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Oil leak from turbo

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white90gsx

15+ Year Contributor
674
1
Dec 21, 2006
Wilburton, Pennsylvania
I have a question can a turbo leak oil in the exhaust side..Because my turbo went(very little shaft play) and was burning a lot of oil thru the exhaust and theres not much oil in the intake..The ic had almost a quarter of a quart of oil in it and was in the pipes but the throttle body wasn't really that bad..I was wondering if there maybe something went in the motor?
 
i had the same problem,my 50trim turbo was shot. i was smoking crazy,and i was able to see oil spitting out of my tailpipe.Didn't had oil in my ic pipes at all.So i took of the turbo off of the car and inspected it.It turned out,that the seal on a exhaust side was demaged and the thrust bearing was bad to.I sent the turbo to Precision and they fixed everything (new seals,new center cartridge with an upgraded bearing) i paid 600$$$ :(
 
Ok...I have another turbo coming I hope that's the problem..
 
Well I pulled the turbo today and it was puddled in the intake side and the exhaust side.
 
Yeah then it was most likely just your turbo seals.I got oil running threw my ic and intake and everything else it could possibly get intoROFL.Its my turbo seals and this turbo has never been on a car.I guess it was just sitting or something.Now i half to rebuild it:mad: Good luck with the next turbo:thumb:
 
Blow-by occurs when the explosion that occurs in your engine's combustion chamber causes fuel, air and moisture to be forced past the rings into the crankcase. Your engine's rings must maintain an excellent fit in order to contain the pressure.
The causes of blow-by: wear, soot and deposits
As rings and cylinder liners wear away they are less capable of maintaining this seal. Consequently as a car ages the amount of blow-by that occurs can increase.
Soot and deposits left over from incomplete combustion that collect on the rings can also inhibit their seal worsening blow-by.The effects of blow-by: loss of horsepower and oil contamination and dilution
Blow-by inhibits performance because it results in a loss of compression. When the expanding gases slip past the rings they cannot as effectively push the piston down and make the vehicle go. As a result the car will have less horsepower. This also results in a loss of fuel economy.
When the fuel, air and moisture slip into the crankcase they contaminate and dilute the oil in the crankcase.
Among the many gasses in your compression chamber are unburned fuel, moisture, sulfur dioxide and soot. Once these gasses slip into your crankcase they can dilute into your engine causing great damage. The detergents and Molybdenum Disulfide work together to clean the soot and deposits off of your rings allowing them to better seal the combustion chamber.
The Moly fills the crevices in the cylinder walls providing a better seal:
 
Wow very nice...Well this oil burning in the exhaust happened in 5 min time period I tromp on it to run from some car with red and blue flashing lights:) and I only seen oil while shifting and it got worse then after I shut it off and turned it back on it was just chugging out the exhaust. The motor only has 21k on it(SO the old owner says). I have no real lose in power at all..I just called my buddy and im borrowing his compression tester tomorrow.

Can the rings go that fast?
Oil is clean.. No antifreeze in it.
 
There are two types of rings on a piston. The compression rings stop the air and fuel from leaking down the sides of the pistons and into the engine block. The oil-control rings stop oil from being drawn up into the combustion chamber.

If your compression rings are shot, then you will find your performance will suffer, and your mpg
will drop as well. Your engine may run rough, and when you change the oil, you will probably find fuel mixed in with it.
The best way to check for failed compression rings is to get a compression tester. This is a gauge that measures the compression in a cylinder. Take out the spark plug from the cylinder you want to check and then connect the gauge. When you turn the engine over, this will show the pressure in the cylinder, and any pressure loss but you said your not mixing anything and no performance was suffering.
(Extra info just thought id post it for anyone else that comes up with this problem in the future)

(Oil rings are a little different. If your oil rings fail, they will not draw the oil back down into the sump. When the piston comes down on its intake stroke, the vacuum in the cylinder will suck oil into the combustion chamber, and it will burn when the spark plug fires. The result of worn oil rings is a thick, blue-grey smoke from the exhaust
One simple way to check this is to drive down a fairly steep hill, letting the engine compression slow the car. When you reach the bottom, hit the throttle. If you get a cloud of blue-grey smoke billowing out of the back of a car,then your oil rings are pretty much gone.)Do a compression test and post the numbers up.Cause these cars your dealing with a few different possibility's.

The turbo seals would blow oil into your bov,ic and threw out your other piping.I would put a catch can on your valve cover breather and see if you catch any oil.Also check your pcv valve.I had to check all of this on my car cause i was getting oil threw out my ic and all.Do the compression test and catch can and see what happens then post the outcome.Its a step by step process to find out the problem.Id say turbo seals but check everything before pointing to one problem cause it could be multiple problems or just one.Can't tell till test's are preformed.And i couldn't tell you,Ive never heard of them going that fast but anything is possible.
 
