The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

problems with my 1st gen

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ryu 2042

15+ Year Contributor
62
0
Mar 23, 2008
Sevier, Tennessee
It's pretty easy installing an oiler cooler. Just buy the oil cooler and go to a auto shopper and buy the Haynes manual for your car. It will tell you how to do it. As for the intercooler it is need custom piping.
 
Did they tell you why they think you need an external oil cooler, because from my knowledge its not really a necessary modification until high power numbers made.
 
yea its crazy expensive. thats why i passed on that. well i didnt think that i needed one either but they said that i was originally suppose to have one with my engine so i wasn't sure...
 
I would just go to the junkyard or look in the classifieds for a 90 external setup. If you later need a bigger cooler, which most won't, then you can just get -an lines and a big cooler online. As of now, you'll just need the oil filter housing, lines and cooler from a 90. Good luck!
 
why exactly did they tell you that you NEED an external oil cooler? Although alot of cars upgrade to externall oil coolers, alot of people on here (including myself) dont run one at all.
 
As Blownturbotsi said...you can pick up a '90 oil cooler for pretty cheap. You would get the filter housing, core and lines. An oil cooler would be a good idea considering you turbocharged your motor. Many of the vendors sell the oil filter housing that you would need. Then you could buy a oil cooler core and the lines yourself. Derale and Earls make very good oil coolers.
 
so you guys dont think much of the stuff that i found on ebay i'm guessin?? (i have a link to it on my first post...)

any feed back at all on that stuff i found would be greatly appreciated good, bad does not matter just something. i dont want to get it if its not worth it...
 
so you guys dont think much of the stuff that i found on ebay i'm guessin?? (i have a link to it on my first post...)

Seems and looks awfully inexpensive(cheap) to me . I never liked to put cheap stuff on something I rely on so much .
 
What turbo are you running? If you are running a MHI type turbo, I would skip the oil cooler and just add the front mount. The MHI type turbos are liquid cooled and don't heat the oil up as much. If you are running a Garrett style, most are oil cooled and a oil cooler is a very good idea. Search around about the front mount, there are many threads about ebay ones and a LOT of the members here are running them with good results. Just be prepared to make your own pipes.
 
Look into an evo 8 front mount their usually like $100 dollars and are excellent upgrades support a 50 trim easy. On my 2.3 I use a 90 filter housing with an fittings, steel braided line and a mocal cooler.:laser:
 
thanks for the feed back guys. I'm going to look around to see if there is a place near by that i could get some custom piping from then see where it goes from there. But now i have a new problem..:cry: ok so i just got it out from the dealership (my dad insists on taking it to Mitsu dealership) and paid like 1200$ to get some work done. My car seems to run fine on the way back to town i spank a mustang gt and I'm feeling pretty good. After work on the way home as i was stopping at some red lights i notice that my oil light comes on and it feels like my car is about to die...but then the light turns right back off when i start to go. while I'm about to park it at my house I'm backing up and i realize that when I turn my wheel all they way left or right the oil light once again turns on and if i hold it there my car dies... so by this point I'm pretty upset :mad: having spent so much money and now i have a new problem.I give my car a few hours then go back outside to crank it up. It starts then dies...so i give it a little gas after i start it then it idles on its own. Then i try to turn on the headlight and the lights inside the car and they don't turn on, but the fog lights worked.Before i took my car to the dealership the battery had a draw and it kept draining and now i have this problem this might be dumb but could these problems be because of bad ground wires?:confused: any and all comments greatly appreciated thanks

Bryan:dsm:

and I'm running a stock turbo in the JDM 4G63T i think its a 14b not entirely sure

any ideas at all?:confused:

ok well regarding the problem that i wrote about yesterday i started up my car today and it fired right up no problem the thing is my headlights and interior lights still do not work, but my fog lights do, and today when i turned my wheel the car idled funny it lowered its rpms... so any ideas why? thanks Bryan:dsm:
 
