Reading the 95 Talon anti-lock codes

[Sly]

I have a 95 Talon TSI which has developed the "anti-lock light likes to come on and stay on" issue. I'm really not sure the anti-lock ever worked, because I've never noticed it come on, but that's another story. It's too old to do the 'ground the pin to get the codes thing' - does anyone know what kind of reader can actually read the codes? The shop I work with has several different ones and none of them can read it, the Chrysler dealer of course wouldn't know what to do with it to save their life and the Mitsubishi dealer in town is pretty hit or miss. Has anyone been able to successfully read these on the early 2g anti-lock system? If so, what did you use?

I'd rather not have to rip pieces apart bit by bit to test everything, but nothing looks obviously broken/frayed, and it's intermittent, sometimes it comes on in the first few minutes, sometimes it's the first time after I hit the brakes, sometimes, it doesn't come on at all.

 

[007jimmy]

When my light came on it was due to one or more faulty speed sensors. The sensors are what determines when the abs system kicks in. Since there are 4 sensors and they were not cheap I opted to go non abs and pulled the bulb in the cluster and pulled the relay out of the main fuse box. Brakes work just fine. But if you want to keep the ABS start with the speed sensors. Make sure you have the proper relay for the system in the fuse box also.

Edit: I did end up removing the whole system eventually. Ran new stainless lines and purchased a non abs prop valve.

 

[luv2rallye]

Yes, the reading of 2g ABS trouble codes using the ABS warning light (by grounding pin 1) doesn't work for the earlier Nippondenso ABS ECU, but it does work for the later Bosch. Mitsu switched to Bosch on 7/1997 (see https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/reading-2g-abs-diagnostic-trouble-codes.197283/).

Ya I'd call Chrysler and Mitsu and ask if they have a reader for the early 2g abs codes - but good luck with that - I've never found one (now they didn't even know the difference since all the old mechanics are gone). I agree the wheel speed sensors are usually the culpret - look for broken wires on them. Otherwise you can't tell if they are bad. Some aftermarket hub replacements don't even have them or the necessary tone ring, so look to see if they are even there. In the end you'll just end up deleting abs like we all did .