Ran fine a week ago, now this.

[a7xinsane]

Hey guys this is my first post on the forums and I couldn't really find a post that described my problem well enough for anyone to help me. I have a 1995 eagle talon tsi awd. So i figured you guys might be able to help me out. It cranks fine but sometimes it acts like its getting locked up and stops. Then it just goes again. You have to hold the throttle at about 5% to get it even running and then it jumps from 400rpm to 1200rpm. Just back and forth in between there. You can get the to stop by hitting a sweet spot on the throttle. But then it cuts out and skips and blows white smoke out of the exhaust. Sometimes i can just walk outside and it will start and idle normaly then after about 5 secs of idling it all together quits. I disconnect and reconnect the battery and restart it and it runs fine. Too bad for the most part it just cuts out and wont run at all. Please help the newbie here guys. Also I have a video if it would help any.
Thanks beforehand for any advice.

 

[mavericktsi83]

White smoke is generally a sign of a bad head gasket...check the plugs, oil and compression and go from there.

 

[a7xinsane]

Just put brand new ngk plugs in and the oil was just changed. I have compression and when it does decide to run fine there is no smoke at all.

 

[Tyeler18]

Do you get a check engine light on at all? Do you have a way to log the car? I could throw lots of potential fixes at this, but you're just wasting time and money throwing parts at it without at the very least a scanner with freeze frame data.

 

[a7xinsane]

That is why I am asking you guys. The engine light is on but I dont have a code scanner. nor do any garages have a scanner that will work on it where i live

 

[mavericktsi83]

Do you get a check engine light on at all? Do you have a way to log the car? I could throw lots of potential fixes at this, but you're just wasting time and money throwing parts at it without at the very least a scanner with freeze frame data.

Tyeler is on point here.

That is why I am asking you guys. The engine light is on but I dont have a code scanner. nor do any garages have a scanner that will work on it where i live

What? Your car is OBD II so any shop or even an autoparts store like autozone or the like will be able to scan your car. They generally do it for free btw. Just do a simple google search a find the nearest place that can perform this otherwise it may be tough to diagnose...especially by people on the internet.

Just put brand new ngk plugs in and the oil was just changed. I have compression and when it does decide to run fine there is no smoke at all.

But have you checked these things after you initially posted? I understand you have some compression or the engine wouldn't run...did you actually preform a compression test?

Some other tips if you want to troubleshoot and potentially figure this out:

The fact that you have newer plugs/ oil is not the point nor what I'm getting at here. You need to pull the plugs and inspect them and take a look at the oil too. Generally anytime you have white smoke it is a sign of a bad headgasket and the engine will run poorly and will idle roughly as further symptoms. Pull your new plugs and inspect them for signs of coolant. Take your car for a short drive and then check the oil for contamination. And check your coolant..take the cap off when warming it up and rev the engine and check for bubbles.

Good luck and maybe this wont be the issue but if you want to further pinpoint the source you should rule this all out considering your explanation.

 

[Yomero]

Car is a 95 so there is a good chance that still an OBD-I it all depends on the production date. Maybe that's why he can't read the codes. A respectable shop with a good scanner can read the codes. Be aware they probably try to overcharge for this. Good luck.

 

[WizardTSi]

A 1995 is OBD2 compliant. Autzone should be able to check it.

 

[mavericktsi83]

Car is a 95 so there is a good chance that still an OBD-I it all depends on the production date. Maybe that's why he can't read the codes. A respectable shop with a good scanner can read the codes. Be aware they probably try to overcharge for this. Good luck.

No. Wrong, all 2g's are OBDII. Again, all one needs to do is go to Autozone or the like and have them scan it. They preform this service for free.

 

[chris00326]

No. Wrong, all 2g's are OBDII. Again, all one needs to do is go to Autozone or the like and have them scan it. They preform this service for free.

No sir you are wrong. in 95 it was not manditory for the obd II switch yet altho dsm started to make the change not all were obd II. 96 was the year they were all obd II.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Ok so Auto Zone can't scan it, therefore it must be OBDI. All the OP needs is a lousy paperclip to retrieve the codes. Just like we used to do it in the old days when we had payphones, and before kids all wore their pants down around their knees. What is the world coming to these days?

