Project: I like torque! 2.3L+Cyclone+divided hx35 (Complete build part 3)

[talonDSMerr]

This is my custom v-band o2/downpipe for the Holset's non-wastegated 12cm^2 turbine housing. I performed all the cutting and fitting, taped it together, then took it to my local welder to finish the job. Boy does he do good work Not the funnest part of the build, but, I am very proud of this piece. It definitely took many hours to get the fitment perfect, and worth every effort.

Bolted everything back up, and it started on the 2nd try on E85 The engine bay isn't the prettiest thing to look at by far, but it serves its purpose to a tee.

As of now, the engine is being broken in, but I notice it is running a little hot so I will be adding a 10" flex-a-lite slim fan to the driver side radiator. The paint on my hood is also beginning to bubble from the heat given off by the turbo manifold, so some DEI lava rock heat wrap and a turbo blanket are on the way as well.

As far as initial impressions? Absolutely amazing.


Read Part 1 of this build here

Read Part 2 of this build here

 

[1990AWD]

Sweet ride, that thing must be a monster on the street. When do you hit full boost? And what boost are you running?

 

[talonDSMerr]

Thanks, it's running 20psi wastegate pressure right now. I haven't a clue when full boost is hit, I've been too busy watching the oil pressure gauge and tach. Also having some clutch slipping problems preventing me from opening it up 100%. Hoping that it will fix itself after the clutch break-in period.

 

[dsmtwins2g]

looks awsome man

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

Your supposed to try and stay out of boost for the first 500 miles of the clutch break-in, wouldn't be surprised if the clutch is fried or you messed up the break-in. TMZ is VERY anal on the clutch break-in of the SB clutches and give you very explicit instructions on it. Cool build though, I would have gone with a twin disc setup to be honest. You may regret it down the road..

 

[talonDSMerr]

You're also (arguably) supposed to load the motor for the first 20-30 miles for the engine break-in. The way I chose to break in my motor conflicted with the way the clutch should have been broken in. In hindsight, I should have used a clutch that already had enough miles on it that it wouldn't need breaking in, but past that point, I would rather be replacing a clutch in the near future than tearing a motor down due to poor ring seal.

I've contacted Tim Zimmer at TMZ about it and yes, he wasn't pleased with the way I went about doing it. In his words, the clutch is likely salvageable if I take it easy on it for around 1000 miles or so. If not, I'll have to buy another. Lesson learned though, and thanks for the input. I decided against the twin disc because of streetability, which was the foundation of this build. With Mr. Zimmer claiming this disc can hold 550-600ft-lbs, I didn't see the need to step up to a twin disc.

 

[SOADweskey]

I think you made a good choice not going with a twin disk. I just had my trans rebuilt and the first thing Jon at TRE asked me was how ling I had been running a twin disk. It wasn't the reason my trans broke but he could see wear on the input shaft splines, and apparently there was visible wear on both first and second gear from the shock transmitted through the solid disks.

I've gone back to a single sprung hub clutch since my car is my DD and I would rather replace a clutch than do another $2300 trans rebuild. I look forward to seeing how that SB clutch works for you. After my current 2600 and 6-puck I will probably try one of those out.

 

[talonDSMerr]

I haven't heard of twin discs wearing input shaft splines like that before, but now that you bring it up, I'm glad I stuck with the single disc. The benefits of a twin disc, I won't be taking advantage of with my goals and the purpose of this car. It's always easy to get caught up in the hype of twin discs because they have twice the friction surfaces and can hold gobs more torque than single discs, but it's also important to be able to step back and realize how a certain part fits in the application.

I agree, replacing a clutch is, by far, a better option than replacing a built transmission. It is, after all, a wear item. I'll definitely post results on how the SB kevlar clutch performs after break-in. I may have to get another one because I didn't exactly follow the break-in procedure for the first 40 miles correctly for this one, but time will tell.

 

[907dsm]

Downpipe looks amazing man, did you weld it up yourself?? Can you make me one?? Seriously!! Also how is your air filter holding up in the rain??

 

[talonDSMerr]

Thanks! I only did the cutting and fitting for the downpipe. Once I had it the way I wanted, I taped it together and marked the pieces and took it to a local welder, who made it look absolutely amazing. It took me a decent amount of time to make, but you could definitely do it yourself if you wanted to. It's very rewarding in the end.

The air filter holds up fine in the rain. I don't drive through puddles or lakes though.

 

[SOADweskey]

Quarter Master developed their new Gear drive twin disk hub to prevent input shaft wear. The problem with the old design is that each disk still weighs a good amount and since there are two separate disks on the input shaft the hubs each cover less of the shaft putting more stress on the splines.

If I ever go back to a twin I will probably go with the QM setup but I think I will keep it single since I don't plan on going much above the 448 lb-ft of torque I make now.

 

[97gst_spyder]

Any more updates?