What work did the dealership do to the car? The only way to find a draw on the battery is to take a digital multimeter and start going through each circuit and isolate it from there. It is sometimes a time consuming process. When the car was converted to turbo was the harness changed or cut up and spliced? It sounds like you have a major electrical problem. If you have a basic understanding of electrical circuits, a complete wiring diagram and a multimeter you can start tracking it down yourself, if not I would suggest that you take it somewhere that does electrical work on a daily basis.
 
ok well its a first gen gs which i found out later turned into the gst right? so its always been turbo'd i need to change that to a gst on my profile...they changed my o2 censor and my crank angle sensor and replaced my distributor. Also new question i've been reading about crankwalk and i just had to have my crank angle sensor replaced and i hear ticking when i start up my car. I'm pretty sure that it is not my lifters i have plenty of oil. could i be at risk of having crankwalk? :cry:
 
Crankwalk is more of a problem with 2g engines. Easy to check and see if you have crank movement. The tick is most likely just lifters and a problem with all dsm's. 3g lifters will solve that problem. You said that they changed your distibutor? That is not possible as we don't have distributors. If it has a distributor it's a 4g37 not a 4g63 and it certainly didn't come with a turbo.
 
ok thats what i thought. but that is what the guy said at the dealership. i know for a fact that i have a JDM 4g63T motor. this is exactly what my receipt says...

Cel code 11 and 44 stored.

1 MD1488208 sensor, Eng Electric Con what is this:confused:

1 Md148855 sensor Eng Crank angle

and the O2 censor

to fix grand total $1150.02
 
My friend google has never heard of MD1488208, but "Eng Electric Con" sounds like they replaced some type of engine electrical connector (sensor?), so you might want to go back to the dealership and find out exactly what the hell they did. They probably changed something they shouldn't have, to charge you more. Go to the dealership and find out about this "eng electric con" and find out what they did, that might be the easiest way to solve your problem.
 
thats what i am doing. I am taking it back to them on Thursday and I complained enough to where they are going to fix it for free.I'll let you know what happens.
Bryan:dsm:

As i said in the post above, I am taking my car to the dealership (Satan) tomorrow to see whats going on. But tonight i went out to my car to grab something and my interior and head lights and locks were working again...my question is how are these connected and by what?

ok figured out the problem with my headlights. It turned out to be my headlight relay...:p
 
ok so i recently got a chrome air intake pipe and removed my MBC so i can now run stock boost. I would like to know how to recirculate my greddy type s BOV i know there is a million threads on how to but all i need to know is where exactly does the line from the 2nd nipple of the BOV get connected back to? I"ve read alot today trying to find out where this line goes but i have not been able to successfully find out where it goes...:coy:The reason being that i want to recirculate is because my CEL is on now and also my car bucks every now and then. I"m thinking that this is do to the BOV currently being vented to the atmosphere. Please correct me if i'm wrong

thanks Bryan:dsm:
 
ok so i recently got a chrome air intake pipe and removed my MBC so i can now run stock boost. I would like to know how to recirculate my greddy type s BOV i know there is a million threads on how to but all i need to know is where exactly does the line from the 2nd nipple of the BOV get connected back to? I"ve read alot today trying to find out where this line goes but i have not been able to successfully find out where it goes...:coy:The reason being that i want to recirculate is because my CEL is on now and also my car bucks every now and then. I"m thinking that this is do to the BOV currently being vented to the atmosphere. Please correct me if i'm wrong

thanks Bryan:dsm:

You dont need to hook that bottom one up to anything, leave it be.

When does it buck, letting off the gas or when in wot?
 
well it does not do it alot but it happens when i get on the gas a little actaully. I was at a red light and as i was shifting into 2nd i was just going slowly and it bucked, then it was ok again. My CEL is on though, that bugs me. Also if i don't have to hook up that 2nd line how the heck to i recirculate it then? i thought that that was the line that goes back to the intake manifold:confused:... actually now that i think about it, it buck while i was in WOT once...
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top