Quarantine Questions

[jgio213]

Evening Gents,

So with all the quarantine stuff going on I've been doing a lot of tinkering on my 2G and cleaning things up and such. This season there were big plans to swap in the freshly built motor I've got waiting and adding my FMIC, and upgrading to the 20G turbo. Currently car is tuned, and runs 20lbs on a 16g and runs incredibly well with that. I've got all the supporting mods needed to go for my 400+ goal with the new motor and turbo setup i believe.

My question is, I've been getting a bit impatient and the shop I use for tuning and any internal engine work is not accepting new projects due to the corona stuff. So I'm wondering if I can get away with doing the FMIC install and adding the 20G on my car now, and eventually once the shop is accepting new projects, bring it down for the motor swap and new tune. I'm more than confidant about doing the FMIC and Turbo swap myself, but I am absolutely lost in the tuning world and don't want to damage the old motor in any way and of course would like to drive it to the shop for the motor swap in the near future hopefully. I should add that the reason I want to throw the 20G on is because the current J-pipe on the 16G does not look like it will work with my FMIC kit.

Doing the FMIC would save me a little labor costs obviously and gives me a little project to do in the next few days, but the priority is keeping the old motor healthy and keeping the car driveable until I can get it to the shop. Its not my daily but I do drive it frequently. Perhaps turn down the boost to around 15lbs to be a little more conservative until it's retuned? Thanks in advance for the advice.

Thanks
John

 

[1cleangsx]

Do you have ecmlink? It all comes down to airflow, depending on the 16g you have, the 20g is good for what like another 6 to 10 lb per min? As long as your not maxing out your injectors or running aggressive timing your fine, you won’t see any more airflow until a certain psi, the motor doesn’t care what turbo you have, just start low and work your way up

 

[95_gsx_2g]

Make sure to just take things easy and keep and eye on everything. Also just thought I'd chime in and share that Kevin Jewer does great tuning! He specializes in ecmlink remote tunes/Dsms and is currently tuning my fully built 2g! Thought I'd share as I was never a huge fan of dyno tuning in all honesty.

 

[motomattx]

You should be fine to do that no problem if you stick to your plan.

 

[jgio213]

Make sure to just take things easy and keep and eye on everything. Also just thought I'd chime in and share that Kevin Jewer does great tuning! He specializes in ecmlink remote tunes/Dsms and is currently tuning my fully built 2g! Thought I'd share as I was never a huge fan of dyno tuning in all honesty.

Thanks for the feedback. I currently run the blackbox ecu and car is tuned off of ceddymods so I'm not sure about remote tuning options and such with that setup. Appreciate the shout out though thanks!

 

[jgio213]

Do you have ecmlink? It all comes down to airflow, depending on the 16g you have, the 20g is good for what like another 6 to 10 lb per min? As long as your not maxing out your injectors or running aggressive timing your fine, you won’t see any more airflow until a certain psi, the motor doesn’t care what turbo you have, just start low and work your way up

I still run off the blackbox and car is tuned through ceddymods. And yea the plan would be to stay pretty conservative and turn the boost down a bit until its ready to be tuned properly.

 

[JusMX141]

The 20G compressor is just a higher-trim compressor than a 16G...they both have a 68mm exducer spec but the 20G is roughly 4mm larger on the inducer and good for varying amounts of positive airflow over the 16G at higher boost depending if the compressor is cast or billet as well as what turbine it's paired to in addition to your supporting mods and rev limit. At lower boost levels your peak airflow numbers may be about the same as a 16G, but the air mass the 20G compressor is moving is cooler and less-dense...so that coupled with the addition of a FMIC, which will cool the air charge even more, is where you're going to run into an issue with lack of fuel...so backing the boost level down to a safer level and slowly working up again is highly-recommended.

But as far as fitment goes you can bolt the 20G and FMIC on at any time as long as you don't overpower your current fuel system mods.

 

[jgio213]

The 20G compressor is just a higher-trim compressor than a 16G...they both have a 68mm exducer spec but the 20G is roughly 4mm larger on the inducer and good for varying amounts of positive airflow over the 16G at higher boost depending if the compressor is cast or billet as well as what turbine it's paired to in addition to your supporting mods and rev limit. At lower boost levels your peak airflow numbers may be about the same as a 16G, but the air mass the 20G compressor is moving is cooler and less-dense...so that coupled with the addition of a FMIC, which will cool the air charge even more, is where you're going to run into an issue with lack of fuel...so backing the boost level down to a safer level and slowly working up again is highly-recommended.

But as far as fitment goes you can bolt the 20G and FMIC on at any time as long as you don't overpower your current fuel system mods.

Good info, thanks dude. Got to spend about 8 hours today messing around with the car. So the new turbo setup is mounted up and looks awesome and got the FMIC bolted where I want it. Hopefully will have it all back together on wednesday and can go for a startup!