 

[mavericktsi83]

No sir you are wrong. in 95 it was not manditory for the obd II switch yet altho dsm started to make the change not all were obd II. 96 was the year they were all obd II.

With all due respect, you have no idea what you are talking about. The topic of1995 model year DSMs being OBDI or OBDII has been covered extensively in numerous threads. Again, without speculation, the OP 1995 Talon Tsi is OBDII. This subject has been beat to death. All 1995 model Talons were OBDII period. The insinuation that some early build cars are OBDI is a complete myth.

Here is just one of the many citations:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/198153-obd-ii-connector-1995-eagle-talon.html

So just to be crystal clear, the statement: "Car is a 95 so there is a good chance that still an OBD-I it all depends on the production date" is substantially false. There is no chance his 95' is OBDI. Zero. And the "production date" is irrelevant and not germane to 2Gs, which are ALL OBDII.

You simply restated the post I initially corrected. Your poorly worded response, in which you claim, "dsm started to make the change not all were obd II. 96 was the year they were all obd II" is FALSE and misleading. A simple search confirms this. Furthermore, this does not help the OP in the context of his problem in any meaningful way.

To the OP, ignore the misinformation, go get your car scanned to figure out why your check engine light is on. The OBDII port on you car is located to the right of the steering column just under the dash. No need for a "paperclip" just have them plug the scan tool in and read the code for you. Report back with your findings or if you need further assistance. Good luck.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

With all due respect, you have no idea what you are talking about. The topic of1995 model year DSMs being OBDI or OBDII has been covered extensively in numerous threads. Again, without speculation, the OP 1995 Talon Tsi is OBDII. This subject has been beat to death. All 1995 model Talons were OBDII period. The insinuation that some early build cars are OBDI is a complete myth.

Here is just one of the many citations:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/198153-obd-ii-connector-1995-eagle-talon.html

So just to be crystal clear, the statement: "Car is a 95 so there is a good chance that still an OBD-I it all depends on the production date" is substantially false. There is no chance his 95' is OBDI. Zero. And the "production date" is irrelevant and not germane to 2Gs, which are ALL OBDII.

You simply restated the post I initially corrected. Your poorly worded response, in which you claim, "dsm started to make the change not all were obd II. 96 was the year they were all obd II" is FALSE and misleading. A simple search confirms this. Furthermore, this does not help the OP in the context of his problem in any meaningful way.

To the OP, ignore the misinformation, go get your car scanned to figure out why your check engine light is on. The OBDII port on you car is located to the right of the steering column just under the dash. No need for a "paperclip" just have them plug the scan tool in and read the code for you. Report back with your findings or if you need further assistance. Good luck.

If this is the case, (and I must admit, I have never seen the elusive OBDI 95 DSM) then just get it scanned at the auto parts store.

 

[zachwilliams02]

My 95 gst was obd2 but sonds like a boost leak like he blew a coupler or something. Also check your cam angle sensor they are very sensitive on the 95 96 dsms

 

[a7xinsane]

Wow. Thanks for all the replies guys. i checked the plugs and they have no coolant on them. cleaned them off and put them back in. It is an OBD-2 but no garages scanner can even read anything on the car. im wondering if the ecu is bad. the data link connector fuse is fine so it should be able to read. also what is the fuel pressure supposed to be at? my guage says its only at about 5psi but its aftermarked so it could be wrong.

 

[Gerg]

The fuel pressure for your 2g should be at 43.5 psi.

 

[mavericktsi83]

Wow. Thanks for all the replies guys. i checked the plugs and they have no coolant on them. cleaned them off and put them back in. It is an OBD-2 but no garages scanner can even read anything on the car. im wondering if the ecu is bad. the data link connector fuse is fine so it should be able to read. also what is the fuel pressure supposed to be at? my guage says its only at about 5psi but its aftermarked so it could be wrong.

5 psi sounds alarming. Do you have an AFPR?

