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Maft ??

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shortydtp

15+ Year Contributor
488
11
May 1, 2005
Phoenix, Arizona
aright guys first of all my car profile is up to date exept i sold the safcII yesterday due I am going dsmlink, but i am waiting on eprom ecu.

now question is: when you set the base setting for the inyectors is it really acurate??? reason why is because i have set the base setting to 660cc and the car don't even start. but if i set it to 740cc base setting car idle, and runs fine with L80 M90 H87 trims wich still rich. on the settings. Are really what they say on the instruction book , or something wrong with my MAFT or anything else that might be wrong? BTW idle mid and wot nobs are zet to zero, just using base setting.

thanks!!

jose:p
 
I am not sure what brand 660cc injectors you have, but I do know my 650cc PTE injectors had a tremendously high dead time. That could only be resolved by running a high setting on my idle knob. In fact, just like you, I could only get them to idle by either running a base setting for a larger injector or running a high setting for the idle knob.

Turn your idle knob to 7 or 6 and see if that gets you to run at idle correctly. Adjustment of idle, mid, and WOT adjustments are a part of tuning your base settings.
 
i had to set mine to 980s or somthing like that for it to comp. for my 850s
 
Openoner said:
i had to set mine to 980s or somthing like that for it to comp. for my 850s

Weird, from my experience, and many others I know, they have to set the MAF-T considerably lower than there actual injector size. I installed 650's and had to set the base to 550's and work from there. With it set to 650s the car started and bogged than died. So, for the thread starter I recommend you set the base to about 550-560cc's and see how it runs than tune the idle and so on from there.
 
xcelr8n said:
Weird, from my experience, and many others I know, they have to set the MAF-T considerably lower than there actual injector size. I installed 650's and had to set the base to 550's and work from there. With it set to 650s the car started and bogged than died. So, for the thread starter I recommend you set the base to about 550-560cc's and see how it runs than tune the idle and so on from there.

If he has 650s w/ a large deadtime then he will idle fine and then run super rich at 3000+ rpms where deadtmes don't have such a drastic affect. Better to set them correctly. Then, tune out the problem which is deadtime; not cancel out the dead time problem by creating another one. . . Just a thought.
 
Agreed, After getting my ECU chip set to compensate properly for the injectors and deadtime, and setting the MAF-T to 0 for the base, the car ran smoother/nicer all around. Proper compensation is a much better method than lying to the ECU through a piggyback of sorts.
 
when useing an afc and lying to your ecu isnt always that bad, because the ecu doesnt think airflow isnt that high, so it looks at a different timing map which includes higher timing advancements :thumb: i like that as long as you keep the knock down
 
xcelr8n said:
Agreed, After getting my ECU chip set to compensate properly for the injectors and deadtime, and setting the MAF-T to 0 for the base, the car ran smoother/nicer all around. Proper compensation is a much better method than lying to the ECU through a piggyback of sorts.

HA! yup. Ultimately, fooling the ecu becomes a problem to cover a problem when you're running big injectors necessary for sizable turbos and boost. Wasn't tuning the car much easier once the ecu realized that you actually have 650s installed?
 
dsm-onster said:
HA! yup. Ultimately, fooling the ecu becomes a problem to cover a problem when you're running big injectors necessary for sizable turbos and boost. Wasn't tuning the car much easier once the ecu realized that you actually have 650s installed?
There was a 2 week window without the chip only after the injectors, so I never "tuned" it without the chip so to speak, so that I can't fully answer. For those two weeks I just "drove". I did notice a fair increase in fuel economy for normal driving though, after chip install..
 
xcelr8n said:
There was a 2 week window without the chip only after the injectors, so I never "tuned" it without the chip so to speak, so that I can't fully answer. For those two weeks I just "drove". I did notice a fair increase in fuel economy for normal driving though, after chip install..

Tuning my PTE 650s with MAFt was a truely a$$ experience. But I did finally get them tuned. It is very possible. But annoying.
 
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