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Ramchargers MAFT - short review

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i got mine installed the other day on my 1g and im still hitting fuel cut. i have all the dip switches set like the instructions told me. either way on or off it still hits fuel cut at the same RPM. all the knobs are zeroed out and all i have is an exhaust and fuel pump on a stock turbo. anyone have any feed back on why im still hitting fuel cut? im sure i tapped the right cas wire. its the one off of pin #2. i was able to run more boost on my stock MAF @ 18psi i cant even run 14psi on this 3.5 MAF. did yall run into any of these problems? any feed back would be appreciated.

thanx
fred
 
Hey,

Im installing my setup today and Im just wondering what wire you tapped off (color of the wire). I know the RPM wire is not necessary but Im going to tap it. Thanks.
 
Ive had mine installed for a couple months... works great, had it in blow thru for 2 weeks but home depot couplers didnt hold... so back to draw thru.

Ive noticed that mine bucks when you let off a hard throttle pull. Why does it do this? Or is this not associated with the maft?
 
Originally posted by t90tsi
i got mine installed the other day on my 1g and im still hitting fuel cut. i have all the dip switches set like the instructions told me. either way on or off it still hits fuel cut at the same RPM. all the knobs are zeroed out and all i have is an exhaust and fuel pump on a stock turbo. anyone have any feed back on why im still hitting fuel cut? im sure i tapped the right cas wire. its the one off of pin #2. i was able to run more boost on my stock MAF @ 18psi i cant even run 14psi on this 3.5 MAF. did yall run into any of these problems? any feed back would be appreciated.

thanx
fred

this is due to error in the MAFT's calculation. the only way to avoid this is to get bigger injectors to fool the ECU, since it is getting incorrect data from the MAF.
 
I recently put in my maf and translator, and I am using the blow thru setup. I went to a muffler shop and got a piece of 3 inch exhaust bent for an intake. HOwever, on my old intake there is a hose comin from the transmission area, I believe that it is a vent for the tranny but I am not sure. Do I need to cap this hose off or can I leave it hangin.
Thanx
Justin
 
Originally posted by Spdrcr7882
I recently put in my maf and translator, and I am using the blow thru setup. I went to a muffler shop and got a piece of 3 inch exhaust bent for an intake. HOwever, on my old intake there is a hose comin from the transmission area, I believe that it is a vent for the tranny but I am not sure. Do I need to cap this hose off or can I leave it hangin.
Thanx
Justin

The hose is for the charcoal canister, you need to cap it off.
 
Originally posted by Benji


The hose is for the charcoal canister, you need to cap it off.

really?..i left this hanging and my car has been acting weird ever since..what kindve problems will come about this if not capped off?..thanks
chris
 
You know, I am not quite sure how badly it would affect anything. Some people say cap it, some people say to vent it underneath the car so no fumes get into the intake. I am not sure which one is the correct answer and I am not sure there is a correct answer, however, I do know that my car idled better with it capped off then it being vented.

This is using a MAF-T in blow through though so it is not unmetered air anyways.
 
I believe I have found a good solution for people having fuel cut with the GM MAFT.

My mods are: 2.5" turbo back exh. 16G turbo, GM MAFT, 2.5" upper and lower IC pipes, 2g exh. mani. SAFC, 2600 clutch, Manual Joe P boost cont.... etc etc.

Once my car started running better it decided it would fuel cut on me at around 4500 rpm at WOT. I tried to get around this but I couldnt figure out how unless I upgraded to 550 injectors.

A friend of mine gave me the idea that if you could tell the ecu that there is less air flowing through the maf then fuel cut would disappear for a while...

The only way I could think of is to switch the base setting on the Translator from position 0 -(450 injectors-stock) to something smaller like 425 or 400. Click the base setting to a smaller injector size and that should meter less air/fuel ratio... Its complicated and I still comfuse myself when it comes to how it works but basically the ECU adds fuel to compensate for the smaller injector selection.

My duty cycle while Fuel cutting was around 100, now at WOT it went down to around 80, I did lower the boost down 2 psi form where it was when I was cutting, but only because on the street my car feels faster at 13psi then it did around 15-16 and had problems.

With 110 leaded gas I should have no problems with fuel cut, I hope. Havent tried it out yet but will be heading to the track on Oct. 11th.

-Peter
 
Originally posted by Kevin90GSX
Help! What color is the CAS rpm wire on a 90... im at this point and Im stuck.

Thanks!

Same here, guess it's time to dig up the electrical repair manual...
 
Originally posted by Inwo
Same here, guess it's time to dig up the electrical repair manual...

On the 1990's the White wire is the one you want to tap on the cas. 1991-1994 is the smaller of 2 black wires, pin #2.
 
