Prothane Motor Mounts - help

[unplugme71]

The timing belt side wasn't too bad. Took a little while getting the rubber out, but after that it was easy.

My front mount rubber bushing is shot. I'm not sure if I should just pop in the bushing and re-install or get it replaced first.

The transmission side mount broke while trying to hammer out the inner ring. Ended up cracking one of the mounting holes when gripped to the vise. Eeeek!

The rear mount is still attached to the motor, not sure what's the best way to get this one out.

As of now, I have the battery out, throttle body elbow off, so there's room to see it. However, I still have 2 coolant lines from the firewall in the way, 2 shifter cables, fuel filter, and that big black canister and battery mount in the way. I'm sure there's more stuff restricting access.

Not sure if its easier to get to from the bottom of the car, but right now its only on jackstands so not going to be able to get it onto a lift to make it easier.

How should I proceed with the rear mount?

Should I replace the front mount since the rubber bushing is shot, or will it not matter with the prothane mount?

Also, if anyone is located in central NJ and wants to help out with the rear, let me know by PM with ## number. I'll get you a six pack and some cash if you want.
Thanks!

 

[crash89]

Yes, replace the broken front motor mount. What I do when I need to take out the rear mount is take all three bolts out that hold the mount to the body, then roll it up and around the bracket and just pull it out through the coolant lines and shifter cables. You might want to remove the battery tray and support as well just to get a little more room! Its pretty easy to reach back there with a 6" extension and a 14mm socket!

 

[Alan11]

For the rear mount, what i did was to remove the whole bracket ...i pulled it out from the bottom of the car, and my transfer case was in the way.It should be easier for you to pull it from the bottom. It will be a PITA to try and remove it with the 2 clutch cables, the heater hoses, fuel filter, etc etc. I also had to remove my down pipe.

It took me about 5 hours to finish, all because of the rear mount. Lol.
And you are going to have to replace the front mount.

 

[agentorange313]

to be honest, to get to that back mount without taking out the motor is going to be a major PITA!

I tried to do it, and gave up half way through, I figured i would just wait til I took out the block. The reason for this is because you need to remove a cross member to get to it. To remove that, you need to drop the exhaust downpipe and transfer case. When I had to rebuild my block, I did it then, but mine wasnt shot yet.

I just read your post again, I am in central jersey, new brunswick area. I can help you out man.

 

[unplugme71]

to be honest, to get to that back mount without taking out the motor is going to be a major PITA!

I tried to do it, and gave up half way through, I figured i would just wait til I took out the block. The reason for this is because you need to remove a cross member to get to it. To remove that, you need to drop the exhaust downpipe and transfer case. When I had to rebuild my block, I did it then, but mine wasnt shot yet.

I just read your post again, I am in central jersey, new brunswick area. I can help you out man.

Sweet, can you swing by tomorrow or next Saturday?


and I already got a lot of things removed

- front mount
- front subframe or cross bar - not sure what its called
- transmission mount
- battery
- battery tray
- tb elbow

its definitely a lot more accessible, but the coolant and throttle cables are still in the way.

I will try removing the mount from the frame and swing it upwards. We'll see how that goes.

and my car is FWD.. so no t-case in the way

 

[crash89]

to be honest, to get to that back mount without taking out the motor is going to be a major PITA!.

Its really not that bad. I did all four of my mounts in 2.5 hours maybe three. That includes taking the left and right mounts out and removing the old mount to put the solid inserts in.

The hardest part for the rear mount was getting the three holes to line back up so you dont strip out the bolt when putting it back together. But, with a jack and some manhandling you can make it work. Just take the jack and lift up the trans a little bit so there isnt a load on the mount, then take the three bolts holding the mount out, then the center bolt. To get the mount to come to the top of the bracket you may need to pull on the fuel filter slightly, but nothing to extreme. Not that bad at all.