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possible motor/sensor trouble

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95TSi_AWD_717

10+ Year Contributor
58
0
Oct 27, 2010
Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania
alright been awhile since i've posted anything but having trouble with my car we've tried a few things nothing worked going to do a few more but wanting some opinions/ideas from everyone else.

We went riding around last week car worked great, next day went to start my car it turns over but won't start. we had thought the motor had crank walked seeing how i put my act clutch and flywheel in. first we tested to see if there was any spark coming from the coils, so we put my friends coil pack on seeing how mine weren't giving enough spark, changed the plugs still nothing. so a friend of mine came over who's really good with dsm he pulled some stuff apart to check the crank, the crank was fine, he sprayed some stuff in the plugs it started for like 2 seconds so he checked the crank sensor also, he saw nothing wrong with it but who knows, so were going to do the 1g crank/cam sensor switch for my 2g, there's 2 other things he said we can try if that doesn't work, but i wanted some ideas from others on what could be wrong, any help would be appreciated to get this resolved.
 
were getting power and signal from the ecu to the transistor, and there's power goin to the injectors it's just not sending a signal to give the fuel and were trying to find out where the wire that goes to the transistor to send the signal to the injectors. We plugged my ecu in another friends car and it fired his right up, so we know the ecu is sending signal. the mpi relay tested good, so were trying to see what wire sends signal from the transistor to the injectors telling them to fire up
 
yea we put my friends new on in, and still didnt fire up, im wondering if the other mpi relay we tested was bad or if the ignition switch relay is bad
 
He geting power to the ISC but not the resister pack so its a bad wire and yea he geting power in pins 12 and 25.
 
Last edited:
Ok, on the resistor pack, you should be getting 12 volts on the red wire. Its the upper left, or the upper right, depending how you look at it.

This should result in somewhere in the region of 2 volts at the the resistors 4 outputs.

....\/.. you should get power here.
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Ok, on the resistor pack, you should be getting 12 volts on the red wire. Its the upper left, or the upper right, depending how you look at it.

This should result in somewhere in the region of 2 volts at the the resistors 4 outputs.

....\/.. you should get power here.
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thanks i let u know
 

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She's up and running again. We found out we weren't getting power to the IAC. So we took the battery and brackets out where the wire leads to under it. And there was a snapped wire sticking right out in front. Wolfe put a new wire there, and she fired right up. The 1g CAS didn't work, which we don't know why. So we hooked it back up to the stock sensors and it worked. Thanks to everyone for all the input, especially Sniver. He helped out a lot.
 
strange the iac would cause a no start issue.. as people delete these all the time.

howcome you weren't able to make the 1g cas to work? did you not buy a premade harness?
 
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strand the iac would cause a no start issue.. as people delete these all the time.

howcome you weren't able to make the 1g coil pack to work? did you not buy a premade harness?

I assume you mean the cam angle sensor? They simply found the component to be bad.

They were looking at the injector wiring schematic, and noticed that hte iac gets its power from the same circuit as the injector resistor pack. It was presumably easier to check the iac plug. They found no power to the IAC, so they further investigated.
the fuse had power, but the iac nor the resistor pack did not. Upon checking for opens, they found a broken wire, right under the battery tray.

I had a long phone call with wolfdawg, the guy leading the way in person, helping 95tsi sort out his issues.
 
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