Oil pressure? No start?

[stuckwithgsx]

To start, yes i've searched.

I recently broke the timing belt on the 95 gsx. When the t-belt broke i was at about 1700 rpm's and obviously not boosting, the radio wasn't on, window's were down, and I heard absolutely no strange noises ie no valves slapping, no backfire, the car just died. So I tore into the car and looked for a good cause of why the belt broke and I found nothing. The automatic tensioner was good, the oil pump was NOT ceased, the crank did NOT walk, roller rockers all still where they belong, balance shaft belt was good. The only thing I noticed was the CPS plate had a little bit of damage on one of the edges. I turned the crank and the plate still moved through the sensor just fine, so I took the sensor off and seen the metal things on both sides and still seemed to be a good sensor.

So I decided to get a new t-belt, tensioner pulley, oil pump, bse, and put it all together and see if I got insanely lucky and still had good valves.

This is where the problems began... ...The oil pump I got was for a 1g. Now i'm not positive but I looked at both pumps and noticed that they were identical besides the alternator mounting bracket part. And like a dumb dumb I didn't want to wait for a 2g oil pump so I got the 1g to work. (still have not searched here to see if anyone else has done that) Now I didn't want to pull the engine for the BSE and didn't have the proper enough tools to get the front shaft bearings out, so I left the front shaft in and used some lock-tite and stuff to try and keep the shaft from moving (not too worried because I really don't think it will hurt anything if it rotates slightly at any given time) and I left the belt for the front shaft off. And of the rear shaft I used the proper bolt/plug/piece or whatever the proper name for it is.

So after the oil pump, I start getting the timing components cleaned up, and put on. Everything goes pretty good. (when tightening the pulley tensioner, you go counter clockwise to tighten ) After all timing components are correctly on I start turning the crank bolt with 1/2 ratchet. Slowly turning and hoping to heaven it all goes well, as i'm turning I hear absolutely nothing. It all seems good!! Yay! So I took the t-belt off, and got the drill on the oil pump bolt to help prime oil throughout the engine, a few seconds later oil comes squirting from the 2 holes on the cam gear side of the head and shoots all over the bottom of my hood. I think the oil pump will work good. I put the timing belt all on correctly again and turn it over more by hand, and again everything seems golden. So I put my valve cover back on with new gasket and hook up the 2 lines to it. Then put my COP setup back on.

I currently do not have alternator, harmonic balancer, lower timing cover, upper timing cover, or water pump and a/c pulley or belts on the car.

The oil filter housing is on, and the 2 electrical wires to it are hooked up. The lower one is on it's last limb but did work properly before car died.

So now my problem is the car will not start. I've had this car for a while and since owning it the ex-woman has been driving it. I only get to see it when it breaks . So I do not know if the factory oil pressure gauge reads oil pressure while car is cranking? If it is supposed to work, then it's not reading oil pressure. Could that be my problem? I have checked spark, and spark is good. Fuel pressure to the regulator is also good. When the car cranks it sounds healthy. The only leak that i have is the return line from the turbo to the oil pan. I accidently started filling her up with oil before realizing that was still off. So I put it on good enough for now, because when the car does get running it will run for about 10 minutes then another oil change because of the lube inside the oil pump to help prime it, and I just like having things over done

I've thought of a cam being 180 off, and from what i've read the lettering on the cams should be right side up (readable) when all timing marks line up on compression stroke.

During all of this I did not mess with any i/c piping or intake piping, or anything. There was a ground on the exhaust that I thought may be the culprit, but I got it back on and still no start. The only thing I can think of is the ecu not sensing the oil pressure and somehow causing no start? But still don't know because i'm still getting spark? Also I've searched and read that it is possible for the CPS to be bad and still get spark? So i'll be looking the the hayne's to figure out how to test that.

Any advice or suggestions, thoughts, ideas, or anything would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all in advance!!

The mod list:

Evo III big 16g
COP
Cheapo Muffler
Gutted Cat (done yesterday with car down)
Turbo Timer
Short Shifter
Lowering Springs
Wheels/ Tires
Coolant bypassed from TB (ran for months like that)

Edit* Sorry for the long post everyone. I just want to let you all know as much information as possible.

 

[minimoose]

The oild press guage wont show pressure while crankin the motor over only while the motor is idling/running.

 

[stuckwithgsx]

Thanks for the info. The car will back fire through the exhaust once after waiting a while before cranking again. I pulled the valve cover and found two tiny chunks of metal looks like from a roller rocker but everything still looks good and in tact so I guess I am pulling me some cams and further inspecting...

 

[Gs Dewd]

Do a compression test and make sure you have good compression in all the cylinders. You could have still bent valves. They don't need to be bent very much to wreck havoc.

 

[stuckwithgsx]

I have done everything but a compression check. That'll be done first chance tomorrow. I am pretty sure the exhaust valves are toast on cylinder number 2. Sad day

 

[Gs Dewd]

Also (which I forgot) the 6 bolt and seven bolt engines have different timing marks on the oil pump cover. That will cause you problems also.