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PCV Valve Re-route? (pics)

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oneslowwdsm

10+ Year Contributor
858
124
Mar 30, 2009
Spring, Texas
So I have an aftermarket intake manifold on my 2g and it doesn't have a port for the pcv valve. So the previous owner decided to stick a rubber hose on the back end of the valve cover (where the PCV valve goes) and route it towards the bottom of the firewall open ended so it leaks down through there. I didn't like this (for obvious reasons) so I figured out a way to route it back into the intake.

Now I am noticing a good amount of oil in my intercooler pipes and there's probably a bit in the front mount as well. Is there anything wrong with this setup or am I just asking for trouble. I know the oil is not from any seals because the turbo is in amazing condition and I didn't notice the oil before I routed it this way.

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That hose^ routes down here:
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So you have the hose off the pcv running to the intake pipe. That is completely wrong. You need to run it to the intake manifold where there is vacuum at idle.
 
Can you guys read at all? I stated that the FRH Intake Manifold does NOT have the port to route it back into the manifold. I have looked everywhere for it. It was routed to the floor so when I shut the car off I have an oil leak so I tried it this way. My original question was if a little bit of oil flowing through your intercooler pipes was a bad thing.
 
Can you guys read at all? I stated that the FRH Intake Manifold does NOT have the port to route it back into the manifold. I have looked everywhere for it. It was routed to the floor so when I shut the car off I have an oil leak so I tried it this way. My original question was if a little bit of oil flowing through your intercooler pipes was a bad thing.

It is super easy to drill a hole in the intake, tap it and install a vacuum nipple. Your pcv isn't going to function like that. Don't jump down people's throats who are taking the time to try and help you.
 
Yeah I would use a catch can. Road race engineering makes a good one. I bought one and installed it and am very happy with it. I don't think there should be that much oil coming through the valve cover though. You might want to check and make sure your PCV valve is functioning correctly or just replace the old one (they aren't very expensive).
 
^^ Dumb question:

Can you just run one of those check valves in-between the PCV and the intake without a catch can, and just have the one catch can off the valve cover port?
 
^^ Dumb question:

Can you just run one of those check valves in-between the PCV and the intake without a catch can, and just have the one catch can off the valve cover port?

Yes! Of course you can. That is still a great way to do it too.:) The main thing is to just get that damn usplastic check valve in there so that you KNOW that no boost is going to make it's way from the intake manifold back into the crankcase.;)
 
Thanks! Thought it probably could, but we all know how assumptions can be. ;)

I bought a few of those check valves the other day after having the dipstick blow out due to a faulty PCV valve. (Replaced it and its been fine.... but who knows for how much longer. LOL!)
 
So what would be my best option here since I don't have the port on my intake manifold? (without drilling or changing intake manifolds) I've seen catch can setups in between the 2 ports on the valve cover but I don't think it's correct since I still have the PCV. I haven't had any issues with the dipstick popping and the car runs great, boosts great at 22-23lbs.
 
So what would be my best option here since I don't have the port on my intake manifold? (without drilling or changing intake manifolds) I've seen catch can setups in between the 2 ports on the valve cover but I don't think it's correct since I still have the PCV. I haven't had any issues with the dipstick popping and the car runs great, boosts great at 22-23lbs.

This was already posted but you obviously have not read it yet.

The 4G63T PCV System
 
So what would be my best option here since I don't have the port on my intake manifold? (without drilling or changing intake manifolds) I've seen catch can setups in between the 2 ports on the valve cover but I don't think it's correct since I still have the PCV. I haven't had any issues with the dipstick popping and the car runs great, boosts great at 22-23lbs.

IF you want to run the pcv than your only option is to drill a port into the intake manifold. That is the only spot that will supply enough vacuum for it to function properly.
 
Not sure on that one.... sounds like you have one of those drag race only intake manifolds, since typically a PCV valve *could* be eliminated for that application, since 95% of the time a drag car is in boost. LOL!
I'd probably find a different intake, since like mentioned above, it really does need an intake pressure reference.
 
