Oil feed from filter housing for MHI turbo. Should I add a turbo oil filter?

[motomattxxx]

Hmmm, longer route? What's the distance the oil travels from the filter housing to the turbo through the engine vs. the distance the oil travels to the turbo through a ss braided line?

Most guys wanting to run high rpms like to keep the rear BS in and cut the counter weights off of it. This is what i'm going to do. The oil pump shaft will be better supported but free from the sideloads caused by the counter weight (which leads to bearign failure in high reving situations). I want my 2 X RPM spinning oil pump to remain in one piece as I take my engine to 9K.

I'm thinking that 1/16 to 5/64 (.0625-.078) restrictor diameter off of the filter housing will bring the oil pressure down the proper pressure for a MHI unit where an engine is experiencing factory engine oil pressure (no bs removal). Does anyone have experience w/ this?

The restrictor is to change oil VOLUME to the turbo, and will usually raise oil pressure due to the decrease in volume.

 

[Stez]

Your thinking wrong bro.

The oil that you get from the oil filter housing is filtered, and it's going to be the cleanest. That's why several DSM shops recommend that you run a oil feed line from the oil filter housing, such as my FP Green from FP. They recommend running there SS oil feed line straight from the oil filter housing because it's cleaner

Take a look to the pic please....

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and if you'll take a look at the oil filter housing and to its inside channels you'll see that oil feed hole, which most people use to feed their turbo is situated near the oil pressure switch. Now you can see from the picture: oil pressure switch is situated pre oil filter....

Now try to understand me why do i thinking wrong??

 

[Generation X]

I dunno bro. Mine looks kinda different than that. Maybe the 2g is different. I've always been told that the oil filter location is the cleanest and provides the most pressure. If not... anyone can just purchase one of these filters and have no worries at all.

http://store.forcedperformance.net/...duct_Code=FP4ANFilter&Category_Code=DSM-Turbo


Also.... here is a picture of what mine looks like:

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[Defiant]

Don't put all that much faith in "filtered" oil. When cold, you might be filtering 5% of your oil; when warm you may be filtering 50% at idle, and less as revs and pressure come up. That's why it's called a bypass valve. The idea of a "full flow" oil filter is only advertising claptrap.
And if you do have enough crap in your oil that the filter is going to effectively remove it, your motor is already shedding enough material to kill every bearing in it anyway.
The primary purpose of an oil filter is to sell filters for the oil filter manufacturers. Their actual effectiveness in engines is much, much less than you'd expect, and virtually none of what you'd hope for.

 

[dsm-onster]

Take a look to the pic please....

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

and if you'll take a look at the oil filter housing and to its inside channels you'll see that oil feed hole, which most people use to feed their turbo is situated near the oil pressure switch. Now you can see from the picture: oil pressure switch is situated pre oil filter....

Now try to understand me why do i thinking wrong??

You and I have 1990s we're different from the 1991-1994 in yet another way. RRE Turbo Oil Supply Line Instructions has your same pic. That link will help. Using the lower of the two fittings on the housing is what we need to get filtered oil.

There is interestign info in the vfaq on oil from the Engine Oil Bible. It mentions why we need to change oil even if we have oil filters. Looks like having a filter that filters large particles is better than no filter at all. It also mentions bypass oil filters and magnetised oil traps.