Did the mechanic give an explanation on why it couldn't be read? Was there a "linking error" message? Did he go to the next logical step and use a volt meter? Check for voltage on pin 16 and check ground on pins 4 and 5. Was the ignition on when the mechanic was attempting diagnostics? Try going somewhere else to get it scanned.

 

[Tyeler18]

At 5psi the car wouldn't even fire at all. Even at 20psi you won't get a sputter out of it.

 

[a7xinsane]

It can fire so i guess that means that it is getting adequate fuel pressure. When i did have it running I pulled the spark plug wires. It only made a difference on 2 and 3 cylinder. And there was a link error. Wouldnt even detect a vehicle, but no he didnt use a volt meter on the pins. Also there is some yellow stuff on the ecu in a few places. You can scrape it right off.

 

[bmxfelon420]

sounds like you have a bad power transistor or one of your coils is bad, or the ignition driver in the ecu is dead. With what you said about the ecu, send it out to ecmtuning for repair, and consider getting link while youre at it.

 

[a7xinsane]

sounds like you have a bad power transistor or one of your coils is bad, or the ignition driver in the ecu is dead. With what you said about the ecu, send it out to ecmtuning for repair, and consider getting link while youre at it.

I was actually considering getting dsmlink. I was wondering what is your guys' opinion on evoscan? 500 is a little steep right now compared to 25 bucks if its any bit of decent.

 

[Tyeler18]

I was actually considering getting dsmlink. I was wondering what is your guys' opinion on evoscan? 500 is a little steep right now compared to 25 bucks if its any bit of decent.

Evoscan is only a logger, not a tuner. Link is a full tuner/logger. And evoscan doesn't work very well on 95 ecu's. It works, but not well. If you want to use evoscan/ecuflash you need a 98/99 ecu or evo ecu (which I use). You're looking more around the $150-300 range to set up a flashable ecu properly.

If you can physically scrape goo off your ecu, then the caps have leaked all over it. I will not guarantee that's your issue, but i will guarantee it's a problem. It needs to either be replaced or sent off for repair (if it's not past fixing).

 

[bmxfelon420]

its 425 for v3 lite. Not too bad if you consider what youre getting. Evoscan on a 98-99 or evo ecu isnt bad though.

 

[a7xinsane]

Evoscan is only a logger, not a tuner. Link is a full tuner/logger. And evoscan doesn't work very well on 95 ecu's. It works, but not well. If you want to use evoscan/ecuflash you need a 98/99 ecu or evo ecu (which I use). You're looking more around the $150-300 range to set up a flashable ecu properly.

If you can physically scrape goo off your ecu, then the caps have leaked all over it. I will not guarantee that's your issue, but i will guarantee it's a problem. It needs to either be replaced or sent off for repair (if it's not past fixing).

If I could upload a picture would you be able to tell me what it might be? Its in random spots some not anywhere near the caps.

 

[delta448]

It is an OBD-2 but no garages scanner can even read anything on the car. im wondering if the ecu is bad. the data link connector fuse is fine so it should be able to read.

Go to AutoZone, when they ask what year it is tell them it's a 97, do not tell them it's a 95 because they will refuse to read it since it's pre-96 and they are ignorant. They can scan it. All 2Gs were OBD2 compliant regardless of build date. DSM (Mitsubishi) was in compliance significantly earlier than the deadline with vehicles equipped with anything in the Sirius engine family.

Ask the salesman to not turn the scan tool on, but just plug it in. The only tool they are allowed to use is the Actron 9580A, which turns on automagically if there is voltage and ground present.

If the tool doesn't turn on by itself, there is probably a broken or disconnected wire at the port and they will not be able to read anything. It is possible that the ECU is damaged, but not likely. (The 2G ECUs are not nearly as prone to leaky caps as the 1Gs, so usually any ECU damage is a result of user incompetence in wiring causing a driver to burn out. I would be interested in seeing this yellow goo you mention.) This same scan tool can also display live data if you can sweet talk the salesperson into spending a few extra minutes with you, which is much easier if you go at a time when they aren't busy.

The codes are the same from 95-99, so tell them it's a 99 if you want -just make sure to say 96 or later.