- Thread starter
- #76
twicks69
Supporting Vendor
- 4,301
- 2,005
- Mar 12, 2004
-
Milwaukee,
Wisconsin
I pulled the following:
*HVAC system
*Vent system
*Cruise control
*Rear speakers
*Rear seatbelts and Passenger factory seat belt
*Wiper reservoir
*Removed all acoustical dampening
I am still running everything to keep it streetable.
*Exhaust (short route -- downpipe with muffler and turn-down)
*Stereo
*Power windows
*ABS
*Power Steering
*Wipers
*Full Leather Interior (minus rear seat backs -- they interfere with the cage)
*Carpet
*All airbags are still intact (not hooked up)
*Stock steering wheel
*Stock center console
*Crash beams
*All panels
*All glass.
*Etc.
This was specifically done because ANYONE can build a RACE CAR. I wanted to build a STREET CAR that can beat RACE cars.
Yeah, I can gut the heck out of the car and go faster; so what. No one wants to buy a race car; they want to own a STREET car that can do what I am doing. And I don't want to run around in some rattle box without an interior.
As well, I have had my issues with driveline failures over the years, and have already hand grenaded 12 transmissions (I am on #13 currently), and MANY other parts throughout the years.
Can I go faster with less weight? Yes
Can I reduce driveline failure? Yes
Should I have gone with a Dogbox from the beginning? Yes--except I don't know many people that can afford to put down the $$$$ required for the entire setup to run with the big dogs -- trans, transfer case, CF driveshaft, rear end, diffs, axles, etc. ~$15,000 to do. Granted, I have already broken around $40K in transmissions throughout the years, and it would have been the better way to go; but STILL; even race parts break.
Why didn't I go 6-bolt? Because each person has to be different, and I put a hell of alot of research into my build before starting it, and have made my changes along the way to make the most reliable 9-second street car I could with the best parts I could afford. I have proven my combination, through continuous effort to make it better through tuning and trial/error. I have had no major issues with my engine in 3-years of massive boost, street and track passes, etc.
Tuning is key; take advantage of a dyno and prove it at the track.
You all must understand that each person has their own agendas for their cars. I am in NO competition with anyone on this board, nor with others out there. I am doing this for myself, plain and simple. My goal is to continue bettering myself, continue going faster, and continue to help every person to the best of my abilities.
As well, my backround is in Environmental Geology and Chemistry, and I am an Environmental Geologist by profession. I do mechanics for fun. I also work a crapload of hours (well over 3000 hours last fiscal year), and have other responsibilities in life.
*HVAC system
*Vent system
*Cruise control
*Rear speakers
*Rear seatbelts and Passenger factory seat belt
*Wiper reservoir
*Removed all acoustical dampening
I am still running everything to keep it streetable.
*Exhaust (short route -- downpipe with muffler and turn-down)
*Stereo
*Power windows
*ABS
*Power Steering
*Wipers
*Full Leather Interior (minus rear seat backs -- they interfere with the cage)
*Carpet
*All airbags are still intact (not hooked up)
*Stock steering wheel
*Stock center console
*Crash beams
*All panels
*All glass.
*Etc.
This was specifically done because ANYONE can build a RACE CAR. I wanted to build a STREET CAR that can beat RACE cars.

Yeah, I can gut the heck out of the car and go faster; so what. No one wants to buy a race car; they want to own a STREET car that can do what I am doing. And I don't want to run around in some rattle box without an interior.
As well, I have had my issues with driveline failures over the years, and have already hand grenaded 12 transmissions (I am on #13 currently), and MANY other parts throughout the years.
Can I go faster with less weight? Yes
Can I reduce driveline failure? Yes
Should I have gone with a Dogbox from the beginning? Yes--except I don't know many people that can afford to put down the $$$$ required for the entire setup to run with the big dogs -- trans, transfer case, CF driveshaft, rear end, diffs, axles, etc. ~$15,000 to do. Granted, I have already broken around $40K in transmissions throughout the years, and it would have been the better way to go; but STILL; even race parts break.
Why didn't I go 6-bolt? Because each person has to be different, and I put a hell of alot of research into my build before starting it, and have made my changes along the way to make the most reliable 9-second street car I could with the best parts I could afford. I have proven my combination, through continuous effort to make it better through tuning and trial/error. I have had no major issues with my engine in 3-years of massive boost, street and track passes, etc.
Tuning is key; take advantage of a dyno and prove it at the track.
You all must understand that each person has their own agendas for their cars. I am in NO competition with anyone on this board, nor with others out there. I am doing this for myself, plain and simple. My goal is to continue bettering myself, continue going faster, and continue to help every person to the best of my abilities.
As well, my backround is in Environmental Geology and Chemistry, and I am an Environmental Geologist by profession. I do mechanics for fun. I also work a crapload of hours (well over 3000 hours last fiscal year), and have other responsibilities in life.

.


