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Post your PTE 6152e DYNO and 1/4 E.T. #'s

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I spoke to PTE when I bought my scm6152e they told me from the oil filter housing and that oil pressure should not exceed 80psi.
 
I spoke to PTE when I bought my scm6152e they told me from the oil filter housing and that oil pressure should not exceed 80psi.

Depending on the RPM you're intending to run and the condition of the bottom end, it is most likely that you will be way over 80PSI at the housing.
 
Does a 3065 count in this, since it's pretty damn close to the same turbo.

The 3065 is a BB CHRA and they(FP) probably want you to take the oil feed from the head where it's much lower pressure. With all of this, you should just call each turbo manufacturer and do whatever they say to cover your ass on a premature failure.
 
Actually, I was just asking about posting #'s regarding the 3065.

The "3065" I'm talking about is the FP model. Is there some "3065" model now that Precision makes that you're referring to?
 
That's what I'm talking about, the FP model. I know you can get the 3065 with a T3 housing. Hell, you can get damn near anything you want today. But, since the 3065 doesn't compare 100% to this turbo, i'll stay out of this thread.
 
Depending on the RPM you're intending to run and the condition of the bottom end, it is most likely that you will be way over 80PSI at the housing.

Yea, especially without balance shafts. Thats why I ported the bypass valve. Once I get the car running I might even get a restrictor depending on the oil pressure I see. Anyways just passing on what PTE told me.
 
That's what I'm talking about, the FP model. I know you can get the 3065 with a T3 housing. Hell, you can get damn near anything you want today. But, since the 3065 doesn't compare 100% to this turbo, i'll stay out of this thread.

A GT3082R is what it's typically called, I believe. Here, FP sells them:
http://linux.forcedperformance.net/...P&Product_Code=GT3082R&Category_Code=AllTurbo

Not quite the same kind of turbo, I'll agree. Different performance characteristics because of the GT30 turbine wheel.
 
On my new balanced shaft removed 2.0L motor I am pegging the 100psi oil pressure gauge and am for sure going past 100psi.

I keep hearing about more and more guys actually putting a gauge on the turbo oil feed and tuning the spool up with different restrictors. I have also heard from PTE about the 80psi part and that pretty much means all of us with the balance shaft removal are going well past it.

I am going to dyno it something this winter and might explore the oil pressure tuning.
So far no oil on the turbo housings.
 
I had absolutely no problems with my PTE 360 degree thrust bearing turbos (several in the past) on my 2.3L stroker with BS's removed. I never ported the oil restrictor either. I had a SCM6031E, a SCM6152E, a SCM6152S and a T4 SCM6181S. Never a problem with them (other than failing under 30-35psi of boost continuously -- SCM6031E and 6152E both of which were replaced under warranty).

I ran a -4AN stainless feed off the oil filter housing and done. Never any leakage problems, over oiling problems, etc. The turbos didn't fail due to oiling issues.

They worked just fine up to 8500rpms with well above 120psi line pressures.
 
I had absolutely no problems with my PTE 360 degree thrust bearing turbos (several in the past) on my 2.3L stroker with BS's removed. I never ported the oil restrictor either. I had a SCM6031E, a SCM6152E, a SCM6152S and a T4 SCM6181S. Never a problem with them (other than failing under 30-35psi of boost continuously -- SCM6031E and 6152E both of which were replaced under warranty).

I ran a -4AN stainless feed off the oil filter housing and done. Never any leakage problems, over oiling problems, etc. The turbos didn't fail due to oiling issues.

They worked just fine up to 8500rpms with well above 120psi line pressures.

Just some clarification, but the "M" in "SCM" denotes the mitsu bolt on housing. If you had a t4 anything, it wasn't an "M" model.
 
Just some clarification, but the "M" in "SCM" denotes the mitsu bolt on housing. If you had a t4 anything, it wasn't an "M" model.

Sorry, I accidently called my T4 SC6181S as a SCM6181S. It was not a mitsu housing; I replaced it with a 0.81A/R T4 undivided housing.
 
