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rear balance shaft removal

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lowandsleekDSM

15+ Year Contributor
309
0
Jul 31, 2007
tampa, Florida
Hey everyone, im currently bolting up my new oil pump/front case and well..i was actually thinking about eliminating the rear balance shaft just to make installation that much easier. I was looking at the BSE kit from JNZ tuning, and i had a couple of stupid questions LOL One being the main one of course, will the BSE kit work on the rear balance shaft and will it be easier to install it on the rear balance shaft rather then the front balance shaft? Because i read in a post while researching this topic and i read that the bearings for the rear balance shaft do not need to be taken out like the ones in the front balance shaft. On top of that, i have aftermarket motor mounts so the car shakes already so to me i dont think i will feel the vibrations that deleted rear balance shaft is possibly going to produce anyways LOL :dsm:
 
you can just leave the front shaft in and not hook the belt up..and the rear does not require you to replace the bearing
 
you can just leave the front shaft in and not hook the belt up..and the rear does not require you to replace the bearing

Correct. In 2g's it's pretty difficult, albeit possible, to take out the front balance shaft. Most people just take off the belt (leave the gear on the front BS) and remove the balance pulley. In order to remove the rear balance shaft, you will need to take it off along with the front cover and replace it with a stub shaft.
 
Yea thats why i`m asking this question now because of the fact that i do have the front case and everything off and i just got thinking just to try the BSE and see how it goes. I also read something about oil pressure would be effected by revoming the rear balance shaft? Is there any truth to that? I heard something about porting out the relief valve in the front case itself? (again i could of possibly read something wrong)
 
No you are right. Whether or not you leave that front shaft in is up to you, I have done both ways with no ill effects (well, there shouldn't be except deadweight). When you remove the balance shafts, yes your oil pressure will go up. On the oil filter housing there is this huge silver nut. You need to remove that nut and take the plunger (piston) out to port the oil filter housing hole. There is a nice big thread floating around here explaining how to do it. Since it is soft aluminum, you can use a hand file, dremel, or die grinder to port it out and I highly recommend that you DO port the relief hole.
 
Sweet thanx for the info, ill do some research on porting that relief valve :thumb:

Had another question too, i did a little bit of research on porting the relief valve and someone said they were going to try to put in a softer rate spring, now can that be done too? or is it just better to do the porting?
 
The stubby shaft still needs to spin on a bearing. The front balance shaft you can leave in there.

I recommend modifying the rear balance shaft and leave both balance shafts in the car instead of using a stubby shaft. This is the best and most reliable way. Will save your oil pump and help stabilize oil pressure
 
The stubby shaft does NOT spin on a bearing. It's so short it doesn't reach the bearings.

and why is that a problem, the oil pump can see 9k set up like this with no problems, i have done in dsms and evos, many making over 500whp with no problems. just wondering why everyone thinks the stubby shaft is so bad. i think most of the time its a tuner excuse as to why a bearing spun, when in reality it was detonation pounding out the bearing.
 
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