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Subie_Tech_Intl

Proven Member
51
0
Jan 4, 2013
Merizo, Guam, Australia
I was out three days ago when I happened to find an open road, no houses, no people.. just wide open road. I decided to get on it... open it up for the first time since buying this car. I didn't stop to launch hard.. just an easy rolling start from about 10-15mph. By the time I got to 3rd at about 5k I noticed that there was no more pull.. but I stayed on it hard. I tried to get to 6.5k. That's when it happened. Soon as the tach hit 6k, poof!.. bye bye throttle response. The RPMs dropped to zero. I managed to pull over, where I then shut off the car. I checked for leaks.. nothing. So I tried to start it up. It turns over strong.. sounds like it wants to start but it doesn't start. I had it towed to a local mechanics house. He said that he checked and replaced the coilpack, wires and spark plugs (gapped) and crank sensor... but still no spark. My car knowledge isn't this deep. Can anyone help me out here? Should I just take this opportunity to replace the whole ignition with MSD parts.. and if so what parts should i get for an autocross/roadrace/DD setup?
 
EDIT: I missed the "still no spark" part. Ok then, check the cam sensor since the crank sensor has been tested already. Also check the power transistor

You should call this thread "no spark" or something LOL, it was actually easy to miss. Maybe its early and my eyes are foggy....
 
EDIT: I missed the "still no spark" part. Ok then, check the cam sensor since the crank sensor has been tested already. Also check the power transistor

You should call this thread "no spark" or something LOL, it was actually easy to miss. Maybe its early and my eyes are foggy....

I just did the same thing. I read no start LOL.
 
Did you hear any strange noises or just lost throttle response and power?

I heard a strange "poof" or "pop" similar to a backfire but not as distinct. (P0170 Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank 1))

..timing belt is intact, needs to be changed and will be very soon.

Whats a CAS?
 
It really sounds to me like a bad CAS. Or bad connections in the power transistor. I have both failures in the past. The power transistor issue isn't easy to see, my connector was so rusted in the inside that doesn't make a good connection all the times so it was an intermittent failure over time until one day the engine shuts off to not start again.

Also you need to check the CAS, maybe ask a friend for a cas to check if your engine starts.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/413823-cam-angle-sensor.html#post152722910

Check and recheck transistor, coils and cas connections.:thumb:
 
To my understanding, the cam angle sensor tells the ecu timing and the crank sensor tells the ecu spark. My uncle and I checked the replaced the CAS. So we're guessing that it's either the crank sensor or the ecu WTF!!? There's no spark at all but everything else works fine.. I swear this car is seriously testing my patience..LOL. Anyone care to chime in...?
 
Would say check compression, and check for boost leaks while you'r at it.

As far as "no spark" issue goes, checking crank/cam sensors is pretty simple. Hook up a volt meter to "signal" wire of sensor in question (with all wires still attached), another wire of volt meter goes to ground, and crank her over. Needle of volt meter will jump every time the sensor is triggered. If you do think the ECU is to blame, open it up and look for damaged parts. Components of ECU are large enough to see if something is damaged (unlike most electronics these days).
 
Had a similar problem replaced all that stuff that was mentioned and still nothing. Pulled the ECU out and my caps were shot. Bought a refurbished ECU and she started right up. Just something that wasn't mentioned yet even though it's not that common on your year DSM I would still pull it, It only takes like 5-10 minutes.
 
In case I should happen to need a new ECU, what ECU do i need for DSM Link and can it run good w/o DSM Link so that i have time to save up for it? I'm taking all opportunities to replace whatever breaks with performance parts :p
 
Early '95 EPROM would be your best bet, but all '95-'97 can be converted to EPROM and then socketed.
 
In case I should happen to need a new ECU, what ECU do i need for DSM Link and can it run good w/o DSM Link so that i have time to save up for it? I'm taking all opportunities to replace whatever breaks with performance parts :p

That's how I roll, shocks shot=coilover, motor mounts blow=polyurthane. If it is the ecu you could be able to smell it, if you know someone with a 2g around you, you can swap them and see. I wouldn't worry about replacing it till you figure the issue out/ know that is what it is. Guess you are going to have to wait on those wheels now.
 
That's how I roll, shocks shot=coilover, motor mounts blow=polyurthane. If it is the ecu you could be able to smell it, if you know someone with a 2g around you, you can swap them and see. I wouldn't worry about replacing it till you figure the issue out/ know that is what it is. Guess you are going to have to wait on those wheels now.

Unfortunately yea :ohdamn: I'll get 'em in time. I still have toget the Evo Brembos and JDM Galant VR4 front knuckles. But now I'm thinking that IF i have to get a new ecu i might aswell getan ECM Link package with a new ecu.. I just dont understand all that I need. :(
 
Unfortunately yea :ohdamn: I'll get 'em in time. I still have toget the Evo Brembos and JDM Galant VR4 front knuckles. But now I'm thinking that IF i have to get a new ecu i might aswell getan ECM Link package with a new ecu.. I just dont understand all that I need. :(
Look on the classifieds on here and there are parts trader pages on fb too. Ppl are usually selling link ecus with the cable for fair prices. If you have the $$ just buy a ecu from ecmlink.com and get the whole package with it
 
Correct me if im wrong, Im going link soon and I'm just having them do the conversion and socket, but even if you have/get a eprom ecu you still would need to send it out to be socketed, I think you are better buying from ECMlink.com. You get your access to the fourms there for help, if you buy it second hand you have to pay 25 dollars to gain that access.
 
I bought mine 2nd hand, and didn't have to pay to get forum access.

I just had to give the serial number off the chip and what I wanted the username to be.
 
Correct me if im wrong, Im going link soon and I'm just having them do the conversion and socket, but even if you have/get a eprom ecu you still would need to send it out to be socketed, I think you are better buying from ECMlink.com. You get your access to the fourms there for help, if you buy it second hand you have to pay 25 dollars to gain that access.

This is incorrect. I bought mine 2nd hand and it was all paid. Software is free and so is the forum. Always has been.
 
Though I still have tons of issues with my car, the issue turned out to be the crank sensor. Thanks everyone for your help and advice :)
 
I Have seen that some people run the god speed stuff just fine and others get crap. It is a EBAY brand so yeah you get what you pay for. Mishimoto and Koyo is all I would buy if i where to go aftermarket. Try a little teflon the threads of the drain plug and see if that helps.
 
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