Oil Feed line from Head...inner threads stripped!

[braceyoself777]

Whats up guys,

Got a typical problem here but I've heard several suggestions already but I need some clear advice on how to.....you know.....directions. Anyways, the threads in the head where the banjo bolt supports the feed line is stripped......aluminum bits were on the bolt when I removed it. Someone told me that I helicoil it but that risk putting metal in the oil....plus, I don't have all the amazing tools to preform the simple repair. 2nd.....re-route the feed line from the oil-filter housing.....this sounds alot more reasonable....but I don't know where to start. What supplies do I use such as bolt size, lines, and what not......I want to drive the DSM rather than my truck because of gas.......and also cause its fun.....HELP!

I went ahead and purchased a oil-feed line relocations kit from ExtremePSI for $40. Says that it gives better and cleaner flow to the turbo.....hope they are right. Anyways, if anyone put one of these on their DSM before give me some directions so I'm not hurting myself trying to put this thing on. Also, What should I use to plug up the old oil feed that is stripped in the head? Just a larger bolt with JBweld to seal if off?

 

[silver bullit]

Helicoil Or tap and die.

You have to remove a hex bolt on the oil filter side to fit it in. Not easy but not hard.

 

[BrokenTsi]

You'll be able to heli coil it without any problems. Go get an 8x1.25 kit from advanced auto or something. its super easy to do.

 

[jake247]

You'll be able to heli coil it without any problems. Go get an 8x1.25 kit from advanced auto or something. its super easy to do.

the kit comes with the tools and directions.

how are you going to block up the hole otherewise?

 

[BrokenTsi]

Ive seen some people do some pretty dumb repairs.

 

[braceyoself777]

Ive seen some people do some pretty dumb repairs.

Thats my point in being....I'll probably just reroute the oil line from the oil filter housing.....which bolt needs to be removed?

 

[4Motion4g63]

Remove the Oil dummy Light Sensor, thats what I had to do...... you still have your Oil PSI hooked up, but Both is sorta redundant..... Oil light comes on if you are out of oil, and you probably wont have much Oil pressure if your out... If you are good to your dsm you probably check it once a week or top it off in our case...

Helicoil the old line and put the bolt in it till its tight and just leave it.......Mine was helicoiled once and THEN stripped out...... I got the bolt to snug and left it at that.....It leaks a drop once and a while but im bout to rebuild a new motor.....

 

[braceyoself777]

Do you need a power tool for the helicoil kit....I have one but I was just wondering.

Remove the Oil dummy Light Sensor, thats what I had to do...... you still have your Oil PSI hooked up, but Both is sorta redundant..... Oil light comes on if you are out of oil, and you probably wont have much Oil pressure if your out... ....

The light is almost like your gas indicator. You don't notice it until the light starts to blink. I'll decide to leave it on for now, but is it necessary to take it off or is it just "IMO" things.

 

[BrokenTsi]

The oil light comes on if you're low on oil pressure last I knew. I had an engine once that spun a bearing and the oil light came on at idle. Oil level was full.

You have to use the right sized drill bit to drill out the stripped threads. Make sure you do it straight, you only have one shot at it. Then insert the tap, and slowly start to make new threads. Go about 1/2 a turn, then back it out, then go another 1/2 turn, and repeat. Make sure you go deep enough so that the heli coil sits in there nice and flush with the head. Once you put the heli coil in, you cant really take it out. Then insert a new bolt with a crush washer gasket. The bolt is short, you should be able to find one at a hardware store, some of these dsm vendors sell that bolt with the crush washer seperately. Or you can just go to the junkyard and grab one off a non-turbo head.

 

[braceyoself777]

Cool....also...is it hard to remove the hex bolt off of the oil filter housing?

 

[99gst_racer]

Do you need a power tool for the helicoil kit....I have one but I was just wondering.

Just a hand drill.

Cool....also...is it hard to remove the hex bolt off of the oil filter housing?

No. This picture shows where to connect the feel line. Just remove the plug that currectly on the filter housing, and plumb your feed from that port.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

ACtually, the helicoil kit is an M10 x 1.25. It's NOT cheap. You are looking at $45 or more. You will also need to buy a 13/32" drill bit. I JUST did one of these a few weeks ago. Dude was NOT happy about having to buy the kit. But, it had to be done.

 

[99gst_racer]

Factoring in the price of the 10mm Helicoil kit, it would be cheaper to just drill the hole out larger and change the thread completely. Afterall, it doesn't need to be 10mm for any particular reason.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

Factoring in the price of the 10mm Helicoil kit, it would be cheaper to just drill the hole out larger and change the thread completely. Afterall, it doesn't need to be 10mm for any particular reason.

Problem with that reasoning is this....Where you gonna find a banjo bolt with a larger size opening, and then you have to buy all new hardware and make a new oil feed line. Keeping it the same size, allows you to retain the OEM feed line..for now. Plus, it's a LOT easier to find banjo fitting adapters that are 10mm opening and -4AN.

 

[99gst_racer]

Problem with that reasoning is this....Where you gonna find a banjo bolt with a larger size opening, and then you have to buy all new hardware and make a new oil feed line. Keeping it the same size, allows you to retain the OEM feed line..for now. Plus, it's a LOT easier to find banjo fitting adapters that are 10mm opening and -4AN.

Good point. I sometimes forget that the OE 1G feed line is still probably one of the most commonly used feed lines.

A larger threaded hole would probably only work for someone that is either plugging it off or building a braided feed line set-up.

 

[braceyoself777]

Good point. I sometimes forget that the OE 1G feed line is still probably one of the most commonly used feed lines.

A larger threaded hole would probably only work for someone that is either plugging it off or building a braided feed line set-up.

Yeah, I'm going with a re-route set up from the filter housing. Seems more logical cause it will extend turbo bearing life...with actual filtered oil. Anyways, I took out the hex bolt and it took some heating with a propane torch...which was actually fun....and as far as the stock oil line....I'm plugging it. I'll keep you guys updated.

This is probably the easiest install I have ever done when it comes to putting a new part on a car. I just re-routed the oil line from the filter housing and plugged up the OE oil line. If you do it right....with the right tools....its a 30 minute install...maybe even faster.

 

[Defiant]

The light is almost like your gas indicator. You don't notice it until the light starts to blink. I'll decide to leave it on for now, but is it necessary to take it off or is it just "IMO" things.

Uh, NO. The oil light is nothing at all like your fuel indicator. When your oil light comes on, you have NO OIL PRESSURE, and about five seconds before you wipe a bearing.