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Not sure on that one.... sounds like you have one of those drag race only intake manifolds, since typically a PCV valve *could* be eliminated for that application, since 95% of the time a drag car is in boost. LOL!
I'd probably find a different intake, since like mentioned above, it really does need an intake pressure reference.

It will cost like 15 bucks for a drill bit, npt tap and a npt barbed nipple to instal in his existing manifold, kind of silly to buy another when a little modification will make it right.

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It's not about being lazy, I can easily do that however there is a benefit of not having any oil in the intake manifold if you took the time and read your link you posted, not to mention by drilling you risk cracking the manifold, leaks, getting crap inside the head and so on. Also, there is barely any room to drill anything in the first place.

I think I'm going to be buying a catch can and completely removing the PCV valve all-together.
 
It's not about being lazy, I can easily do that however there is a benefit of not having any oil in the intake manifold if you took the time and read your link you posted, not to mention by drilling you risk cracking the manifold, leaks, getting crap inside the head and so on. Also, there is barely any room to drill anything in the first place.

I think I'm going to be buying a catch can and completely removing the PCV valve all-together.

Of coarse you would remove the intake manifold to drill it. You won't have any leaks if you put teflon tape on the threads, it won't crack, look how the existing vacuum ports are in that manifold, they are npt nipples threaded into it. You are WAY over complicating this.

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Of coarse you would remove the intake manifold to drill it. You won't have any leaks if you put teflon tape on the threads, it won't crack, look how the existing vacuum ports are in that manifold, they are npt nipples threaded into it. You are WAY over complicating this.

Lol do you realize how much extra work that would be to drill a hole? I have a feeling this intake manifold would be a pain in the butt to remove with the head still in because it is oversized, can barely get my hands under it or around it.

I truly appreciate your advice though, however it is just not ideal to do. Maybe if I ever do a headgasket swap or motor swap I will do it that way.

BTW: where did you find a pic of that Intake Manifold? I can't seem to find any info on it whatsoever.
 
Lol do you realize how much extra work that would be to drill a hole? I have a feeling this intake manifold would be a pain in the butt to remove with the head still in because it is oversized, can barely get my hands under it or around it.

I truly appreciate your advice though, however it is just not ideal to do. Maybe if I ever do a headgasket swap or motor swap I will do it that way.

BTW: where did you find a pic of that Intake Manifold? I can't seem to find any info on it whatsoever.

IT is a 30 minute job to remove the intake manifold. I have personally used that exact manifold before. IT is real easy to remove and install. There is plenty of room to get to the bolts. There is much more room than with a stock manifold. I just googled forrester manifold to find that pic. There are all kinds of pics of them.
 
My original question was if a little bit of oil flowing through your intercooler pipes was a bad thing.

It's definitely not a good thing. Oil in the combustion chamber greatly reduces the effective octane rating of the fuel, causing knock. Not to mention it makes for a big mess, and eventually turns to coke and can start choking things up in the IM, TB, head, etc.

I think I'm going to be buying a catch can and completely removing the PCV valve all-together.

I'm not going to mention the article again that has been pointed out several times, but there is a whole section on things to consider when thinking about removing the PCV valve... if you didn't see it. :)

Of course you would remove the intake manifold to drill it.

Agreed. No sense in risking getting shavings where they don't belong. If you are going to do something, do it right.

Speaking of which, I would go this route:

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While drilling and tapping will work, it's very easy to to strip the threads in a thin-walled IM, especially with tapered NPT threads. You are much better off welding in some bungs for a permanent solution.
 

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That's all good on a track only car, but if the car gets street driven regularly I wouldn't recommend it.:nono:

Why is that? I must have missed it in the link posted above?

Edit: "The only way to know for sure what effect removing the PCV valve will have is to try it and log the CC pressure. If it stays low enough to tolerate and you take care of your oil, you're probably fine. If you see positive CC spikes in and around the area that you drop in and out of boost, or you don't change your oil often, you may be better off leaving it....but take steps to keep as much oil out of the IM as possible if you do."
 
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