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Oil filters

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pimpin81

15+ Year Contributor
524
0
Dec 14, 2007
bellingham, Washington
Got a new Talon tsi a few weeks ago got around to
Doing some preventive matience on it now I
Might have a problem .

Changed from a micro guard oil filter and unknow oil

To a wix oil filter and penzoil 10w 30

Seem to be having unusually low oil pressure at idol now the idiot light even faintly flicked a few times this scares the crap out of me.


So I want to get you guys opinion could my current oil and filter be the problem get too thin when it's hot and oil filter too restrictive ?

Have great oil pressure when driving and never had a pressure prolbem before the change.
 
I remember reading a mass oil filter review a few months ago and I remember that they said stp Bosch and mobile were 99% the same. And the k&n and wix/Napa gold were also the same.

That's partly true. There's only a couple companies that actually make them and they are restamped and sold.
 
Just got the car and don't know the previous owner so I don't know what kind of oil they used

I know the book reccomends a 15w 40 for 0-100 degrees but every oil I find with that weight at the parts stores say its for desile pickups.

So where do I find this magical oil LOL

Actually diesel oil isn't bad for our cars. I actually run Rotella T6 5w-40 in my 3g, all my DSM's and my Gixxer 600. Have been for years now. Diesel oil is good oil.

As far as filters, the Napa Gold filter is about the closest to OEM as you can get (at least for my gixxer, haven't ripped apart a DSM one), so that's all I use. They try and model the OEM filters exactly, so I'd assume it's 99% identical. Never had any problems with them, and they're like $7, or $2.40 if you wait for their sale. I have like 15 of them from their last sale.
 
The WIX is by no means a bad filter or anything and I agree that it will get the job done. But I'm the kind of person who is willing to pay more for extra protection (even if it's not needed). Plus, with Employee discount, I can buy K&N's with the change I find in my car. :p

Glad my pics brought some insight.


So, agreed, I love our Employee Discount!....:thumb:
 
I run OEM Mitsu filters. Dirt cheap and reliable Mitsu quality.

Also, 20w50 is stupid thick oil, get rid of that junk.
 
10w-30 is stupid thin oil for an engine making 100hp per cylinder.

400hp doesn't really entitle you to use extremely thick oil though. I had a procharged built 306 91 mustang that made 635rwp and still used 5w-30...
 
That's why a person should run 10w40 in that case. 20w50 is like molasses. Even 14L diesel engines that make 2000 ft-lbs of torque run 15w40, or 0w40. Just cause you make more power doesn't mean you need that thick of oil.

What I don't get is why people run really thick oil, then have oil pressure issues, and resolve that by porting the OFH. All your doing is putting more of the oil into the pan and having less run through the engine.
 
So I guess all of us running Brad Penn 20w50 are just silly, huh? :rolleyes:

C'mon guys, I put 10w-30 in my sisters mini-van. If you think your engine needs the same protection as a 120hp NA V6 then go for it. Coming from someone who has first handedly experienced what knock does to bearings, I'll run 20w-50 all day.
 
So I guess all of us running Brad Penn 20w50 are just silly, huh? :rolleyes:

It's not needed at all. You have 400hp. That's nothing special at all. I have had cars much faster and know people with MUCH faster cars and none of them use that molasses, Dsm's included.

You're logic is flawed. Hp doesn't entitle what oil you use. Like I said, I had a procharged mustang making way more than you running 5w-30. My brothers old cobra had twins at roughly 950rwhp on 10w-30. You don't need molasses oil just because you read some test online.
 
It's not needed at all. You have 400hp. That's nothing special at all. I have had cars much faster and know people with MUCH faster cars and none of them use that molasses, Dsm's included.

You're logic is flawed. Hp doesn't entitle what oil you use. Like I said, I had a procharged mustang making way more than you running 5w-30. My brothers old cobra had twins at roughly 950rwhp on 10w-30. You don't need molasses oil just because you read some test online.

I think I'll trust proven test results, chemical composition data, and my own DSM results over your recommendations. Keep right on using that wonderful Mobil 1. ;)

******

I can't believe how many people are saying to get rid of the 20w50 oil. And Mobil 1 10-40? Ehhh... yeah...ok. Might as well just pour some brake cleaner and anything else you want into your crankcase.

