Planning mods.

[Gasolinebaptism]

I'm a starving college student, okay maybe not starving, I'm 16 and going to community college free of charge. Old man gave me his bone stock 92 Laser 6 bolt AWD turbo last summer. I think that with some help I'm finally about to get it back on the road, I just ordered an ECU. I'm car savvy but have a long ways to go in the DSM community. Over the next 12-18 months I want to make 400AWHP. I'm looking for some guidance as to what to buy and install first, and what is the most important. I'd like to start with a hard intake and air filter, and a mechanical boost controller and boost gauge.

 

[spartan69x]

there are guides as to the paths and parts to purchase for the car. just do some reading first and do ALL the timing belt, fluids, etc FIRST before mods. good luck.

 

[Gasolinebaptism]

Yea 400 horse man. Sounds a bit crazy for a kid, but I've grown up around cars and bikes, I've always wanted more. I have a 250lb dirtbike with 60 horse and 60 ft lbs or torque. I still want more. I know how to drive, and drive fast, I've put time in on a track, on the ice and snow, and gravel, I know what to expect. Plus I hate that "ricer" stigma, if anyone pulls up next to me I don't just want to win, I want to demoralize. And go have some fun track days. I've been reading in the mods section for a road racer, I'm not just going for straight line speed.

 

[DSMDriver69]

You're 16 years old and you want a 400hp car?

Yea that's what i was gonna say. Have you ever driven a 400hp car on the street? If so then all the more power to you. Also do some searching on this forum and all your questions will probably be answered. Also do maintenance first, that's the biggest mistake most people make with our cars.

 

[viprez586]

Maintenance first and foremost but I'll give you a quick run- down. You want to make sure your engine and drive-train is healthy enough for 400awhp.

The stock block is good for this but you'll want to consider it's compression and such.

Engine : ARP headstuds are a must, 2g pistons on 1g rods is practical and cost effective. While your in there might as well resurface the head and the block deck, throw in a MLS HG, Replace all the bearings, water pump,etc.

Bolt ons: Turbo back exhaust, FP manifold or ported 2G, FMIC and piping, EBC(worth the additional cost), 272 cams, walbro 255, adjustable fuel pressure regulator aka AFPR, upgraded fuel lines, etc.

Drivetrain : If not now, later a shep, TRE, or jacks rebuild, at least a stage 2 clutch (I love my competition clutch).

Turbo: This depends on where you want your usable power - since you're awd - fast spool is awesome on a street car. An 18G or 20G would suit your needs, but you might have to invest into other goodies like a SMIM to take full advantage of the power.
If you like the train-wreck slam of hitting your boost threshold later on - look at the GT35R and look no more - this turbo has plenty of potential.

Tuning: DSMlink no doubt, full or lite would suit your needs.

This is by no means a cheap build - so research and do it right the first time - or else you'll spend more money in the long haul. TRUST me! Thousands of members including myself know this from personal experience.

 

[Achelea]

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"Play it again sam."
Nothing against you man. Every month or so we have a wave of new DSM owners that hear about the site, and register. But most of them don't bother to actually read the rules, they just click "I Agree". Then they introduce themselves, and ask a question that is answered in the FAQs, and a search would have answered easily. The front page has links for upgrade paths, Frequently Asked Questions, and so forth.
What ends up happening is a new tuner comes on, asks a obvious question, old timers, having heard this question about once a month, start making snappy remarks. New tuner think that DSM community is stuck up. Stops posting because they don't feel welcome.
All we ask as a community, is that you put effort into using the information on the site. After 21 years, there is Almost NO question that has not been asked. Lurk, think of random topics and just read read read.
And no, this isn't a rant at you, it's just giving light to the cause for the frustration.
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Which way did he go George? Which way did he go?
Before you start doing modifications you need to know what the plans for the car will be. And STICK to it. Cause changing mid build means buying multiple parts and some steps need to be replanned.
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The Fastest Way to Improve Lap Times is to Tighten the Nut behind the Wheel!
Regardless of what car you drive, what modifications you do, how much you spend, patience and experience will do more for you than can be said. Research 3 times before you ever lift a wrench. Get a manual and read it front to back and FOLLOW directions.
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Power without Control does nothing.
Before you get a bunch of power to the wheels, you need to learn the quirks of the car. These cars have their own personality, and you need to learn how they react. Track time will give you more than the power will. You can Never have enough practice.