Hey I have a question I have a ss oil return line but its strait ss lines and then the two bungs..At the end there's a nasty kink going to drain pan and I don't want to risk flooding the new turbo. So can i just put a hose to fit over both ends and make it a little long so it doesn't kink?
 
Yeah not good to have kinks in that line.I wouldn't recommend modifying it in anyway but i guess its possible.Just gotta make sure you get the correct seal.But i highly doubt it will hold up for a long period of time.Why did you decided to go with a ss line??
 
sounds like what happened to me when my t-25 turbo blew.. I was going WOT and suddenly a huge plume of white smoke came out the tailpipe, smoke screened the cars behind me bigtime. Pulled over, smoke chugging out the pipe and the turbo was red hot.

Later I found the turbine wheel snapped off the shaft and oil was being pumped into the exhaust.

Does the engine still run good while smoking? Is there evidence of the oil coming from the turbo manifold (black carbon deposits)? When my turbo blew the outlet port of the turbo mani was pretty clean and dry, but a pool of oil was in the downpipe..
 
Well im selling...yea the power was still there..I want to fix it then sell it..the ss line was on when I bought it..I think maybe that caused it. Im going to get a trans cooler line like a inch(id) and slip it over the threads on the -10an fitting and put a hose clamp over it. What do yous think?
 
Ok...I did the compression test....149,155,160,60...Seems I have a dead cylinder..The car runs fine except a little smoke comes out the breather filter on the valve cover and a little smoke out the exhaust but that could be still there from when the turbo blew. I dropped oil into the cylinder to see it raises the compression and it doesn't. Also it holds 60psi and doesn't leak or drop at all.. What else could this be unless it the bottom end it toast..
 
Did you run across the cylinders a couple of times and average the results? I usually do all 4 cylinders, then go back and do them one or two more times and average the results. It helps to prevent false readings and gives a bit more accurate results.

Anyway...definitely sounds like some serious ring issues if you are reading only 60psi. (I had a broken ring land and was only down 15-20 psi...picture at bottom of this page).

You could also do a leak down test to get a better idea of what's really going on with that cylinder.
 
Yea I ran them twice...Like I said its holding 60psi..I did not start with the piston at tdc like is says but i don't think that's the problem here..Also I read that timing could cause low compression..My exhaust cam is retarded pretty far would that effect all the cylinders or one?
 

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A leak-down test to determine where the compression is escaping (intake, exhaust, crankcase, gasket, etc.Also if your battery is weak,the engine will turn over slower and give you lower readings so you should check on that to.

I always use extra info to make sure it was done right before jumping into other tests and for other people that are having the same problem so don't mind this part....Press the gas pedal to the floor to open the throttle plate, and keep it at WOT (wide open throttle) for as long as you're cranking (if you didn't pull the MPI fuse, there would be a bit of a mess)
Now turn the ignition to the ON position, and hold it there for a count of four revolutions (do not turn the key on-and-off four times). On each rotation, the gauge needle will jump slightly less than the previous one.It may take more than 4 revolutions to get a stable reading; crank for up to 10 seconds or until the needle stabilizes, whichever comes first.(MAKE SURE THE ENGINE IS WARMED UP A GOOD AMOUNT)


Since the reading stayed the same then i suspect worn valves or valve seats. If the gauge shows a very low or no reading on any one or more of the cylinders, then serious internal damage has occurred.Hopefully its just bad valves or valve seats.

Here's the numbers for your engine.

2.0L Turbo engine
Compression ratio 7.8:1
Standard compression 164 psi
Service limit 121 psi
 
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Well the car was warm but not warm up all the way but I don't think that's it because all the cylinders would be like that. I don't think is the battery( I had it hooked up to a jump pack) because it was only in one cylinder.I put some oil in it but i really did not put that much. But the thing I don't get is that it runs fine starts up fine. But seems to have blow coming out the hole on valve cover.
 
valves or valve seats,rings..Ive never seen turbo seals blow oil out the breather.If it was a small amount of oil id say use a catch can but it seems to be a lot.Have you checked your pcv valve also?? Trust me understanding these cars fully is near impossible.Process of elimination is the only way to get to the bottom of your problem.Not even a full blown mechanic could get to the problem by just brain storming they would be getting to the rings and checking the valves and valve seats right now.I'm thinking rings more then valves or valve seats inless you tore your motor apart before.Wish i could diagnose your problem in detail and narrow it down to one thing but i tried to limited it down to two things now its time to get your hands dirty tear it apart and find out what the real problem is.Good luck:thumb:
 
Hahaha thats funny tear it apart I will not sink one more dime into this car..Everyone is like its the neglect of the previous owner wrong Ive never had a car break like a dsm- turbo blows the motor is like i might as well go too..That motor was rebuilt my a professional speed shop with less than 21k on it..If its the bottom end then so be it.I have had spent at least almost $500 just in fluids in the past month because stuff is always breaking...The car will stay the way it is..Im posting everything in the classifieds..I will buy a new pcv but after that forget check the classifieds tell you friends!!
 
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