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Oil Leak from Timing Belt Tensioner Area

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airman

Probationary Member
3
0
Jan 6, 2008
Greenville, South Carolina
Hey all - new to the forum and it seems to be like a nice community. Decided to join a large one because the one I'm a member at isn't very quick for help.

Let me introduce myself first: My name is Mike, and I live in Greenville, SC. I own a '95 Eclipse GS-T A/T. A week after I got it, my oil cooler bolt came loose and caused an oil blowout, and with that I spun a rod bearing. While I had everything pulled apart, I decided to do a rebuild. I paid a lot of attention to my head - ported, polished, 3 angle valve job, standard BC valves. Also put in new rings, bearings, but didn't have my crank repaired. Hope it won't hurt anything. Tossed a new head gasket, air intake gasket, and exhaust manifold gasket in the mix as well.

After 3 months of sitting, I finally got her to fire up again. Compression is great (170+), which I'm happy about. It was only pushing around 150 or so when I got her.

Here are my current issues:
Mainly, I'm frustrated with two oil leaks. One is getting oil onto my exhaust manifold...and thus causing smoke. I have a new valve cover gasket, so I don't think it's coming from there. The smoke almost looks like it's coming from underneath the manifold.

My main problem area - there's a pretty good trickle coming from the timing belt tensioner area. I lost one of two of the bolts that holds it down, so I grabbed one from the pile of bolts I had, and torqued it to spec. So - once I cranked her up for the first time, and did a victory dance, I noticed a *drip drip* on the garage floor. I traced it up to the bolt that I substituted. Worried, I shut her down, and pull my belts off, then timing belt, then pull out the two bolts holding in the tensioner. The one I subbed in was pretty coated in oil. I looked and compared the two, and the one i subbed is about 1/8th of an inch longer than the other. I didn't feel any early resistance while torquing both bolts down, so I don't think I've caused any holes/etc in the block, but I'm pretty confident that's where the oil is coming from.

I've checked related threads, and some have suggested a bolt sealant? I take classes right near a NAPA, Autozone, Advanced Auto, and O'Reillys. If I give this stuff a shot, what exactly do I need to look for? I know I don't want bolt lube or Loctite, is it straight up called bolt sealant?

I'm also open to suggestions if you don't believe this is the problem...because like I said, I'm not fully confident that's where the oil is coming from, so I'm totally open to suggestions. For those interested, here are some pictures of the reworked head:

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Here is the head in all her glory fresh off the block for the first time:

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Thanks in advance guys.
 

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Off the top of my Head we all know that one of those Exhaust Studs is in a THRU hole into an Oil Galley so I Loctited mine - There DEFINITELY is a Tensioner Bolt that will leak if not Loctited - I take it you did the BSE while you were in there? - There are several potential Oil Leaks associated with that Mod - Look over Backspooln's EXCELLENT pictorial in the Head Section... & welcome to the Boards Airman, there are several hot DSM's at CAFB

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...6707-project-rely-ability-6-bolt-rebuild.html
 
okay - so a big problem has arose. while tweaking, i started hearing a slight noise i remember quite well - spun rod bearing. i guess my crank wasn't in good enough shape and now it's done it again. now i've got to pull it and have it worked...

at least, that's what it sounded like. it didn't sound like my valves hitting something. sigh.

is it possible to drop the crank from underneath the car?
 
BUMMER - The Experts here all consider the Crank NON repairable & I agree - I'm sure you could drop that Crank in car if you wanted to but I would NEVER do that - & I successfully did Rods & BSE with Motor in car - My advice is always jerk the Motor if Crank is bad - & Certainly if you haven't done the BSE you need to do that while Motor is out & hell I'd bite the bullet & get rid of that Auto too while you are "in there".
 
haha i'll bet getting rid of the auto soon enough. money's a factor right now.

anyways - just out of curiosity, why is the crank non repairable?
 
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