Ran fine a week ago, now this.

[a7xinsane]

Hey guys this is my first post on the forums and I couldn't really find a post that described my problem well enough for anyone to help me. I have a 1995 eagle talon tsi awd. So i figured you guys might be able to help me out. It cranks fine but sometimes it acts like its getting locked up and stops. Then it just goes again. You have to hold the throttle at about 5% to get it even running and then it jumps from 400rpm to 1200rpm. Just back and forth in between there. You can get the to stop by hitting a sweet spot on the throttle. But then it cuts out and skips and blows white smoke out of the exhaust. Sometimes i can just walk outside and it will start and idle normaly then after about 5 secs of idling it all together quits. I disconnect and reconnect the battery and restart it and it runs fine. Too bad for the most part it just cuts out and wont run at all. Please help the newbie here guys. Also I have a video if it would help any.
Thanks beforehand for any advice.

 

[a7xinsane]

Go to AutoZone, when they ask what year it is tell them it's a 97, do not tell them it's a 95 because they will refuse to read it since it's pre-96 and they are ignorant. They can scan it. All 2Gs were OBD2 compliant regardless of build date. DSM (Mitsubishi) was in compliance significantly earlier than the deadline with vehicles equipped with anything in the Sirius engine family.

Ask the salesman to not turn the scan tool on, but just plug it in. The only tool they are allowed to use is the Actron 9580A, which turns on automagically if there is voltage and ground present.

If the tool doesn't turn on by itself, there is probably a broken or disconnected wire at the port and they will not be able to read anything. It is possible that the ECU is damaged, but not likely. (The 2G ECUs are not nearly as prone to leaky caps as the 1Gs, so usually any ECU damage is a result of user incompetence in wiring causing a driver to burn out. I would be interested in seeing this yellow goo you mention.) This same scan tool can also display live data if you can sweet talk the salesperson into spending a few extra minutes with you, which is much easier if you go at a time when they aren't busy.

The codes are the same from 95-99, so tell them it's a 99 if you want -just make sure to say 96 or later.

That's my problem though nearest AutoZone is 20 miles away and it is undriveable. I really wish I could show you guys a video to give you a more exact idea of what I'm dealing with.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPuXq2_rnVk]2g having problems - YouTube[/ame]

This is what happens if you can actually get it started while holding the throttle then tuning my neo to just keep it running. Holding throttle at about 20% when I'm in the car. Not moving my foot at all.

 

[a7xinsane]

If anyone could get anything from that video any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Tyeler18]

Post pics of your ecu board. I have a feeling it's toast.

Unplug your MAF and start it again, see how it does there. The fact that you have acid on the board of your ecu insures that something* is messed up there. You'll definitely have to get that fixed/replaced before going too much farther

 

[chris00326]

Have you checked to see if you are getting spark to all cylinders and also that you're fireing Order is correct? It sounds like either to me. Possible bad cam angle sensor.

 

[delta448]

Definitely misfiring. Remove the belt and inspect the alternator, A/C compressor and PS pump. The squeal sounds like something is locking up somewhere. May need to check crankshaft endplay.

Verify that you have stock injectors. Check the injector clips and harness wires. Also take a look at the negative battery cable and make sure the engine has a good ground connection.

Trace all wires that the SAFC is tapped into and look for shorts. Personally, I would remove it completely.

 

[a7xinsane]

Definitely misfiring. Remove the belt and inspect the alternator, A/C compressor and PS pump. The squeal sounds like something is locking up somewhere. May need to check crankshaft endplay.

Verify that you have stock injectors. Check the injector clips and harness wires. Also take a look at the negative battery cable and make sure the engine has a good ground connection.

Trace all wires that the SAFC is tapped into and look for shorts. Personally, I would remove it completely.

Would it still be able to run alright if i cant tune it. the injectors are not stock neither is the turbo or fuel pump. also the squeal is the alternator because my battery was just about dead at the time. Would a camshaft position sensor cause this problem? What it was doing before it got completely muffed like you saw was that it would start idle for 3-5 seconds then die. Which is what i know is a symptom of a bad cps.

 

[delta448]

Both times that I've had a bad Cam Angle Sensor on one of my DSMs there was a period of a few days where the car would struggle to fire at all during cranking, followed shortly later by a complete no-fire at all situation.

The DSM ECU failsafe is 4 seconds after a no signal from the CAS, fuel is cut off. It is possible that an intermittent CAS problem could cause shutdown, but intermittent and CAS usually means a wiring issue. Also, that 4 seconds starts as soon as the 2G ECU sees a signal from the Crankshaft Position Sensor, so it would be more like 1-3 seconds of idle before shut-off occurred.

The low idle speed and loud squealing upon revving in your video point to a major parasitic drag on the crank. The squeal is especially worry-some. The need to adjust the throttle and SAFC immediately after starting points to a fuel delivery issue or an excessive load on the engine.

It would be a big help to see everything that the ECU is seeing and what it is trying to command.

As far as tuning, the turbo and fuel pump don't affect the startup and idle enough to cause problems if you removed the SAFC, but the non-stock injectors do. If you can find a set of stock injectors, you can remove the SAFC once they're installed. Do you have an EPROM ECU in this 95? Or do you know for sure what year the ECU is from if not? Hard to see in the video, but it appears that you have a 97+ CAS on that cylinder head.

Do you have access to a compression tester?
Have you removed the plugs and verified spark on all cylinders?

 

[a7xinsane]

no cam angle sensor behind cam gear. problem? it only has the synchronizer.

I beleive the squeal is from the alternator trying to draw a large amount of charge as the battery is a step above completely dead.

I beleive the squeal is from the alternator trying to draw a large amount of charge as the battery is a step above completely dead.

 

[pbmaxx74]

Regarding the white smoke... If you are getting white smoke out of the exhaust, but the coolant level hasn't dropped, check your brake fluid. I have seen a master cylinder blow a seal and fill the power brake booster. From there it gets sucked into the intake and smokes white. It would cloud the street if you hit the brakes hard.