Resolved Oil Pump Housing Screw is Stripped. Need info on it.

[slipstream808]

Title says it all. Final step in removing the rear balance shaft is to get the oil pump housing cover apart. Yeah well, the 4 bolts were FINE. But the screw wasn't. I used all my strength, and pushed it in but I just stripped the grooves on the head of the screw. I guess we'll have to get and extractor for it but it's ruined.

Any special screw we need or can a generic one with similar threads be had from like Lowes? Also, why does it seem no one has had a problem with this before? Any why stick a screw in there in the first place? So many questions...

 

[snowborder714]

Any special screw we need or can a generic one with similar threads be had from like Lowes? Also, why does it seem no one has had a problem with this before? Any why stick a screw in there in the first place? So many questions...

Whenever my brother and I removed his screw, we had the exact same thing happen We ended up using an easy-out to remove it, which was still a PITA. We both have the same question as you - why a screw WTF In the end, he just ordered a new one from Mitsu. I'd be curious if anyone's used a hardware store screw. I don't remember if there was anything special about it, but he was going with all OEM stuff so he got that too.

The part number is MD141302 and it's $4.16 from JNZ Tuning.

 

[turbosax2]

I'm his ^^ brother. I thought it was only me too since I had never heard of it happening before. Then a month later my friend tears down his block and the same thing happened on his. You're not alone

 

[Auto RS T]

You guys ever use an impact driver? Would probaly work well.

You hold the bit/driver in the screw and hit the driver with the hammer to seat it. Then you twist your wrist counterclockwise and hit the driver again which then spins the screw out while you are seating it. Leaving the screw unharmed.

I use one on the rusty little screws that Honda likes hold rotors onto hubs with...

 

[turbosax2]

Never heard of them before. Do you have a link to show what it looks like?

 

[Auto RS T]

Cool Tool: Impact Driver Wrench

 

[slipstream808]

We are already stripped so we will just use an easy out. I'm glad to know I'm not alone though. I guess this'll be the first real thread on this then!

 

[Tatanko]

I guess this'll be the first real thread on this then!

Yay to us for being helpful to future searchers

Question: has anyone replaced this with a regular old hex head bolt? I know I've seen it done and I for one would rather put a hex head bolt back on than a stupid philips head screw. If you have, do you remember the approximate size of the bolt?

That stupid screw is being a real pain. It would NOT come out, even with a set of EZ out tools. Just wanted to strip and strip and strip some more. Dropped the whole assembly off at a machine shop and the guy should have it out for me Monday, though. MAN what a pain this thing has been!

 

[blcknspo0ln]

I'm his ^^ brother. I thought it was only me too since I had never heard of it happening before. Then a month later my friend tears down his block and the same thing happened on his. You're not alone

I've done it three times. I ended up just using a dremel and making a bigger groove to fit a fat ass flat head in there and all three came out fine

 

[Tatanko]

I've done it three times. I ended up just using a dremel and making a bigger groove to fit a fat ass flat head in there and all three came out fine

I'll remember that for next time. Unfortunately it was too far gone after just one, yes one, attempt with a phillips head. Thanks for the help via PM, also.

 

[slipstream808]

Yes, but when we do MINE, we can do this dremel tip. Thanks!

 

[Tatanko]

Old screw is out, and replacements have been purchased with Allen heads to them for ease of removal the next time. We'll post pictures and more info on Wednesday when we get the new one on and can take pictures.

 

[Tatanko]

Here are some pictures...first we have the new screw (Allen-key style head) next to the old, stripped-out Phillips-head style screw:

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We also have a few pictures of the new screw installed:

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[slipstream808]

Man I have nice hands!! J/K

Hope this helps someone some day.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Nice solution

 

[turbosax2]

Good idea guys, I'll be using an allen head screw for mine too!

 

[Tatanko]

Thanks. If only the 7-bolt had a bolt there like the 6-bolt instead of a screw The new screw is actually maybe 1mm or 2 shorter, but it's threaded all the way down unlike the factory screw, so it actually has more overall thread. We picked up the new screw at this out-of-the-way mom and pop sort of hardware store. We picked up 5 of them so slipstream could use one for his Spyder and help out anyone who was having this issue.

 

[Tatanko]

Just an update to the thread to add some more info and pictures since I've gotten several requests and questions about it. First of all, I actually have a number to match to this screw now. It's M6 with a 1.00 x 16 thread. Now that you have the measurement, you should be able to find it at a hardware store or something locally if you need it and don't feel like waiting for me to ship one to you. Of course, if you can't find one locally for whatever reason, I'm always out for helping fellow Tuners members with a hook-up Also, there's one last comparison picture I never posted because whenever I posted them originally I didn't have everything. Here you have (from left to right) the OEM screw that came out of the 7-bolt (stripped, of course), the "OEM" replacement one you can buy from JNZ, and finally the "hardware store special" screw:

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Take notice, again, that the hardware store screw is actually physically shorter, but has more threads to it. Also, don't be fooled by my inability to properly line them all up, the head on each of them is identical in size. Again, don't hesitate to PM myself or slipstream808 with any questions you might have and we can get these screws for you as well. I actually just bought a bunch in case more people wanted them because they're so cheap. Thanks guys!

 

[slipstream808]

God I hated that little ^#%$%...

I can't WAIT to do it to mine in a few months!!!!

 

[snowborder714]

Thanks a lot for that info!! I'll let you know if I can't find them locally.

 

[dynatos]

For those hoping to find an equivalant bolt locally, I found these at home depot that worked perfectly.

6x16mm bolt

3 of them in a package were $.79 in the 'machine bolt' section of drawers. Here's a pic:

 

[Tatanko]

dynatos, thanks for posting your findings. However, I strongly encourage anyone looking for a replacement to buy something with a head that is much less likely to strip (as opposed to a Phillips head). I realize the head on the factory bolt stripped mostly because of the soft material (or so it seems), but it's just something I recommend to make your life easier.

 

[dynatos]

Well as was mentioned above (i think anyway) the original screw material is brass which is a very soft metal. These screws are aluminum, which although being a soft metal, isn't near as soft as brass. Though I agree, the stronger/harder the better. But at least someone in a pinch can find the home depot version.

Edit: Reading the label, these screws are steel / zinc plated. They should be just fine compared to the brass screw. But as with anything, your mileage may vary.

 

[Calan]

Why is that a screw instead of another hex bolt, like on the 6-bolt?

There isn't anything different down below the oil pump sprocket on the other side is there? Seems like a PITA.

 

[snowborder714]

No idea, but for some reason the 7 bolts use the darn screw.

I just replaced mine a few weekends ago with the allen head screw which is much better!