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Ok doing a 6-bolt swap tomorrow wish me luck

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l3igl3ang

15+ Year Contributor
539
2
Aug 10, 2005
ft smith, Arkansas
Hi im pulling my 7-bolt and putting in a 6-bolt i bought that has no more then 2k miles on it and i was wondering what all things i should watch out for and problems i might have doing this kinda swap? I like to get it right the first time :D I know i will have to get a 6bolt FWD flywheel and i know there will be alot of Vac lines that arnt going to hook up right so i just cap them off? And any thing u guys might think of that i will need to do just let me know like do i have to do anything to the ECU? Thanks
 
i just ended up cutting the harness off and hotwaireing it togather with no harness

but for some GD reason my starter is not working :mad: i have 2 startes which both worked before the swap now neather one will spin when turning the car over.
 
i know there will be alot of Vac lines that arnt going to hook up right so i just cap them off?

I'm a little late to this thread here, but I've got a couple comments anyways :D

- Specifically, on that item I'm quoting... Wrong. They hook up just fine. However, you need to make one small modification... Cap the "E" port and tee the old "E" line into the "P" port on the TB. That's it.

- Some of the other stuff you mentioned made it look like you really haven't done your homework. I wish you the best, but I'm afraid that you may not have spent enough time planning and it's going to make it more painful than it need be. Along those lines, I hope that you have real good reasons for doing this swap. It has pros/cons like anything else, hoping that you got enough info to carefully weigh the decision and you didn't just jump into in blind...
 
well i got pertty much all the vac lines hooked up and teed off the MDP to a vac line as well so i think there is only 2 vac lines not hooked up going to the black bucket looking thing under the battery. I think i might have figerd the starter problem out i may had hooked the plug that gose to the starter to my vac lines sence they look the same so lets just hope this is the problem.
 
Ok finaly got the motor swap and in the car and it seems to work just fine but sounds like the starter grinds when starting it and also now my dam transmission wont got into gear :mad: it just grinds and we have bleed the system and still no luck. It seems eather the motors not working right or the transmission which the transmission worked just fine befor the swap.
 
Keep bleeding the clutch. Sounds like you've still got air in it. Or, you have the rather unfortunate luck of having something else fail now. I vote for air still in the line though. The clutch hydraulic system is exceptionally difficult to bleed properly. BTDT, had to tow the car to a place with special equipment to blast hydraulic fluid through the system to knock all the air out...
 
Yeah im thinking its air cause every time i bleed them i come back the next day and have to do it again. I would had gave anything if i would had just removed that piston off the transmission instead of undoing them hydo pipes for the fluid.
 
Also before i did the swap the clucth pedal had play in it like i could push it but it would'nt eguage at first then it would enguage after i pushed it so far down.
 
you may need to keep bleeding as the above poster stated, If that doesnt work your going to need to change your slave. Two slaves on two different 6 bolt swaps that ive done did the same thing.
 
a m8 said i have to adjust the clutch pedal under the dash board cause right now it has alot of play in it
 
ok clutch problem solved now finaly got it going and driveing it home and i noticed something blowing out the back of the motor i stuck my hand down there and it was air comeing out and i been smelling gas and also my gas went down real quick it seems like so i think theres a gas leak or a oil leak in the back of the motor :mad: Im going to jack it up tommarow and turn it on and carwl under there to see where the hell the leak is comeing from and try to fix it.
 
Ok fianly got it al figerd out :) there was a bolt in back of the block which i removed and thats where my oil leak was from WTF. So i put a bolt back in and solved that problem.

Only thing that leaks now is the gas and antifreeze which i know where both leaks are and how to fix them :D

also another problem is my radiator hose is pushing right up against my linkage for my transmission which makes it hard to push as well as probably will rub over time so i will have to rerout it some how.
 
also another problem is my radiator hose is pushing right up against my linkage for my transmission which makes it hard to push as well as probably will rub over time so i will have to rerout it some how.

You can also just cut off the weight part of the linkage that it's rubbing against. It's not needed and has no bad effects on the shifting or tranny. Here's a picture of mine:
 

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This is what is pushing into my hose


i dont think the weight is in the way
 

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well i noticed the 6bolt and 7bolt has the copper tube for the coolint in diffrent places i think this is why its hitting.

I should had took my tube off my 7bolt and used it on the 6bolt. But i think i can push the hose up on the tube futher to clear it from my shifter.
 
well i noticed the 6bolt and 7bolt has the copper tube for the coolint in diffrent places i think this is why its hitting.

I should had took my tube off my 7bolt and used it on the 6bolt. But i think i can push the hose up on the tube futher to clear it from my shifter.

What copper tube for coolant? Are you talking about the front coolant pipe that runs behind the turbo? If so, thats not copper.

As for using the 7 bolt coolant pipe on the 6 bolt, I think the only way you can do that is if your using a 2g head on a 6 bolt block? Someone correct me If Im wrong.

The reason your shifter weight is hitting is because the 6 bolt coolant pipe puts the lower radiator hose in a different place than the 7 bolt lower radiator hose. So Im assuming your using a 6 bolt front coolant pipe with a 1g lower radiator hose? Correct? If your using a 2g lower radiator hose on a 1g coolant pipe that could also be your issue.
 
yeap i used my 2g hose on the 1g motor

so i have to buy a 1g hose?

i can have a pic tommarow and show u what i mean

Ya, post the pic up. I think the bends are way off so this may be causing the interference with the shifter linkage. Get a 1g hose and you won't have any clearance issues then. Did you have to cut the hose or bend it to get it to fit?
 
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