Poor Man's Profec B+ Up and Running

[wret]

There is a wealth of high-tech gadgetry a few mouse clicks (and a few electronic dollars from your Paypal account) away.

I just finished installing an SMC electronic pressure switch. It has two programmable limits and outputs. I am using it to activate my water injection system at 5 psi, and independent of this function, it controls boost at 16 psi. Both these set points are adjustable with a few button clicks. Either of these functions is deactivated with a toggle switch. The boost reverts to stock level through the BCS. I bought the thing for about $20 thinking it had possibilities as a boost controller but I had no idea it could do so much.

The device on the left is a temperature controller. That’s a whole other story but it will read any type of thermocouple or RTD probe. It has programmable outputs and limits also. It reads up to 2000°F and the digital readout can actually be set to change colors from green to yellow to red at certain points. It can trigger an alarm or relay when EGT reaches a critical level.

Keep an eye on the industrial automation section of ebay for some very cool gadgets. They have a whole section just for pressure switches and another for temperature controllers. I love this stuff!

 

[Nanan]

Thats rather cool looking, home brew but highly functional. How long did it take you to build that thing and how much did it cost?

 

[gsxeclipsed]

very very nice. i love custom work and it looks super clean.

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

damn that is pretty cool.. i would be asking a bunch more questions if i didnt already have an EBC

 

[Defiant]

Bingo. But good luck in a world that pays Joe P. fifty bucks for a ball-and-spring, ask if JB Weld will hold on exhaust systems, and determine BOV selection on a noise basis.

Oh, and stand by for the flood of "build me one" requests.

 

[wret]

Thats rather cool looking, home brew but highly functional. How long did it take you to build that thing and how much did it cost?

SMC Pressure switch $20
2 circuit board relays $10
LEDs and resistors about $10
Circuit Board $3.99
1/8 Aluminum stock (already had but about $6 I think)
Cap Screws $8
Toggle switches $12
Solenoid valve $6

CNi3254 Temperature Controller $70
EGT probe $40

All together close to $200 I guess but without the EGT thermometer system, one could install the pressure switch as a boost controller for under $50. It took me a weekend to put it together.

 

[wret]

Bingo. But good luck in a world that pays Joe P. fifty bucks for a ball-and-spring, ask if JB Weld will hold on exhaust systems, and determine BOV selection on a noise basis.

Oh, and stand by for the flood of "build me one" requests.

I don't understand why the younger crowd isn't jumping all over this stuff. These types of things were simply unavailable in my early tuning days. This brings my inventive nature to a whole new level.

And sorry guys, I give away ideas for free but my time is very expensive.

 

[truwarrior]

I just wanna pull my hair out figuring where to start. Very nice fit, awesome features. Imagine what you could build if you spent 3 weeks building it?!

 

[Burnett03]

There is a wealth of high-tech gadgetry a few mouse clicks (and a few electronic dollars from your Paypal account) away.

I just finished installing an SMC electronic pressure switch. It has two programmable limits and outputs. I am using it to activate my water injection system at 5 psi, and independent of this function, it controls boost at 16 psi. Both these set points are adjustable with a few button clicks. Either of these functions is deactivated with a toggle switch. The boost reverts to stock level through the BCS. I bought the thing for about $20 thinking it had possibilities as a boost controller but I had no idea it could do so much.

The device on the left is a temperature controller. That’s a whole other story but it will read any type of thermocouple or RTD probe. It has programmable outputs and limits also. It reads up to 2000°F and the digital readout can actually be set to change colors from green to yellow to red at certain points. It can trigger an alarm or relay when EGT reaches a critical level.

Keep an eye on the industrial automation section of ebay for some very cool gadgets. They have a whole section just for pressure switches and another for temperature controllers. I love this stuff!

smart people like you make me feel dumb...

 

[suicidal2af]

SMC Pressure switch $20
2 circuit board relays $10
LEDs and resistors about $10
Circuit Board $3.99
1/8 Aluminum stock (already had but about $6 I think)
Cap Screws $8
Toggle switches $12
Solenoid valve $6

CNi3254 Temperature Controller $70
EGT probe $40

All together close to $200 I guess but without the EGT thermometer system, one could install the pressure switch as a boost controller for under $50. It took me a weekend to put it together.

Wanna help me build one of these after I fix my broked transmission?