Sorry, I accidently called my T4 SC6181S as a SCM6181S. It was not a mitsu housing; I replaced it with a 0.81A/R T4 undivided housing.

I figured you knew but I'm sure someone out there would be calling precision trying to get a t4 scm61 :)
I had plans of turning my scm61 into a t61, but just wound up buying a pt67 after i got the mani and wg.
 
I had absolutely no problems with my PTE 360 degree thrust bearing turbos (several in the past) on my 2.3L stroker with BS's removed. I never ported the oil restrictor either. I had a SCM6031E, a SCM6152E, a SCM6152S and a T4 SCM6181S. Never a problem with them (other than failing under 30-35psi of boost continuously -- SCM6031E and 6152E both of which were replaced under warranty).

I ran a -4AN stainless feed off the oil filter housing and done. Never any leakage problems, over oiling problems, etc. The turbos didn't fail due to oiling issues.

They worked just fine up to 8500rpms with well above 120psi line pressures.

See, the oil feed line that I got with my turbo is a -3AN stainless. He had told me that the -3AN line restricts the oil enough to were you do not need to buy a restrictor. This is what I was told.
later
 
curious,ive heard that this turbo doesnt last long.how many miles do you guys got on the 6152s?
 
im also curious how big of a difference it is between the t3 and mitsu housings.
 
curious,ive heard that this turbo doesnt last long.how many miles do you guys got on the 6152s?

I am apologizing in advance for the long, but very detailed post: This answers the quoted question above, along with Bushy's question in the last post:

Quickly, Bushy - The T3 housing will definitely outflow a mitsubishi flange housing (as long as the T3 is greater than a 0.63A/R). In retrospect to the following long winded post, I really reccomend the T4 0.70A/R or 0.81A/R turbine housings for the best power out of the 56-trim 61mm PTE SC turbos.

Ok, now the details of mileage, performance, problems faces, and spool characteristics of these PTE turbos:

I have had a few PTE turbos, all with less than 10K miles on them prior to repairs or sale...

#1 was a SCM6031E; wastegate actuator was bad from the start, returned it, they replaced the actuator and ported the turbine housing inlet and outlet, sent it back free of charge. I ended up with a toast turbo around 6000 miles when the thrust bearing crapped out. I sent it back to PTE, they covered it under warranty, and upgraded me to a SCM6152E for free. The 6031E did a best of 12.0 @ 120mph at 26psi on 110, stock block, 1G head swap w/ 264/272's, stock ecu w/AFC and 780cc's w/ Walboro 255HP.

#2 was the SCM6152E stated above, it was alive for another 7-8000miles, and was sent back once for porting under warranty due to boost creep and unstable boosting from another faulty wastegate actuator. I ended up sending the turbo back after some unusual shaft play under low boost mileage, which resulted in another warranty coverage of the turbo. There was also an engine failure resultant of a turbo thrust bearing failure.

#3 was another SCM6152, but with the additional option of a T4S Surge Ported compressor cover. This turbo held up well to the higher boost levels I was doing (23-35psi). I did have a problem with boost stabilization due to creep. I also noticed on the first dyno sessions with this turbo in internal wastegate orientation, along with the 2G MAF (unplugged) fitted to a K&N FIPK and FP 4" intake pipe and AEM 3.5 bar MAP with AEM EMS, I could not go above 22psi. If I removed the MAF from the equation and installed my LARGE K&N filter, it would automatically shoot to 35psi with no control. At this point we decided to port the turbine housing and go with an external wastegate configuration to properly control boost levels. This first dyno session resulted in 400whp/350tq at 22psi at 8 degrees peak advanced timing under low to mid 11's:1 AFR's and 110 leaded gas. Again, I had the turbine housing ported out heavily, resulting in solid boost levels after removing the wastegate actuator, flapper door, and welding up the flapper door pivot pin. Unfortunately the mitsu turbine housing was a litle thin in one small spot, resulting in a crack which required a little welding and it was fixed. With this turbo in conjunction with a TiAL 44mm V-Band wastegate installed on a tubular O2 dump setup, the mitsubishi housing dyno'd 500whp/460tq at 26psi with 8 degrees peak advanced timing on AEM EMS on 110 leaded. Full boost was attained around 3400rpms, and peak torque was at 4700-4800rpms, peak HP around 5600rpms. Power tapered off after that rpm, and it was noticable that the turbine housing was the problem. There were no gains above 26psi in HP or torque w/ C16. The turbine housing was the main restriction. On the street, you could feel the car running out of steam around 5500-6000rpms. The turbo did a best of 11.5-11.7 @ 122mph at 26psi on 110 and the 2.3L stroker setup, AEM EMS, 1000cc injectors, Walboro 255HP, 272/272 cams, etc.