Originally posted by Benji


On the 1990's the White wire is the one you want to tap on the cas. 1991-1994 is the smaller of 2 black wires, pin #2.

Ah, great, thanks!
 
Originally posted by Ramchargers
DR. Ziplock, if you don't mind please forward to me or post the difference you see tuning wise once you descreen the MAF. I would just do it considering where you are at now. I suspect you will have to add a few % of fuel is all. Also, did you have to readjust your waste gate and did you see any difference in boost after the install I would suspect it would go up a couple lbs? Thanks for the help and review.
Mike Licht


roughly how accurate is the maf transalator to the 1 g mas aand the kramans closely because i am having trouble finding ho much fuel i need to get my car to run right
8.5:1 comp
maf blow thru
650cc injectors
14b
 
is there convincing evidence that the Translator works better than the 2nd Gen Maf ? A comment from friend made me want to know the facts
 
Since I am to lazy to read this whole thread.


Why did you not go with a blow threw setup? if your BOV was a problem causeing the car to buck, surely that would help.
 
Originally posted by GSXTBOY I believe I have found a good solution for people having fuel cut with the GM MAFT.

No you didn't.


A friend of mine gave me the idea that if you could tell the ecu that there is less air flowing through the maf then fuel cut would disappear for a while...

This is not a new idea.

The only way I could think of is to switch the base setting on the Translator from position 0 -(450 injectors-stock) to something smaller like 425 or 400. Click the base setting to a smaller injector size and that should meter less air/fuel ratio... Its complicated and I still comfuse myself when it comes to how it works but basically the ECU adds fuel to compensate for the smaller injector selection.

Wrong. If you set the base to 425 or 450, the MAFT will send a larger airflow signal to the ECU, and the ECU wil think that you have more airflow.

Think about it. With a smaller injector, you need more airflow, so you get a longer pulsewidth, so that the smaller injector can shoot enough fuel.

The ECU adds fuel because it thinks you're pulling more air.


My duty cycle while Fuel cutting was around 100, now at WOT it went down to around 80, I did lower the boost down 2 psi form where it was when I was cutting, but only because on the street my car feels faster at 13psi then it did around 15-16 and had problems.

There is your solution, you turned the boost down. You can't change two things and then try to make a comparison!

The solution was turning the boost down, changing the base setting to 425's or 400's would only make fuel cut worse.


With 110 leaded gas I should have no problems with fuel cut, I hope. Havent tried it out yet but will be heading to the track on Oct. 11th.

On race gas you can usually lean it out enough to be fine.
 
Originally posted by FOGdarter
is there convincing evidence that the Translator works better than the 2nd Gen Maf ? A comment from friend made me want to know the facts

It works better than a 2g Maf for higher power cars..

As long as you don't overun the 2g maf there are other ways to do things. For cars that don't overrun some shops say not to waste the time and money with a MAFT.. Just use a SFAC

It can compensate a bit for injectors as does a piggyback... Especially if you take the time to find high speed injectors...

They have a ligher pintle or disc and other attributes... You can indeed have 550's with the same dead time as oe 450's... They just aren't cheap...

I have one and it's not really a tuning tool for me more of a means by which to run a better maf.. Once I get the standalone figured out better I should actually be able to bypass the translator all together and run the GM mas right to the stand alone... For now I have all the dials at zero and am geting the std alone tommarow... This may be confusing but the dials do allow a bit of output scaling... For instance I can use it to scale the output of the sensor such that the full range output range is being used... Even with a standalone the dials could be somewhat usefull... Not to actually tune but to scale and/or shift the sensor output up or down to make the most use of the possible inputs to the ECU for the map.

I'm trying to do something a little funky and untested by DSMers in some aspects so I just spell out the FYI on the capabilities of the components.

Pulling alot of air or want to vent? MAFT

No? 2G MAS
 
i know that if somebody dont take there time putting in the trans that they might hook up the 1g plug backwards because it fits either way...
 
I spent this morning at TurboTrix with my 1G GSX on the dyno. Here is a Dyno chart of a well tuned, un-hacked 2G MAS in a 1G using the SAFCII only. Then a graph of a GM 3.5" MAS and translator, pull thru setup fine tuned with the SAFCII. The 2G MAS run was pig rich according to the wideband O2, but still produced decent HP numbers. The run with the GM MAS was easier to lean out to about 11.5. Both runs were at 20psi with 100 octane Cam2 race gas. The numbers were not to bad for an Automatic AWD tranny. I know my stock SMIC heat soaked after each run so a cool down period was necessary. With a FMIC im sure gains will be better.
Run-005 is the 2G MAS
Run-009 is the GM MAS
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