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Pivot ball

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YoYo_4G63

15+ Year Contributor
187
4
Sep 5, 2008
Carolina, Puerto Rico
I've searched about it and can't find what is the height of a new pivot ball? I'm going to shim it and i don't wanna guess how many or how thick a washer needs to works
 
Have you found out that you need to shim it (already installed pivot ball and fork, mounted trans on block, and found fork is not sitting in proper position which is in the middle or more towards the slave), or are you just doing it because you read about it? If you're doing it just because you read about it, you may not actually need to do it. The few times I've done this, I've used new parts and never had an issue.

Also, are you using brand new OEM parts (pivot ball and fork)?


Not sure if you've seen this yet:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omAw-TgCYzM[/ame]
 
Have you found out that you need to shim it (already installed pivot ball and fork, mounted trans on block, and found fork is not sitting in proper position which is in the middle or more towards the slave), or are you just doing it because you read about it? If you're doing it just because you read about it, you may not actually need to do it. The few times I've done this, I've used new parts and never had an issue.

Also, are you using brand new OEM parts (pivot ball and fork)?


Not sure if you've seen this yet:
Pivot Ball Shimming - YouTube

Indeed. Check before you need to. I shimmed instead of properly adjusting the master cylinder once and caused rpm drop on pedal down. Overextension of the fingers caused by the shim. Removed shim, properly adjusted MC, bled slave until I bled personally, and the problem went away.

Until the seal on the master cylinder went this year LOL now I gots to replace that.
 
To answer your question, it's about .860" from the base of the shoulder it sits on to the tip of the ball.
 
To answer your question, it's about .860" from the base of the shoulder it sits on to the tip of the ball.

Thanks:hellyeah:

Have you found out that you need to shim it (already installed pivot ball and fork, mounted trans on block, and found fork is not sitting in proper position which is in the middle or more towards the slave), or are you just doing it because you read about it? If you're doing it just because you read about it, you may not actually need to do it. The few times I've done this, I've used new parts and never had an issue.

Also, are you using brand new OEM parts (pivot ball and fork)?


Not sure if you've seen this yet:
Pivot Ball Shimming - YouTube

I've seen that video etc i'm just asking, because instead of buying a new one i could shim it to oem height specs.
 
The pivot ball height is not usually the problem as it is very hard. The softer fork can get worn where it rides on the pivot ball is more likely the worn part (if somethings worn). Or flywheel resurfacing (which changes it's thickness and moves everything closer to the engine), or aftermarket parts instead of factory (fork, t.o. bearing, pp, disk, or flywheel any of which can change the geometry). Unfortunately there's no magic measurement you can do before installing the bell housing and seeing where the fork sits in the window. You can only select a washer to pivot with and install bell housing again to see where it now sits and redo if not correct. Everyone's setup is different - even occasionally with all factory parts (eg. remember flywheel resurfacing?). But check your M.C., slave, and bleeding first. Pivoting should be a last resort as it can make things worse if something else is wrong (eg. too much pivoting can push the pp fingers too far and bottom out against the disk when pedal is at floor - personal experience).
 
yeah!!! i'll do all that, since the engine is out of the car and the ss clutch line reach outside my car. I just wanna know that as well because i've done almost all, i've even reinforced the firewall around the mc.
 
well i measured the pivot ball and is fine, the fork is what i need to change.
 
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