After the dyno experience, I decided to change over to a DNP T4 divided equal length tubular exhaust manifold, along with a 0.81 T4 undivided flange V-band outlet turbine housing on the existing #3 turbo-- Resulting in a full T4 SC6181SP. There was alot of debate to go with the 0.70A/R or the 0.81A/R, and I decided to go with the larger one (resulting in full boost around 4500rpms -- 35psi), I could have probably had a nice "in the middle" with the 0.70A/R T4 housing, and scavenged a little faster spoolup than the 0.81 A/R housing.

I went back with these changes (manifold and turbine) to the track , and got down to 11.4 @ 128mph on 26psi, 11.2 @ 130mph on 31-32psi and a best of 11.017 w/ a best mph of 133.79 mph at 35psi. Based on MPH, vehicle weight, dyno data and flow calculations, we returned with a number slightly above 630whp and 590 tq.

The boost would come on a little later than the mitsu housing, but it was definitely WORTH it when I saw an 11mph increase and 11.0's out of the car. Especially since the car was on Falken Azenis, and a stock "temporary" tranny (broke 5 trannies this year -- 4 built ones, and 1 stock one) cutting slow ass high 1.7 60's. The car has pulled best 60's of 1.58 and 1.62 seconds on 16" Nokian Hakkapellitta Q's with stock front diffs and a 4 spider center diff.

The T4 should have been my FIRST turbo I purchased.

Overall, it was a good learning experience seeing the differences and effects each part had.

I must say that the warranty coverage and customer service recieved from Precision Turbo & Engine was WELL ABOVE AND BEYOND!! The turbos were a good price, though the QC/QA issues were frustrating; and the customer service made up for the inconviences faced.

I have since changed over to a Full Garrett T4 GT4088R with a 0.96A/R divided flange V-Band turbine (unfortunately like 6 weeks before Garrett announced the GT4094R). This turbo has done 11.0's at 128mph with a FAST tune on 22psi -- maxing out the walboro 255hp using a boost comp setup at 25mbits/sec rate (~244 was peak raw fuel value)--had the fuel side been up to par, I know that the turbo would have likely went well above 11.0's, as i was running quite lean after 2nd gear, seeing mid and high 12's:1 AFR's, resulting in shifting below 6500rpms in every gear.

I see EXCELLENT boost and power characteristics out of this turbo, and it spools FASTER than the SC6181SP. If I start at 2800rpms in 5th gear, by 3200rpms I am around 8-10psi, and by 3500-3600rpms, I am at 25+psi FAST. Insanely responsive, and definitely streetable. Better low end, midrange and top end than the PTE turbo.
 
Thank you for the post, that was very informative to me.

Where did you end up purchasing the t4 hotside?
 
You are all definitely welcome!

I am a very helpful person, and if you all have any more questions regarding turbo setups, fuel requirements, etc. I am always around to give a hand to those that respect advice and constructive criticism.

I have quite a bit of experience, and have changed setups several times over the years. I have broken alot parts, and have done alot of upgrading from these lessons learned. With this experience, I can help you all in making the right decision so you don't have to spend as much money and time as I did to get it right the first time around.
 
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