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Resolved Oil Pump Housing Screw is Stripped. Need info on it.

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I too would recommend something other than a phillips. A flathead would even be better. The just don't strip as easy.
 
Why is that a screw instead of another hex bolt, like on the 6-bolt?

There isn't anything different down below the oil pump sprocket on the other side is there? Seems like a PITA.

The 7-bolt has a clearance issue, thus requiring the machine screw. Which ever route you go, just don't spend an exuberant amount of money for the brass mitsubishi screw.
 
I know this thread is old, but I just had to say something about this to get the word out.

God, I just had this PITA screw strip on me yesterday. Here I am thinking how lucky I was to get the crank/timing sprockets off without any problems whatsoever and then I run into this little gem...extractor time :notgood:

Anyway, just a heads up to the 7bolt guys doing a balance shaft delete: BEWARE OF OIL PUMP HOUSING SCREW!
 
I know this thread is old, but I just had to say something about this to get the word out.

God, I just had this PITA screw strip on me yesterday. Here I am thinking how lucky I was to get the crank/timing sprockets off without any problems whatsoever and then I run into this little gem...extractor time :notgood:

Anyway, just a heads up to the 7bolt guys doing a balance shaft delete: BEWARE OF OIL PUMP HOUSING SCREW!

Maybe you people don't screw and unscrew enough but mine came out easily :cool: I even took it out with my cheapo harbor freight phillips screwdriver LOL The free ones you get with the coupon! If any of you have trouble, just book me a flight and I will come to the rescue :D
 
Before I even tried, I was aware that it might strip so I was being extra careful, made sure to use a proper sized phillips and apply enough down force just in case. It felt like that damn thing was seized in there...sounds like you got lucky (or maybe we're all unlucky)

EDIT: well I ended up breaking the tip off a bolt extractor, so I resorted to grinding a groove in it. Couldn't get enough torque with a regular flathead so I used a skinny chisel that was the same diameter as the screw head. I then used a cresent wrench around the flat shaft of the chisel for torque. Worked out perfectly. Replaced with a M6 1x16 hex screw.
 
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Just reassembling my longblock and doing my first BS delete. Fuking thing stripped and popped the head off leaving the remainder of the screw in the case. Praying i can easy out it. If not? $300 down the toilet to buy a new case. This is the dumbest thing i've ever seen. Should've just made it alan head grade 8 to begin with. Then even an asshole with a bottle of red threadlocker couldn't wreck your day.
Lucky i have a parts washing table now cause they tiny metal shards are no doubt everywhere in this case.
4500 miles on a new pump/case is not enough to warrant replacing it. I have no gear wear, stress fractures or anything. It's in mint shape.

Why is it that people mess with the castle plug when doing a rear BS delete? Is that just for a new assembly?

Thanks to the guys who identified it as a m6 1.00 pitch 16mm long. Alan head 8 grade, or standard, will work wonders. BLUE thread locker!!!! NOT RED...... sheesh
 
Got it out, no damage! Popped right out after i got a decent easy out in there. Even had a perfect replacement in my tool box. Win and saved another order
 
Hate to revive an old threat, (especially since it is resolved), but wanted to add another resolution to this with pictures. I was able to source a screw from Lowes with an allen head on it that fits perfectly. I have attached pictures to this post for reference. Again, sorry to bring this back up but figured this was the best place to drop it considering it is a thread labeled as "resolved" and this gives another option for people running into the same issue.

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