

I am going to head over to harbor freight and see what they have as far as an electric impact. My compressor can't push over 80 psi so an air one won't fly.

Waiting on tyeler to finish explaining on the prybar part...got the rest.

a little heat always helps

 

[TimF]

+1 for liquid wrench I use that all the time and it cost half the price of PB blaster. WD40 just came out with there own version of that stuff so I have yet to try it, but that is 7$ a can, compared to the 2$ a can of LW we sell at work.

 

[4gfun]

Well pulled the diff bolts and of course the top one won't budge and I rounded the bolt. I can't even see the bolt....I am guessing this is a far worse situation than the fill plug being stripped.

 

[jcarmichael]

Well pulled the diff bolts and of course the top one won't budge and I rounded the bolt. I can't even see the bolt....I am guessing this is a far worse situation than the fill plug being stripped.

you might have to try what, the above posted said with hammering a socket on to it, if you can get an extension on it as well that may help you out. I haven't made it to my rear end yet to really visually see what your meaning.

hopefully this is helpful

 

[1990whitetsiawd]

Well pulled the diff bolts and of course the top one won't budge and I rounded the bolt. I can't even see the bolt....I am guessing this is a far worse situation than the fill plug being stripped.

I'm assuming it's one of the 17mm iirc on the top of the subframe?

Those are a real pita if you have an oxy torch that would be the best, if you can get to it to torch of head and remove remainder of said bolt out of car.

 

[4gfun]

Thanks all, your tips worked out very well.

Yes the 17 bolts on the top were a mother. I soaked them then put on a 1/2 inch breaker bar along with my steel tipped shoes then kicked the crap out of them. Tried to hammer a 7/8 socket on and it didn't happen. (7/8 should have worked and is a heck of alot less than the 23mm and cost a heck of alot less over at harbor freight).

I finally got the troublesome top diff bolt out. Had to go get a new 14mm 6 point one and listened to you all about the liquid wrench. I heated the bolt, cooled it with liquid wrench several times back and forth until I could get it off.

Now for my latest issue....I can't get the diff cover off. I don't want to beat it too badly with an engineering hammer since it looks pretty underneath.

I have been going with a hammer and chisel at the edges but nothing is happening.

Thoughts?

Thanks

 

[TrevorS]

The purpose of the Liquid Wrench is not to cool it, but to be applied at ambient temperature and allowed plenty of time to penetrate (applied heat just evaporates it). If the bolts have obviously been in there awhile, it should be the first step before even applying a wrench. If any bolt fights, don't wait until you damage it, apply Liquid Wrench to not only that bolt, but all of them. Penetrating oil doesn't work instantaneously, it takes time, and for stubborn fasteners, lots of time. I get the impression from your posts you never really gave it a chance to help you (instructions on the can).

Like I said earlier, make sure you allow lots of soak time -- be patient. Although as little as a half hour may be OK in some cases, 12 and even 24 hours is better if it's defiant. If you rush it, it can't help.

 

[4gfun]

Thank you, guess I will be more patient with the Liquid Wrench in the future, but so glad you all told me about it.

Finally done with this crap. Got the diff cover off by using a 3 lb sledgehammer and a large center punch. Just tapped anywhere on the cover and off it came. As to the drain plug. Beat the 7/8 socket on there hundreds of times..found that I was hitting it too hard an backed off until it stayed. Liquid wrenched and torched the plug but it wouldnt't budge. Drilled the cover plug with bit after bit (almost got to the threads). Finally I used the breaker bar and the 7/8 after putting it in a vice.

Anyone know torque specs for the drain plug and the diff cover?

Anyone know bolt sizes? I wouldn't dare put these ones back in.

Thanks again.

The purpose of the Liquid Wrench is not to cool it, but to be applied at ambient temperature and allowed plenty of time to penetrate (applied heat just evaporates it). If the bolts have obviously been in there awhile, it should be the first step before even applying a wrench. If any bolt fights, don't wait until you damage it, apply Liquid Wrench to not only that bolt, but all of them. Penetrating oil doesn't work instantaneously, it takes time, and for stubborn fasteners, lots of time. I get the impression from your posts you never really gave it a chance to help you (instructions on the can).

Like I said earlier, make sure you allow lots of soak time -- be patient. Although as little as a half hour may be OK in some cases, 12 and even 24 hours is better if it's defiant. If you rush it, it can't help.

Done with this...Lowes special ...thanks all!