Please help!! Crankcase Pressure?

[DSMChase]

So I just rebuilt my motor, I've put 300 miles on it now, it runs great, but I do have a CEL, and there is oil leaking from my oil cap and turbo oil return. The car does not smoke at all, idles good, I have noticed that my oil smells like gas a little, is this normal? took my PCV off and blew through it and sucked, seems to be working, my rings were a little loose on #3 cylinder because I had the machine shop hone my cylinders to remove scratches, also getting a small weird knock when it is cold, goes away in about 30 seconds, and does not increase with rpm, could this be piston slap in that cylinder? Is it ok? Pistons are OEM std bore. Also, a bit off topic, I have a narrow-band A/F and it seems to be working normal, till about 20 miles when it starts reading leaner and leaner until it gets stuck at the leanest LED, could this be a bad O2? Causing CEL? Causing rich/gas in oil? gas in oil causing knock at cold idle? Recommendations?

 

[Absit]

Did you put a new oil cap gasket on?
Did the PCV Valve let air through both ways or just one?
What's your compression?
How violent/deep/loud is the "knock"? What lifters are you using?
Throw your narrowband gauge away and buy EvoScan, then post a log. Buying a wideband would be even better AFTER you buy EvoScan.

 

[DSMChase]

yes, I did put a new oil cap gasket on, I know my valve cover is slightly warped, and it leaked before, so I'm thinking this may be the culprit. The PCV only lets air out of the valve cover not in, but that is only using mouth pressure, I'm going to rig my air compressor onto it tomorrow, we'll see what happens. The knock seems to be closer to the head than the oil pan, I've been doing a ton of research and have narrowed to piston slap, because only happens when it is cold, goes away with rpm/warm up, from what I understand rod knock gets worse with rpm/temperature. I dont have a comp tester, I will do as soon as I can. I'm also going to get the code checked tomorrow, hopefully its just my O2 sensor. I used the same sensor and gauge before I did my build, and it always worked correctly (crappy but correctly), so I'm sure something is wrong. Possibly because the O2 sensor sat in the rain all winter exposed?? Could it be running rich and not smoking? Also, I removed the breather hose to the intake, I could feel air pulsing out at idle, I give it a little gas and it goes away. Is there any way to test the O2? One more thing, before I did my rebuild, my t-25's bearings were completely gone (chunks of it in the oil pan), I was burning an incredible amount of oil (literally half a quart out of my turbo piping/intercooler) could this cause O2 malfunction? Thanks

 

[Absit]

Warped valve cover isn't a good thing..
If you're on stock boost and the PCV Valve is OEM it should be fine.
Could be valve slap or lifter tick, better hope it's lifter tick but check for both, doesn't sound like rod knock but pulling the pan and checking never hurt anyone.
If you were blowing oil you could foul the O2 sensor pretty easily - could be old, could have been affected by weather, could be a combination of everything, if you had a logger you could keep an eye on the voltage it's returning when idling at operating temp, I don't know what your NB02 gauge shows.
You can run rich and not smoke.

Why haven't you bought EvoScan yet?

 

[DSMChase]

The valve cover used to leak at no. 4 plug hole, my head is fully rebuilt, milled/valve job/all new seals/new guides/checked for square. Do you think maybe my rings aren't seated properly? Cylinders 1, 2, and 4 ring end gaps were all within spec, #3 was .26/.30, pretty much race motor loose, I didn't measure PTW, machine shop did, said it was max spec, this would cause piston slap, correct? My narrow band is a piece of junk, I know, but it does mean SOMETHING, when it is working properly it bounces from lean to rich somewhat rapidly, and when you get into it, it will hold somewhere in the late (stoich) led's, before my build it would do this like clockwork, whether hot or cold, 1 mile or 1000 miles, always the same, since my build, it works that way until I go 20-30 miles and then it begins to bounce from close and closer to lean and within 5 more minutes is works its way down all the way to leanest the gauge will read and does not budge whatsoever. My thought is my O2 sensor is not working properly and my computer is reading a lean condition, which would cause it to run rich to compensate for the false reading, which would cause oil smelling like gas, and posiibly glazed cylinder walls and poor piston ring seating. I am truly hoping I dont have to pull this thing apart again to bore the cylinders also, my dipstick isn't popping out at all, which I have heard is a common symptom of excessive blow-by...

 

[Absit]

Yes.
Please start using the RETURN key between trains of thought.