2G One wheel pokes out after AWD conversion!

[eclipsyco]

Hey guys been a while!
So I read that is normal on 1gs how about 2gs?
I AWD swapped my GST (finally) I'm pretty sure with the FWD subframe I didn't have this issue now the driver side wheel is good inch in compared to the passenger side.
The passenger side sits nice and flush with the fender well the drivers side not at all, if you stand at the edge of the well you can't se the wheel from the top!
So did I messed up something during the swap? I used most of the control arms from the GST could that be an issue (I don't think so)
Bent subframe? I hope not. Axel pushing the knuckle out on the passenger? Misalign subframe is that even possible?
Anything I can check before I drop everything?

Thanks

 

[jesse12345]

The only thing I could think of is the upper control arm pushing it out? If you look at the front down by the tires does your drivers tire look like its pushing out from the top or does the whole thing just look like it's pushed out more? Maybe some pictures would definitely help, but I'd compare the passenger to the drivers. If everything looked normal before the swap and now something isn't right after I'd bet one of the parts is the issue and not the subframe.

 

[eclipsyco]

I'll check that tonight and report tomorrow...and post some pictures

Thanks

 

[steve]

Cause I'm really slow today are you talking about front or rear?

 

[eclipsyco]

Cause I'm really slow today are you talking about front or rear?

Rear I just did my awd swap!

So the pictures below are how they fit!
I started disassembling everything and everything seems to be ok. I have fresh poly bushings and all control arms are fine no bends. I'm on coilovers so I have the washers behind the upper control arms I even loosen the subframe just in case idk all good there too.

And then I put my hand between the wheel spokes and grabbed the knockel and realize that on one side I can stick my fingers in between the tire and the knockel on the other side (drivers side) I can't, the tire is almost touching the knockel.

Then I took some measurements and the driver side knockel is 1/2 in sorter.
So A. I have a bent knockel which I doubt
B. Mismach knockels? I think 95-96 differ from 97-99 right?

As soon as I removed the upper control arms everything looks exactly the same both sides so what do I do now + I need some clearance for the tire too..
Can I get a half inch spacer on just that side and add more camber to the upper control arm?

Sorry for long post and thanks

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[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Firstly its KNUCKLES... had to say that

So what kit did you use or did you to the original way and add and weld in the oem studs into the frame rail?

Has your car even been in an accident?
The "Knuckles" be the same both sides since its from your car. Upper arms also!

So the most common fault will be with the subframe BUT could be the hardware to install the frame. They normally have a fraction of adjustment as all oem will to align properly. Oversized holes or studs that more or both!

You can check for subframe damage. The lower arm pushing it out can do this. Your entire wheel sticking out is odd due to the fact the entire side seems pushed out not just the LCA as that would display mass camber showing on the wheel.
Axles being longer wont be the issues as if you got the arms mounted up you are ok. Longer axles would not allow the arms to bolt up fully due to holes being off.

This is what i would do***

* Make sure both uca and lca arms are the same. Same washers you got both sides.
* Loosen the subframe mounting and pry it over to the otherside.

 

[jesse12345]

Oh this was for the rear. I swear I saw front but maybe I'm a little slow that was my bad.

 

[99dsmer4g63]

IIRC the rear knuckle 2ga arm and 2gb do have different shapes. I think the fwd rear knuckles have different size bolts between 2ga and 2gb for the wheel bearing as the hub is thicker as well but I think 95-99 awd all use the same bolts for the wheel bearings so the hubs should be the same atleast.

-Daniel

 

[jdxnc]

I believe you either have a mixed set of 2ga/2gb knuckles or something is bent.

 

[eclipsyco]

Hey thanks all of you guys and sorry English is not my main language, at this point I'm pretty sure I have different knuckles driver side 2ga and passenger side 2gb...
One side I can stick my finger behind the wheel on the other side not and if a measure from where the UCA bolt is to the center of the axle is half inch sorter one side compared to the other, and this has nothing to do with control arms at this point since the wheel is fixed into position by the hub in the knuckle.
I guess I'll start looking for a 2gb drivers side knuckle meanwhile I think if I extend the UCA a bit somehow... it could work.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

IIRC the rear knuckle 2ga arm and 2gb do have different shapes. I think the fwd rear knuckles have different size bolts between 2ga and 2gb for the wheel bearing as the hub is thicker as well but I think 95-99 awd all use the same bolts for the wheel bearings so the hubs should be the same atleast.

-Daniel

only the arc is different, the rest is the same. i have both and fwd to awd bolts are the same. only bore from fwd to awd differers but the arc changes for wheel gap but does not push the wheel out further.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Hey thanks all of you guys and sorry English is not my main language, at this point I'm pretty sure I have different knuckles driver side 2ga and passenger side 2gb...
One side I can stick my finger behind the wheel on the other side not and if a measure from where the UCA bolt is to the center of the axle is half inch sorter one side compared to the other, and this has nothing to do with control arms at this point since the wheel is fixed into position by the hub in the knuckle.
I guess I'll start looking for a 2gb drivers side knuckle meanwhile I think if I extend the UCA a bit somehow... it could work.

do NOT fix it with washers in the UCA as this is a bodge and will react differently from side to side. get the correct knuckles for a matching pair. if you don't plan to run wide wheels the 2GA will be perfectly fine fir you, the 2GB is ONLY really required if you plan to run super wide wheels and a high ET offset

 

[eclipsyco]

do NOT fix it with washers in the UCA as this is a bodge and will react differently from side to side. get the correct knuckles for a matching pair. if you don't plan to run wide wheels the 2GA will be perfectly fine fir you, the 2GB is ONLY really required if you plan to run super wide wheels and a high ET offset

Yeah no! More washers is a no no kinda sketchy adding that many washers I was planning to actually to mod the UCA where it attaches to the knuckle and when I find the 2gb knuckle I'll just replace the UCA too.
I'm on 17x9 with 225x45 is not rubbing but it is extremely close to

 

[jed344]

do NOT fix it with washers in the UCA as this is a bodge and will react differently from side to side. get the correct knuckles for a matching pair. if you don't plan to run wide wheels the 2GA will be perfectly fine fir you, the 2GB is ONLY really required if you plan to run super wide wheels and a high ET offset

Yes. We did some measuring long time ago and as i recall found the arc is slightly different and allowed for 3 or 4mm more clearance i think with 2gb vs 2ga.

 

[99dsmer4g63]

only the arc is different, the rest is the same. i have both and fwd to awd bolts are the same. only bore from fwd to awd differers but the arc changes for wheel gap but does not push the wheel out further.

I’m telling and didn’t ask you certain year 2g’s have different length bolts that hold the wheel bearing to the rear hub.

You can say what you want but I have personally seen it in the junk yard taking parts off cars.



-Daniel