I used to run Mobil 1, until they removed all of the zinc from it and turned it into an eco-friendly, politically correct oil that just dares you to run it in your DSM motor. I'm not sure what happened to the link to FP's oil performance test document, but there is some very good reading in it that may open your eyes. (My guess is they have been taking heat from some of the oil companies they weren't too happy with, but I dunno).

I run Brad Penn 20w50 year round (for about 2 years now), and my engines won't be seeing anything else in the near future.

EDIT: Since there is so much misinformation running rampant in this thread, I'll host the article here, until told to remove it.
 
Craig, I completely agree you need the QUALITY of oil to be really good, but why in your opinion do you need oil that thick when Mitsu recommends 10W30? Are you bearing clearances insane and you need to make up for it or what? Lubrication is what's needed and you flow more oil through the engine with thinner oil.
 
Ah, I knew I wasn't going crazy. Thanks Calan.

HP does in fact dictate the weight of oil. The rods and crank float on a film of oil, they should never actually contact eachother. V8's have twice the bearings and bearing surfaces to absorb knock, preignition, etc so they can use thinner oil and hold up just as well. Our little 4-bangers have to put up with the same power, noobish tuning mistakes, and do it with half the bearing surface area. Therefore, you need a thicker film of oil to keep the bearings floating rather than making contact with the crank and potentially destryoing the engine.

20w50 might be thick when it's going in, but were talking about thickness and demand at 200*. 10w-40 isn't "bad oil" to use, especially if it's a good brand with the right content, but I personally wouldn't go any thinner than that.
 
I think I'll trust proven test results and chemical composition data over your recommendations. Keep right on using that wonderful Mobil 1. ;)

******

I can't believe how many people are saying to get rid of the 20w50 oil. And Mobil 1 10-40? Ehhh... yeah...ok. Might as well just pour some brake cleaner and anything else you want into your crankcase.

I used to run Mobil 1, until they removed all of the zinc from it and turned it into an eco-friendly, politically correct oil that just dares you to run it in your DSM motor. I'm not sure what happened to the link to FP's oil performance test document, but there is some very good reading in it they may open your eyes. (My guess is they have been taking heat from some of the oil companies they aren't to happy with, but I dunno).

I run Brad Penn 20w50 year round (for about 2 years now), and my engines won't be seeing anything else in the near future.

EDIT: Since there is so much misinformation running rampant in this thread, I'll host the article here, until told to remove it.

I have read the article. I just don't believe in doing and believing everything on the Internet. Sure it's most likely correct, but I'm not gonna run 20w-50 because of it. Mobil 1 is a good oil regardless of what they took out. I already know this but it's cheap and better than all other similar priced oils. I don't believe in spending all that money on oil for minimal gains and "protection" that can be had from a cheaper oil. Since you seem to know a lot about oil how about to tell me how castrol edge is actually the best oil you can buy at parts stores. Oh maybe you didn't read that article. I did. But that doesn't make me want to run it.

Im all for running good oil. But the post from the guy that said he runs it because he has 100hp per cylinder is just ignorant. Hp doesn't entitle you to use a certain oil. Just because you use a certain oil in a minivan doesn't mean you can't use it in a 600hp beast of an engine. Someone needs to educate themselves just a little more on oil and engines in general.

I know I'm a "noob" but I do know a fair amount about cars. I'm not trying to start or continue a flame war. Im stating my opinion on the subject. I will run mobil 1 because I have never had an issue. You won't have an issue with most oils. It's personal preference regardless of what an Internet article says. I know motorcraft oil for a fact is great. My mom bought her 2003 ford focus new from the dealer. Changed her oil every 3000 at the dealer with motorcraft oil. I popped off the valve cover for fun one day and that engine literally looks brand new inside with 165k on the clock.
 
Craig, I completely agree you need the QUALITY of oil to be really good, but why in your opinion do you need oil that thick when Mitsu recommends 10W30? Are you bearing clearances insane and you need to make up for it or what? Lubrication is what's needed and you flow more oil through the engine with thinner oil.