 

[otofmyway6]

hmm can you help me take advantage of your free ideas? i'm very interested in making something similar. It seems the button/display setup is extremely versatile. lots of props for it!

 

[jim97gst]

Is this the same thing you have?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7527198949&category=87087&ssPageName=WD1V&rd=1

 

[Empyrials]

SMC Pressure switch $20
2 circuit board relays $10
LEDs and resistors about $10
Circuit Board $3.99
1/8 Aluminum stock (already had but about $6 I think)
Cap Screws $8
Toggle switches $12
Solenoid valve $6

CNi3254 Temperature Controller $70
EGT probe $40

All together close to $200 I guess but without the EGT thermometer system, one could install the pressure switch as a boost controller for under $50. It took me a weekend to put it together.

err umm Vfaq? hell i'd send u some money if i got it working... however for now i just want the EBC side of it

 

[wret]

Wanna help me build one of these after I fix my broked transmission?

Sure. But like I said, my time ain't cheap. I work for beer though, preferably DuClaw's Venom Pale Ale.

hmm can you help me take advantage of your free ideas? i'm very interested in making something similar. It seems the button/display setup is extremely versatile. lots of props for it!

No problem. You can post any questions you have here. I'm not sure I'll ever get around to a DIY write-up, so you might have to do some thinking.

It's kind of sad that after picking through an almost empty drawer of LEDs, relays, and resistors at Radio Shack, the manager who rang me out told me I was a dying breed. It seems not many people tinker around with the stuff anymore.

 

[wret]

Is this the same thing you have?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7527198949&category=87087&ssPageName=WD1V&rd=1

Negative, the "Z" series are made for vacuum control. Look for an "I" series. Make sure it's low voltage and should have "open collector" outputs. Most are LCD rather than the LED that I got.

 

[otofmyway6]

for my first series of questions =)...

The SMC has two programmable settings itself. Then you use the solenoid to open and close the valve correct? The solenoid is hooked up to the activation side of the SMC. As i understand its something like this perhaps? i have no idea.

Toggle Switch for setting 1/2---SMC...then SMC 'output' side is connected to the solenoid which is connected to the wastegate. I'm assuming the solenoid only has one in and one out. the SMC input side is connected to a pressure source (such as BOV line). OR...maybe there are 2 pressure sources such as standard on the profec...one after the turbo? At the moment, i think the EGT is unnecesary for me. I'm not sure what all the LEDs and switches are for though on yours. I figure one is for SMC Power on/off, one for SMC setting 1/2 and one for EGT on/off? thanks for answering the questions.

 

[wret]

The "inputs" to the SMC switch are one pressure source (same as a boost Gage) 12vdc and ground. It has two available outputs which on this particular model are known in electronics-speak (which I had to google) as "open collector." Basically this means they go to ground when activated.

Th SMC can be configured in one of several modes. It can operate in a "window" mode, which means that outputs are activated at a certain pressure level then deactivated at a certain higher pressure level. It can also operate in normal mode, where output is switched at X psi, or Reverse mode, where output is on on but switched off at X psi.

Boost Control
After trying a couple configurations that didn't work well, I chose to use the switch in conjunction with the BCS. I used reverse mode and put a small pneumatic solenoid in the line before my BCS. The solenoid is in the normally closed position. So when everything is off the BCS acts normally and boost is limited to stock levels. When the output from the SMC is activated (with a toggle switch) the solenoid opens and becomes an outlet for the pressure that normally goes to the waste gate. When the SMC sees a certain pressure (16 psi, in my case) it deactivates the solenoid and lets the BCS do its job again.

Water Injection
I used the second SMC output to activate a pump and water solenoid valve for water injection. This is in a normal mode; on at 5 psi and higher.

One could use the two SMC outputs for two different levels of boost control (3 if you still use your BCS), or two levels of water injection for higher injection output at higher boost pressure.

The SMC is capable of switching only very low current, less than 80 mA. Most standard 20-30 amp automotive relays exceed this amount. You must wire the outputs of the SMC to circuit board relays before going to the larger relays. I believe the CB relays are available at radio shack but they didn't have specs on them so I bought from McMaster-Carr (who does have specs).

 

[suicidal2af]

Sure. But like I said, my time ain't cheap. I work for beer though, preferably DuClaw's Venom Pale Ale.

Beer can be arranged. I actually haven't been to DuClaw's yet, mostly because I don't turn 21 until September.

