ran fine night before now it knocks hard.

[canonize-ryda]

My car just recently got running from sitting for 5 years. I have done all maint. and added some performance parts. I have been having a idle problem where my car dies when pushing the clutch in to stop. It would always start back up and i would be on my way.

Last night my ride was good besides the dieing but when i tryed to start it this morning after putting in a new thermostat it starting knocking very badly. I just checked compression yesterday and it was 130,125,124,123 So i think that is ok.

I am now thinking i have some kind of air/fuel problem. Car idles almost flawlessly when i up the fuel pressure to around 60lbs. But when turned down it starts to act up. Could my injectors be old and crummy from sitting for 5 years? I have a new fuel pump W/ rewire yet to install(a 255) and i have installed a new fuel filter already. Car was luckily stored with no gas in the tank so i dont think its too bad.

 

[g4ebguy90]

My car did the same stuff before it started knocking.

Die every time at a stop. Had to restart, usually always did.

Then it just started sounding horrible, finally it knocked. Spun bearing.

 

[95talongirl]

If its knocking, then no matter what you do air/fuel wise... that's not going to make that noise go away. You'll have to address that source of the knock then go form there. I would not drive the car anymore at this point...

 

[4Lurker4]

If its knocking, then no matter what you do air/fuel wise... that's not going to make that noise go away. You'll have to address that source of the knock then go form there. I would not drive the car anymore at this point...

Agreed, if it's starts to knock, engine internals need to be checked first. Your compression test results are also quite low.

 

[g4ebguy90]

Yea i'd probaly pull the pan before I do anything else. Wish I would have when my engine started making even just the slightest weird noise. 2 days later, BS bearing in my oil pan along with tons of metal shavings and a good old spunbearing . Good Luck to you.

 

[canonize-ryda]

It sounds like a diesel engine the way its knocking. How do i go about checking the bearing from the oil pan. What am i looking for? I have only put 35 or so miles on it since i put it all together so this sucks. Also what can i do to fix this without pulling the whole engine again. On wikipedia it says some things about engine knocking/pre ignition. Its says something about my sparkplugs and the way the fuel is being ignited in a way that is off centered the plug tip. Any of this any good info?

 

[g4ebguy90]

Ok, I mean my engine didn't knock either. It just sounded pretty bad, and noises followed RPM. I never heard a LOUD KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK. The engine ran fine just a little off.

You pull the pan. First thing to check is for metal.
2nd is to check for movement of the rods big ends. If one of them moves then thats the one with rod knock.
3rd is to look to see if you have balance shafts going through the block. There are 2.
Reach your hand up and see if you can move them at all. If you can, you may have found one with a bad or failed bearing.

If there are no balance shafts and the rods won't move hardly at all, then at least you have peice of mind your bottom end is tip top.

The rods will move a little bit, I'm talking like just enough to make a very small sound.
What your looking for is to move the rod, and you can move it enough to hear a CLUNK.

 

[kthackst]

Get the car running then start pulling plug wires one at a time. When the knocking stops that is your bad cylinder.all this does is confirm you spun a rod bearing.

The only correct way to fix rod knock is to pull the motor inspect crank and replace the damaged rod. Sorry bud.

 

[canonize-ryda]

ok Thanks i will inspect it when i get a chance. Hoping it doesn't looks like yours did g4. I just seen your thread for this.

 

[g4ebguy90]

Yea bro, 5 days of feeling a boosted 4g63, and bam.... Spun rod. My problem was very unique I think.
The engine was rebuilt, I figured any DSM guy would for sure do a Balance shaft delete. So The extra vibration *ALOT* that I felt in the car, I figured was from the balance shaft delete, and the 272's cams that I have yet to confirm were installed. Then to find out on inspection, It did have balance shafts AND, the belt was almost ripped apart. The balance shaft knocked out the bearing, lost oil pressure, spun the bearing BAM. 1 SAD g4ebguy90

From now ON, I am never EVER going to believe what someone says about a car. They can say all they want, it's got forged internals BLA BLA BLA. I will not BUY that car, give me a stock DSM anyday.

 

[canonize-ryda]

Mine was stock and yea i was the same last 5 days had it running and i hate to admit this i but i was running 20 plus psi(never drove a boosted car before and man i was freaking out at how much power this thing had) on the first few runs till i got my boost controller set right. The day after i get it set right bam it sounds like a dam diesel and now i actually am in tears and have a question.

I have a 95 auto tsi and can i swap on my head to it? I know its a 6-bolt head swap but is it that hard? I like 1gs way more than 2gs but hey i bought the 95 with warped head for 200 bucks. Carbon fiber hood, 3 inch full exhaust. Stock other than that. Should i swap heads or just get a new block for mine?

Also on my laser i drained the oil and didn't see any metal flakes but the oil from 35 miles of driving is already black as night. I still have 3 more bolts for my oil pan to come off. Do you guys remove you DP when doing this? Looks like i could get away with it but my 3 inch megan is pretty big.