Well, when's the last time you saw a 4g63T running factory tolerances? :)

The oil viscosity should definitely be chosen based on the motor; how it's built and modified, and what it "likes". I personally want the most shear strength I can get (given other properties being equal), as long as I can maintain the same flow and oil pressure. With synthetic race oils, that usually isn't a problem, especially considering all the work that most people do to enhance oil flow (OFH porting, head return porting, remove BS, custom HLA regulators, etc).

Here's something that I don't see many people mention; how many of you were wrenching on cars in 1992, and remember what the 10w30 oils of that era were like? I was, and I'll tell you this from first-hand experience; the 10w30 oil you buy on a shelf today is MUCH thinner and a completely different animal than the 10w30 in use when Mitsu wrote that manual. :)

I would recommend a synthetic race oil, either 10w40 or 20w50, with a high zinc/phosphorus content. Fortunately, FP did the ground work and their paper does a good job of documenting which oils are the best for our motors, and why. (As well as pretty good evidence for reason to not run Mobil 1).
 
Ah, I knew I wasn't going crazy. Thanks Calan.

HP does in fact dictate the weight of oil. The rods and crank float on a film of oil, they should never actually contact eachother. V8's have twice the bearings and bearing surfaces to absorb knock, preignition, etc so they can use thinner oil and hold up just as well. Our little 4-bangers have to put up with the same power, noobish tuning mistakes, and do it with half the bearing surface area. Therefore, you need a thicker film of oil to keep the bearings floating rather than making contact with the crank and potentially destryoing the engine.

20w50 might be thick when it's going in, but were talking about thickness and demand at 200*. 10w-40 isn't "bad oil" to use, especially if it's a good brand with the right content, but I personally wouldn't go any thinner than that.

My point was that the factory recommended oil weight of 5w-30 was used on an engine with triple the horsepower of stock. There's no need for 20w-50 in any engine unless it was built for it. Plain and simple.
 
I have read the article. I just don't believe in doing and believing everything on the Internet.

Do you even know who Forced Performance is, and how much those guys know about DSMs?

Mobil 1 is a good oil regardless of what they took out.

ROFL ROFL ROFL

Ok. So they have taken out a large percentage of the zinc and phosphorous (the main contibutors to the oil's ability to protect your bearings), but it's still "good"...even though the worn thrust bearing test and data sheets show otherwise.

Please explain how that works.
 
Do you even know who Forced Performance is, and how much those guys know about DSMs?



ROFL ROFL ROFL

Ok. So they have taken out a large percentage of the zinc and phosphorous (the main contibutors to the oil's ability to protect your bearings), but it's still "good"...even though the worn thrust bearing test and data sheets show otherwise.

Please explain how that works.

It's called personal experience. That's how it works. Just because it scored the worst on a test compared to others doesn't mean if you run it your engine will explode. 630hp and 950hp cars running Mobil 1 for years, never had an issue. But go live by your Internet tests ;)
 
630hp and 950hp cars running Mobil 1 for years, never had an issue. But go live by your Internet tests ;)

I don't care if cars with 26128736871263hp run it. The fact is that it does not have the protection that it used to, and it is not the best oil to run in our motors because of this. That isn't personal experience; that is a fact that is easily backed up with a simple glance at any published data sheet on it, even if you don't want to believe test results from a company that has been there since the beginning with these cars.

Your opinion is your opinion; but telling people that Mobile 1 10w-30 is a "good" oil to run in a DSM motor is bad advice, "plain and simple". Anyone that cares to read the ingredients and do a bit of research can see this for themselves.
 
Oil viscosity is, along with engine break-in, one of the most debated and sensitive topics. I'm quoting this:

The oil viscosity should definitely be chosen based on the motor; how it's built and modified, and what it "likes".

because I believe its the one thing to take out of all the back-and-forth bickering. If you run 10w30 and it works for your engine, great, but don't preach it to everyone as the oil viscosity to use unless you know exactly how their motor was built and to what specifications. The same goes for the guys pushing 20w50.

My humble opinion.
 
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