Personally I would work from the road to the motor. Wheels & Tires -> Brakes -> Suspension -> Drivetrain -> HP
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"You gotta walk before you run, lest you trip and fall on your face"
1.) REPAIR Fix what's broken!
2.) MAINTENANCE Make sure all the maintenance is up to date!
3.) SUPPORTING MODS Supporting mods will save you from expensive mistakes later!
4.) UPGRADE Upgrade, but in the right order. Doing the wrong order will empty your bank account faster than a CEO's Golden Parachute.
A slightly more expensive supporting mod will make the cheaper mod later on a LOT more effective.
IE a $50 Manual boost controller can crank your boost up high, but can blow your motor if you're not safe. Then you gotta save to rebuild.
But fuel wiring, logger, and such, and you can see what your car is doing easier.
Waiting til after you get a more free flowing exhaust, your boost will build quicker, and make better use of the MBC higher boost, and more fuel.
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How much would you like to spend today?
As for Manual vs Auto: You have to remove the transmission in order replace a clutch in any car. But replacing a clutch in a manual is cheaper than having an auto rebuilt. But if you plan on doing races at a local track, an automatic would work great after you've set it up for it.
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Get what you paid for.
When you buy parts, some parts can be bought from any auto store. Others, you HAVE to buy from the dealer.
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Respect is earned, Not given.
When you see people who have been members for a few years, Listen. Their experience will save you time, money, and heart ache. Be respectful to those around you, and play nice. Nothing will put you at odds with the community quicker than not reading the rules, the Faqs, and then starting to complain about not getting help.
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Viprez beat me to it. XD

 

[Gasolinebaptism]

Hey thanks guys, and sorry for sounding like a n00b or anything. I've been planning on going from the ground up really, and I was looking for someone who has done it first to see what they personally had to say. I think I'm starting with a hard intake, going to wheels, tired and big brakes. Then once I get that taken care of I'll go to a good sway bar, springs and shocks. Then I'll want an ACT 2600 clutch, and while the tranny is off I'll mount an aluminum flywheel. Then it'll be time to move on to horse power. I'll buy an electric boost controller, 3 inch exhaust, DSMlink,1000cc injectors, 255 fuel pump, header and turbo, probably an 18g, of course all the gauges, incl. an O2 sensor gauge, 272 cams, then send in the head for some porting. At this point I'll have some money in, and plenty of potential, but I'll be safe and run around 12-14psi until I get higher compression pistons and polish the cylinder.
How's this sound? any guesses on horsepower with such a setup running 18lbs?

And I completely understand Maintenance first. I dirtbike and do my own maintenance, always will, always have. I'm happy to say that I've thrashed the shit out of my Husky TE610 that has a wiseco piston, big gun exhaust and a JD jet kit, but it still fires second kick each time. And it's 12 years old.

 

[Achelea]

Only other idea I can suggest is a roll cage and a better seat. Personally I'm aiming for a Recaro from the Evos. Adjustable, hold you in, and looks good. XD

 

[DearestNameless]

Best of luck. Plan ahead, definitely with a list that big.

Here is the:
Tech Guides

 

[standard235]

You're in the same boat I am. I'm 17 on my 2nd AWD. This one is nice and I plan to keep.

Got a PTE 5031 BB 50 trim waiting. Clutchmasters FX400 clutch and Fidanza flywheel is on my list. Already have a TRE Stage 2 trans. All new fluids (rear end and transfer case get heavy shockproof, trans gets MT90, Valvoline 10W30 synthetic and a purolator pure one filter, new coolant and hoses/thermostat, new plugs and wires, KYB AGX struts and Ground Control Coilover sleeves, 17" GSX wheels from Mitsubishi Owner Day, 3" hard intake pipe, 3" turboback, Innovate LC1 wideband, boost gauge, logger, Ostrich EPROM emulator and EPROM burner, TunerProRT for tuning with Ostrich, and much more.

It's a lot of fun learning about what it takes for different goals. All my friends are slowly picking up turbo DSM's as well so it really is cool. Have fun with it man, just be smart about it!

 

[Gasolinebaptism]

Hey thanks guys for your help, and I look forward to posts when I get started.
See you on the road.