Other options for excessive oil pressure

[turboglenn]

well, i spoke with Darren at FFWD the other day about this and some other things i was wondering (using the shims from his cams with 3g lifters) And he basially said if you can get the the pressure dropped to the turbo using a restrcitor that's all you need and that if you can keep it under 100psi you're fine.

Somehow i still want less pressure even with the added relief valve in my head, but just changing the battery today and pulling the fuel pump relay in -17* winds was too much. I've got something half loose in the front end that's showing up as a spike of phanton knock when i break the wheels loose on the road, so i'm hoping to get under the car and either clip the spring or add some washers to it and go from there next week when it's supposed to be in the upper 40's for temps.

Darren also said that using a thicker oil will lower pressure. I had assumed the opposite but never compared them back to back.. My machinist doesn't wanting me running anything but 5w - 30 for my warranty and darren says to use nothing less than 20w -50 so i'm torn on sticking with my warranty, but would like to see any other option for getting back reasonable pressures.

I'm sitting at 60psi at ~3200RPM cruise..i get to 80 by 4500 and then i'm in the 95 range from 5k to redline. I knwo the valve in the head is keeping the turbo safe and lifters in check, but i really would like more than a "don't worry about it" in my quest for the answer to "what can too much oil presure do to your main and rod bearings?"

 

[Zex4g63]

Glenn, the bottom end needs that amount of pressure to live. DSM cranks were cursed with cross drilled cranks. That oil pressure is fine. You only need to worry about cylinder head and turbo oil flow. Those can both be adjusted with restictors. There is the 90 restrictor and Kiggly makes one to adjust oiling problems in the head.

 

[turboglenn]

Glenn, the bottom end needs that amount of pressure to live. DSM cranks were cursed with cross drilled cranks. That oil pressure is fine. You only need to worry about cylinder head and turbo oil flow. Those can both be adjusted with restictors. There is the 90 restrictor and Kiggly makes one to adjust oiling problems in the head.

now that's quality information!. I'm sure with the 90 reief vaLve i've got good [pressure at the turbo and lifters (well, the turbo would have been gone by now if it were seeing those pressures ) and it's still alive as well

Next i'm going to worry about getting the new turbo bought and in, then tune it again. I can't wait to be back on E85, this 9:1 motor hates pump gas.. I mean i'm actually running a timing curve about similar to a factory 2g car It still pulls like a freight train though, this turbo's never felt so good in this car, especially at 15 psi ( this motor don't like 20+ on this timing curve) I think i may put about 5 gallons of e85 in tomorrow since i can flip betweeen maps on the fly and trim the fueling as needed Then if all is well i'm upping the boost into the 23-25 range and seeing where my IAT's are at before proceding any further (this beat up turbo had to be making some heat in the intake )

The way its pulling now i just have to figure how to get it to stay alive up top a bit longer. IT still feels like i'm running out of steam at 7200 RPM (this is at 15psi) and i was hoping that with the cams, springs and retainers i could pull 8k out of it before losing anything .. Hopfully more boost does the trick, if not i'm stumped on where to start looking.

 

[knochgoon24]

...Darren also said that using a thicker oil will lower pressure. I had assumed the opposite but never compared them back to back.. My machinist doesn't wanting me running anything but 5w - 30 for my warranty and darren says to use nothing less than 20w -50 so i'm torn on sticking with my warranty, but would like to see any other option for getting back reasonable pressures...

That's the first time I've heard that. I dropped from 10w-30 conventional to 5w-20 synthetic. It's freakin' cold here in Erie. It's 13 degrees here right now and getting colder. It dropped my oil pressure by about 5-10psi across the board. My cold starts were getting out of control with 100psi+ on startup. It took about a min to drop to 80 then about 5 min of idling to drop to 60. It wouldn't drop from there until I drove. Now, with 5w-20 it starts up at about 90psi, drops to 75 in a few seconds then drops to 45 or so after 5 min of idling. I would have rather run a 0w-30 synthetic, but I couldn't find any locally. My biggest problem is just at startup and for the 10min until the car warms up. 90% of "normal" engine wear is said to happen during this time, not from high oil pressure, but from the oil being too think when cold, hence me wanting to try 0w-30.

I had a problem with low oil pressure once the car was warmed up and run real hard, and it's still there. Thing is, I don't run it that hard in the winter anyways. I don't have an oil temp gauge, so I don't know how hot it's getting. An oil cooler may help me the idle pressure up in the summer.

When hot after a good run I'll get 3-5 psi at 750RPM but 15-20psi @1000RPM.

And for those thinking 0w-30 is much thinner than 10w-30, it's only thinner until the car reaches operating temp. If you disagree, read up some more on oil weights.

 

[turboglenn]

I'm not getting too close to 100 until right at redline (about 7500 RPM) I'm at 95 by 6500 and then it slowly creeps. ANd since the head relief valve is keeping the important bits under control I'm going to keep it the way it is until i end up having to service something in the area of the OFH, then I'll swap for my even further ported model or just clip the spring a tad and see what happens

the way the motor is running just blows my ind, the 9:1's are killer and now that i can take full use of the cams with the proper springs making the valves close i couldn't be more pleased with the car

The only issue I'm having with the car is now in 1st and 2nd gear the car breaks up under hard acceleration when the tires start spinning. I'm guessing for now it's due to the plugs being old, the motor was even broke in on these same plugs. Then yesterday they were fouled so bad the engine wouldn't run, so i cleaned them with a wire brush, brake-kleen and then cooked them with a propane torch and still using them. If i didn't have to buy a battery yesterday i would have sprung for new plugs and just put em in, but times are tight. I'll have some loot again tomorrow so we'll see what happened with new plugs

I'm also going to change the wires here one day very soon and see where i go from there (these magnecores are over 8 years old ). The damn car sounds like a drag car with the wastegate open and it starting to pop/miss through the first 2 gears, i mean it sounds like one of the cars you see in videos going through the first two gears in a heartbeat with some popping and rev limiter action in there to boot . Once i hit third and things smooth out then the ignition holds fine, which baffles me since usually spark blow-out occurs during higher loads *shrugs*

I have no idea what it could be other than guessing at the plugs..anyone?

Also since the new haltech will allow me to log trigger inputs i'll pull a log to make sure I'm not losing signal in there somewhere

 

[ddimestalon]

Would using a spring with a less comprasion rate be better than cutting the spring?

 

[pneumo]

Here's an interesting post for y'all. He modified the oil system a little, too. What d'ya think?
GalantVR-4.org: Bonneville Galant exposed