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oil leak from small pipe

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Big B

10+ Year Contributor
99
0
May 5, 2011
atlanta, Georgia
ok i tried to get help on a previous post about this but i think i described it wrong. the mechanic called it a down pipe leak but it has nothing to do with the exhaust. anyways its a very small curved shape pipe that goes from the oil pan, or somewhere around it, to the turbo. its leaking oil because of a faulty gasket. does anyone kno the stock gasket set part number so i can order a new gasket for a 98 eclipse gst?? thanks alot
 
the part store cant seem to find the right one so they told me to find a part number. the mitsubishi dealers just keep trying to sell me an evo LOL so im tired of dealing with them

and could u tell me what that pipe is called?
 
The pipe is called the turbo oil drain pipe...If you call mitsubish with the part number, and tell them thats what you want..Make them get you that part..


ASA is not that hard to figure out..But it seems like the parts guys at mitsubishi seem not to know how to work the damm program..
 
any auto parts store can get it. Normally it comes in the turbo gasket set. You get 2 per set. one for the pipe to the turbo, and one for the pipe to the oil pan.
 
A LOT of times places will not sell them individually or as a set of 2. You need to purchase the entire turbo kit now. I just had to replace mine on my EVO 8 and Talon, and had to turn to JNZTuning.

JNZ Tuning
 
I have a few turbo gasket sets sitting. I always like to keep spare gaskets for things like that. Now I have AN fittings tho, so the only gasket that could leak is the one at my oil pan. I may have a couple spare sitting however. I will check a bit later. If I do, u pay shipping and they are yours.
 
You can cut your own with a sheet of gasket material and copper spray it. Never had any issues with a return line gasket after doing this.

Or preferably you can use one of those bolt on Female -AN adapters at the turbo and have an -AN bung welded onto the pan.
 
You can cut your own with a sheet of gasket material and copper spray it. Never had any issues with a return line gasket after doing this.

Or preferably you can use one of those bolt on Female -AN adapters at the turbo and have an -AN bung welded onto the pan.

The only problem with your train of thought here is that welding a bung to the oil pan means you need to remove the pan. Get the bolt on one and you dont have to worry about pin hole leaks or anything like that.
 
sounds like its your oil-out gasket on your turbo to oilpan.. may as well change both gaskets on either end of the pipe while your at it... i think its just two 10mm bolts on either end, its no biggie. just drain your oil first, unless you like making a mess. And i coated bother sides of my gaskets with Red RTV before install, make em a hair above hand tight, and youll never have a prob again..
UNLESS its the pipe ITSELF that is leaking at its flex point... this is rare but happened to me 3 years ago.. i took the pipe off, i cut out the flex section, leaving a rib on either end of the pipe, so i could attatch some hosing between the two to act as a mock flex-section... it makes re-installation MUCH easier, as its much more flexible, and youll never have to worry about that particular type of leak again... but look out for the oilpan, camshaft seals, oil filter housing, etc... this is a popular mod... ive done it myself and i recommend it... just use good clamps for the hose, so the mod doesnt leak on you. happy new year all! any questions PM me, i love to help!
 
mach v has an oil return line gasket kit for 10 bucks. i believe it comes with 4 gaskets 2 crush washers and 2 bolts

edit: http://www.machv.com/turoilretlin.html

there you go, next time you don't have to buy an entire turbo gasket set.
one more thing DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BOLTS THAT BOLT UP TO THE OIL PAN BECAUSE IF YOU STRIP IT then come back here and tells us your problems LOL. i don't know the torque specs for it, but a quick search on google wouldn't hurt.

oops lastly it doesn't hurt to add a little rtv on the gasket, and around the pipe after you have installed it, just in case it leaks
 
sounds like its your oil-out gasket on your turbo to oilpan.. may as well change both gaskets on either end of the pipe while your at it... i think its just two 10mm bolts on either end, its no biggie. just drain your oil first, unless you like making a mess. And i coated bother sides of my gaskets with Red RTV before install, make em a hair above hand tight, and youll never have a prob again..
UNLESS its the pipe ITSELF that is leaking at its flex point... this is rare but happened to me 3 years ago.. i took the pipe off, i cut out the flex section, leaving a rib on either end of the pipe, so i could attatch some hosing between the two to act as a mock flex-section... it makes re-installation MUCH easier, as its much more flexible, and youll never have to worry about that particular type of leak again... but look out for the oilpan, camshaft seals, oil filter housing, etc... this is a popular mod... ive done it myself and i recommend it... just use good clamps for the hose, so the mod doesnt leak on you. happy new year all! any questions PM me, i love to help!

I dont mean to sound like a dick here, but how over full is your oil pan if your oil level is above the oil return line for your turbo? You are not draining that oil from the turbo if its above that level. it will fill and you will over fill that case and blow the turbo seals.

Yes its a 10mm set of bolts. Next DO NOT USE RTV. there is NO need for it. It is not a pressured line at all so its not like your going to have to worry about RTV. Simply put your gasket in there, and hand tighten your bolts. Then add another half turn and you should be perfectly fine. Just make sure you clean both sides of the mating surface first.
 
yes rtv is not necessary, but a little doesn't hurt also. it makes it a lot easier for the gasket to stick on the pipe while your installing it.
 
The only problem with your train of thought here is that welding a bung to the oil pan means you need to remove the pan. Get the bolt on one and you dont have to worry about pin hole leaks or anything like that.

Well the only problem with that line of thinking is having the gasket between the bolt-on bung and the pan and risking a leak anytime you have to remove the line or if it gets knocked when working down there ;)

Then anytime you upgrade or change setups, theres no gaskets to worry about.

Just go -10 or -12AN the first time and be done with it.
 
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