Top priorities for the car right now are transmission swap(3rd gear hub grenaded), and then fixing my bent core support so I can put my 2gb bumper and headlights on.

 

[otofmyway6]

thanks for replying so quickly....so my understanding of your current setup is such...the SMC gets power and ground from somewhere and then the 'input' is attached to a pressure source. Then, one of hte 'outputs' is attached to the BCS with a solenoid in between. Then the bcs is run to the wastegate. so...

SMC--Solenoid--BCS--wastegate is this correct? I am currently just looking for boost control. Thanks. If i make one I will make a tech article with credit to you.
Andy

 

[wret]

thanks for replying so quickly....so my understanding of your current setup is such...the SMC gets power and ground from somewhere and then the 'input' is attached to a pressure source. Then, one of hte 'outputs' is attached to the BCS with a solenoid in between. Then the bcs is run to the wastegate. so...

SMC--Solenoid--BCS--wastegate is this correct? I am currently just looking for boost control. Thanks. If i make one I will make a tech article with credit to you.
Andy

Forgive me for over-explaining if you already know this:

A manual boost controller is placed between the pressure source and the waste gate so that the pressure is allowed to build to a certain point and then pass through the controller to activate the wastegate.

The BCS doesn't act the same way that a manual boost controller would, or even a conventional electronic controller. It placed in between the pressure source and the wastegate, it is teed off to the side and is normally open. It bleeds off pressure so the wastegate is not actuated until it receives a signal from the ECU. It then closes and the full amount of pressure reaches and actuates the wastegate.

I tried a couple different arrangements with the goal in mind as keeping the BCS as a default so that I could have pushbutton multi-level boost control. The first two more conventional arrangements didn't work, probably because of the tiny solenoid valve I am using. What worked the best is an arrangement that took advantage of what already worked well: the BCS system. I placed a solenoid in the path between the pressure source (teed from the wastegate) and the BCS. The solenoid is also teed so that when it is closed, the pressure still passes to the BCS exactly as it did before. When I flip a switch, the signal from the SMC opens the solenoid so that under non-boost engine operation, additional pressure is bled from the pressure source. Whatever opening and closing the BCS does, does not affect boost level because the open solenoid still does not allow full pressure to reach the wastegate. When the SMC sees 16psi, it closes the solenoid and the BCS acts normally again until the boost pressure drops below 16 and the solenoid opens again. Complicated yet simple, huh?

 

[miden]

That's pretty cool. Could we get part numbers for the pressure swtich & the solemoid & a schematic by any chance?

-M

 

[wret]

That's pretty cool. Could we get part numbers for the pressure swtich & the solemoid & a schematic by any chance?

-M

The pressure switch I bought was an ISE4E-T1-27. You can find specs at the SMC website. I is for pressure models (vs. vacuum), T1 is the port size (1/8 NPT) and 27 is the output type (open collector). The solenoid model is not important but I bought several Minimizer 3E1 for $6 from another ebay auction.

Here's a crude schematic. I not sure of proper symbology.

Edit: I removed a relay from the schematic. A secondary relay is required for a water injection pump but not for a small solenoid.

 

[miden]

Thanks. I'll give that a go when I get some money.

Also, this should certianly be in the tech article section...

-Mike

 

[Bostedquest]

Not to hijack...

I did a super cheap 3 stage boost controller.
Maybe $40 at the most and that is including new tubing and elbows.

I took the FP selinoid dual stage idea and added a third.
Granted it uses 3 manual boost controllers, but the inlets are all controlled seperately by the selinoids.
1 normal open/electric closed
2 closed electric open.
wire
diode
leds
vac tubing
plastic elbows
and whatever you want to use as controllers, toggle switchs touch pads.... I used something that I thought I would never use... You know that remote control shift nob that autozone and other auto places have... you know the one with the thumb flip lid... yeah I am using that. Boost control is a thumb flip away.

I could see the controller you got off ebay doing the same thing though. going electronic over manual.

 

[Empyrials]

The pressure switch I bought was an ISE4E-T1-27. You can find specs at the SMC website. I is for pressure models (vs. vacuum), T1 is the port size (1/8 NPT) and 27 is the output type (open collector). The solenoid model is not important but I bought several Minimizer 3E1 for $6 from another ebay auction.

so the SMC you can adjust in the car any time right? and you can choose to have it display PSI? and it can go up to 200kPa which is 29psi right? and what are the "Minimizer 3e1"'s?