putting on a 16g.. any advice??!!

[xucpxeclipsex]

hows it going.. well im putting on my 16g this weekend and i was wondering if anyone had any advice for me.. thanx.. it would be a big help

 

[Amazin' Wasian]

Its a pretty straight forward install, just make sure you use a new turbo gasket. All in all its pretty easy. goodluck

-nick-

 

[MrBoxx]

1. Use lots of WD40 or PB Blast or whatever penetrating lubricant you choose on your turbo bolts, exhaust bolts, etc.

2. Use a little anti-seize on all the bolts when you're putting things together.

3. Remember to prime the turbo with oil before you start up the car. Do so by removing the two triangular coil plugs and cranking the car over a few times. Failure to do so may result in a nice, shiny, brand-new, totally seized-up turbo.

4. Take your time doing things and don't rush.

 

[xucpxeclipsex]

and what about how the 16g connects to the intercooler piping??.. do i have to go to a muffler shop to get that flange made and connected to the turbo??.. or how does that work?.. how did everyone else do it??

 

[flacopower]

You would need a J-pipe.. you have one right? are you reusing the t25 water and oil lines?

 

[96whgsx]

Something I learned about the front o2 sensor: Disconnect the o2's harness (near the corner of the block, you'll see it) and then just take it off when it is out of the car. Much more room but you do need something to bolt it onto to keep it in place. Also, taking off the manifold to pull the turbo makes the turbo-removal part easier.

And I would buy an oil feed line that goes to the oil filter housing, if you didn't already.

 

[Boost Demon]

If your talking about the j-pipe then you should be able to get that at RRE they also have a lower intercooler pipe if your still going back to the stock unit.
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/2g16ginstallkit.htm

Also I would have to second the use of copious amounts of penetrating oil. I took the heat shield off and got the 3-bolts and stud holding the turbo to the manifold (buy another bolt from RRE while your at it too to replace the stud), the exhaust flange bolts, O2 sensor housing bolts, and manifold bolts. I did this when the bolts were hot and then after they had cooled just to be sure and had no problems taking any out. I would also recommend putting new manifold to head bolts or getting upgraded bolts from FFWD here, I had one snap while torqing it onWTF :
http://www.ffwdconnection.com/boltkits.shtml

I pulled the engine fuse in the engine bay and then tried to start the car 3 seperate times for no more than 5-7 seconds each time to prime the turbo. Don't be alarmed once you replace the fuse and start the car and see what looks like steam rising up, it's just the penetrating oils/anti-sieze stuff heating up. What you want to look for primarily is any coolant or oil leaks (I had one from my oil feed line because I didn't tighten the line to the fitting good enough). I would then listen for exhaust leaks around the manifold/o2 housing/down pipe flanges. Just basically give every bolt a good once over along with all the intercooler pipes fittings from the get go before the car is started and you should be good. Good luck

 

[xucpxeclipsex]

yeah.. well i just ordered the j pipe.. and i heard that its good to take out the radiator when im doing it so i have some more room?.. did any of you guys do that??.. and all of the bolts came with the kit so i shouldnt have to worry about that.. and im using the stock oil and water lines.. and yeah.. anything else would be helpful..

 

[xucpxeclipsex]

oh yeah.. and how do i find out how much i have to torque the bolts??

 

[MrBoxx]

-Manifold to turbo bolts - 40-45 ft/lbs. Use the two cup-style washers per bolt, with the textured sides facing the head and the manifold, respectively.

-Front water line- 22ft/lbs

-Oil feed on top - 19ft/lbs

-Oil drain - 14 ft/lbs (be careful not to strip them)

I will second the use of a turbo-mani bolt in place of the stud. It will make things so much easier for you in the future and for the price of one, it's worth it to do it now.

A new SS oil feed line also makes life MUCH easier and is a good investment, since it's larger than the stock line and won't have years of build-up in it. You can find one at RRE, SBR, or just about any other good DSM vendor. I would reccommend buying a new oil feed line, but if you absolutely have to or want to, the stock line should work fine.

You don't HAVE to take out the radiator, but since you've probably already drained the coolant, if you want to make things easier, you CAN. I just took out my fans and that was good enough to get the old turbo out and the new one in.

Regarding water lines: If you're reusing the stock water lines and they need to be bent to work, a tip I learned from someone here is to insert a thick gauge coated wire, like you'd use to install an aftermarket amplifier, into the water pipe, then bend it. The wire should keep the pipe from buckling and kinking. Then remove the wire and install.

 

[Flash]

I just used on impact to tighten all my bolts. Made life easier.
Don't forget to use telfon tape to wrap the threads with! I speak from experience. I leaked from the only spot I didn't use teflon tape on the threads. And it was just a huge pain. So do it right the first time!

 

[MrBoxx]

Oh, and speaking from experience, when you take off the oil drain pipe, make sure you get all of the old gasket OFF the oil pan before putting a new gasket on. If you don't, it could start leaking. And then you have to take it off again and clean it. And it's a pain in the ass.

 

[Flash]

I used a wire wheel on my bench grinder to shave off the old gasket. It made it all very nice. It was super easy too. At first I started to pick on the old gaskets with a flat head screw driver then I just used the wire wheel. But that's only because both gaskets came off stuck to my return line.

 

[jhines]

Also, the bolts that go into the bottom of the turbo as a drain-off are slightly larger than the stock bolts that held it up to the t-25. If I am not mistaken, I believe that they end up being the same size as the bolts that go into the oil pan from the drain tube. So basically, you will need to hone out the holes on the drain pipe to make them larger. But yea, just use a good amount of anti-size, but not the copper stuff.....it's the other kind, can't remember right off what the compounds are, but that's the one you want. And yes, the complete install kit from RRE or SBR is very helpful.....new gaskets, j-pipe, intercooler pipe, clamps, connectors, oil feed line......the whole deal!! It's a good kit, very much worth the money! But yea....the install shouldn't be all that bad for you, maybe 4 hours or so at tops with removal and new installation. Use lots of antisieze, rung off bolts are NOT fun to tap out of the parts, trust me!!
Aight man, good luck and have fun!!
-Hines

Oh yea, I dunno if you are, but if you run the EVO III 16G O2 housing with the setup, minor exhaust mods will have to be made to the downpipe because the EVO III housing has a slanted flange on it instead of flat like the t-25.

 

[xucpxeclipsex]

thanx fellas.. all of that really helps.. i appreciate it.. oh yea.. one more thing.. should i take off the exhaust manifold to put the turbo on or just work on it with the manifold on..

 

[MrBoxx]

You can do it all without removing the manifold. You can do most of the work by either pulling the new turbo from below or squeezing it in from above, whichever you think would be easiest in your case.

 

[Wufei]

It's kind of a trade-off, since if you go from the top you have to take off the exhaust manifold, but if you go from the bottom you have to unbolt the downpipe and take off the O2 housing.

Just PBBlast everything a few days ahead of time.