oil pan problem

[chrysler kid]

recently during my swap in of a 16g into my eclipse, i was removing the oil drain line and one of the bolts that connects the return to the oil pan is stripped (when i turn the screw left or right it does not come out or go in at all. well (im still kicking my self) but i wanted to see if i could get the copper gaskett spray to hold the drain line, well some got in the hole and i can see abit of overspray directly above the hole in the oil pan. im worried i got spray on the crank and will spin a bearing down the road. its really stresing me out.

anyways what i figure is that i might be able to dremel the head off the screw, then re thread the hole in the oil pan, or get a new 7 bolt oil pan if installation and removal isnt a big problem

 

[98TsiAWD]

Remove the oil pan, grind the head of the bolt off thats stripped, then go in the back side and grind off the welds holding the nut on. Get a new nut and weld it in place making sure it correctly positioned. Problem solved

New bolt also.

 

[98TsiAWD]

Oh and there is a crush washer on those bolts to seal it, so oil doesnt leak past the threads and out. You can try using RTV on the threads before putting the bolts in to seal the threads if you dont have the crush washers.

 

[chrysler kid]

should i be worried about the overspray, its really giving me an ulser every time i think about the car.



also what are the steps to removing and re-installing the oil pan. removal looks straight foreward but what is the process to re install and make sure the pan seals to the block properly?

 

[98TsiAWD]

should i be worried about the overspray, its really giving me an ulser every time i think about the car.



also what are the steps to removing and re-installing the oil pan. removal looks straight foreward but what is the process to re install and make sure the pan seals to the block properly?

I wouldnt really worry about the overspray, the crank isnt down that low.
Use RTV all the way around the gasket (on the inside edge of the bolts) and it should seal fine.

 

[chrysler kid]

alright, is there a gaskett inbetween the pan and the block? should i spray the gaskett with rtv on both sides, or spray the pan and the bottom of the block?

thanks for the anwsers btw

 

[Defiant]

Don't be concerned with the copper spray in the hole. The filter will pick up any that may drift in the pan, which it probably won't to begin with. It can't get to your bearings.

Put some small vise-grips on that bolt head, and a screwdriver under the vise-grips. Lever the bolt out. You should find a bit more to those threads, go gentle and turn, see if they'll let you unscrew.

Gently try a new bolt in the "stripped" hole, see if it'll get grip. If not, re-tap with ¼-20 threads. If you use grease on the tap, and if you're bold enough, you can get away with -horrors!- tapping it without dropping the pan. No more than a half-turn, back out the tap and clear the chips, and do that all the way in. Any chips that do fall into the pan, if they get picked up by the oil instead of just left on the bottom of the sump, might scratch the oil pump, then get removed in the filter.

Now, then. There is a more adventurous method, but there's more risk. You could try running an Allen-head setscrew into the hole, still ¼-20. It's hard enough that it should roll its own threads as it goes in, using lots of lube and a gentle touch. However, I don't know how well the blind nuts are attached to the wall of the pan, and you might pop it off.

It's only a drain, it isn't holding any pressure. But the nature of oil will cause leaks by the capilary attraction of the oil in the sump as it's splashed on the backs of the open threads which will cause it to worm its way through the clearance in the fastener threads and make a nuisance leak. Putting a light coating of Permatex #2 Non-Hardening on the threads at assembly will prevent this, and if you add copper washers under the bolt heads you'll be golden. Use a gasket under the flange, give both sides a light coat of spray copper.