Not Running Right

[Bytz]

Hey Tuners,

Here's my most recent log, I don't know what's causing my car to not run right. I'm seeing some weird air fuel estimated ratios. Here's a link to my last thread explaining some of the problems I've been having.

PROBLEM SOLVED: BASE TIMING OFF

 

[boost97gst]

Maybe im missing it, its early, but i dont see a logged WB value. And over 9* knockret? Dont do that anymore. Log the WB and see whats really up with your afrs

 

[Bytz]

Yeah I don't have a wideband.

 

[JFatch1890]

Get a wb your going to need it

 

[Bytz]

That's not part of my budget at the moment so it isn't an option. But if there was a boost leak that was causing my problem I could easily fix it.

All I'm asking is if someone knows what could cause these issues without needing a wideband.

Thanks.

 

[My1GLaser]

It looks like you're rich as hell! You haven't touched the fuel or timing so you're basically running stock AFR which is about 9.5:1 give or take. I would say some of that is rich knock based on the AFR est & when it starts to knock. You shouldn't be knocking that much at 10 psi and 15 lb/min airflow.

Have you checked your knock sensor to see if it is oozing black goo?

What octane fuel are you running?

Have you double checked your base timing?

Are you running 450s? Your LTFTs are pegged negative.

How old is your front O2 sensor? Your car goes in and out of open loop a couple times while your sensor is flatlining or stays really rich. It should be in closed loop under those conditions, but something isn't right and the sensor voltage isn't oscillating, so it puts itself into open loop.

Your Wally 255 may be overflowing the stock FPR under idle conditions. Your O2 oscillation looks horrible unless your driving. It works for some people without an AFPR, but maybe not for you.

Your TPS needs adjusted to .63V when closed.

You do hit 1693 HP @ 2628 rpms (213.90 sec) so that's awesome

As for blue smoke under boost, how's your PCV valve?

 

[Bytz]

Yeah I should definitely check the knock sensor, when I find out where it is haha.

Running 91 octane always still on the stock 450s, and I haven't double checked my base timing yet.

I noticed my O2 sensor looked weird too so I'll definitely replace it because it's probably over a year old.

I just checked my PCV valve and it's fine. I still don't know why it would blow smoke under boost like that. I'm going to make some catch cans very soon, I'll see if that fixes that problem.

 

[My1GLaser]

go to oxygensensors.com or sparkplugs.com and get a Denso. Bosch sucks. I printed out the webpage and got advance auto parts to price match.

 

[Bytz]

Replaced the old O2 with a new NGK one, still getting knock so I assume I have a boost leak.

Also I believe the blue smoke is due to bad valve stem seals. My compression and PCV valve are both good so that's all that's left to blame. Unless it's a headgasket... knock on wood.

 

[Bytz]

Did a proper boost least test thanks to some help from my girlfriend and we were able to pin point the leak (it was a big one) coming from the cylinder #3 fuel injector. So once I get some O-rings I'll post the results and see if it's fixed.

Thanks again for your help My1GLaser.

 

[Bytz]

Still didn't fix the issue. If anything it's getting worse and now it stalls everytime I push in the clutch in gear to coast to a stop. Downshifting doesn't help either and it will stall when the clutch is pushed in.

 

[My1GLaser]

Post another log.

 

[Bytz]

Here's a new log.

 

[boost97gst]

Boy, this is hard to troubleshoot without a wb. You really gotta get one bud. Is your boostest even remotely close? Ive never seen that much knock with that little boost. And its not a massive turbo either, its def a good sized one but still, that much knock at so little??? You gotta help us out and hook a wb up.
Btw, a boost leak may cause knock like rich knock but it sure as hell wont make you run lean. I think your running terribly lean and when you get the WB, you will be able to actually calibrate. Dont do more damage.
One more thing, you were talking about the "0 rings" at the bottom of the injector right? The big ones that sit on the head? Cause the little orings on the top that go in the rail most likely isnt where your leak is at.

 

[Bytz]

Yes, I replaced both sets of seals. I have a bit of a fuel leak as well, so maybe that's causing the wacky a/f ratios.

 

[boost97gst]

Yea, ya didnt mention that. Remember, the more boost you run the higher the fuel pressure worse the leak is, leaner the conditions become. Not to mention that tiny problem of gas spraying in your engine bay. That may be a big part of your knock right there dude. Just leaking fuel so bad it drops pressure.

 

[My1GLaser]

First to address the knocking;

Have you checked your base timing with a timing light?

Have you checked your knock sensor to see if it is oozing?

I think some of that is phantom knock cause you are still in closed loop, and/or barely boosting @ 85.4, 155.2 & 174.8 sec when it knocks.

Some of it is probably rich knock (391.8 sec) since you are still on the factory fuel curve. Unless you have changed settings in DA which it doesn't look like you have.

The 91 octane isn't helping any.

Now to address the part throttle and idle issue;

At the beginning of the log when your Frt O2 is staying rich in closed loop, the STFT quickly drops to max neg (-16.8) the Frt O2 drops to lean and the STFT shoots to max pos (16.8) then the O2 begins to oscillate, but with long sweeping motions. There is a ton of timing pulled to make this happen and you finally get some timing back when you hit the gas and your IDC goes up a little.

Your closed loop doesn't start to look good until about 97 sec to 155 sec when you the Frt O2 is oscillating perfectly. You are cruising with enough fuel demand that you aren't overrunning the stock FPR.

Then you let off the gas or slow down and the IDC drops below 2% and it happens all over again. Its a viscous cycle of trying to keep your AFR at 14.7 in closed loop, and I think you are flooding your car with fuel with the 255 & stock FPR. The ECU goes in and out of closed loop several times and pulls timing and does everything it can to get the Frt O2 to oscillate properly because the fuel trims aren't enough. So IMO you are either overrunning your Stock FPR or you don't have 450s.

You need to simulate idle switch in the RPM tab. It looks like its sticking or not adjusted correctly and the car possibly doesn't switch into closed loop properly from that as well. Its just easier to simulate it from TPS then replace it.

 

[Bytz]

Have you checked your base timing with a timing light?

Welp, I forgot I messed around with the CAS a couple of weeks back (because I thought I would be able to set base timing via DSMLink.. I'm still learning). Saw where it was before when it was timed right and put it back.

No knock, and it runs like a top. I'll go do a pull and post the log.

Thanks again!

 

[My1GLaser]

haha, I'm curious how far off it was to be knocking in closed loop like that! Did you use a light or just turn it back to the marks the nuts make when tightened?

 

[Bytz]

It was turned all the way clockwise, but it was supposed to be right at the halfway adjustable point. I turned it back to the marks as I couldn't borrow a timing light. So I'll time it dead-on when I can.

But right now, it's running great. No knock, pulls all the way to 7k. Love it.

Here's a new log.

 

[lil corb]

It was turned all the way clockwise, but it was supposed to be right at the halfway adjustable point. I turned it back to the marks as I couldn't borrow a timing light. So I'll time it dead-on when I can.

But right now, it's running great. No knock, pulls all the way to 7k. Love it.

Here's a new log.

Not to hijack but I have checked mechanical timing and everything checks out (3 oclock and 9 oclock timing marks are dead on with dowels at 12 o clock and set my ignition timing to 5*BTDC but the only way I could do it is to have the CAS turned all the way clockwise.

Is that normal?

 

[My1GLaser]

IMO no. Where is your crank timing marks when both cams are lined up?

 

[lil corb]

IMO no. Where is your crank timing marks when both cams are lined up?

I haven't checked timing marks on the crank yet. I am able to put it TDC with #1 piston being at TDC matching with my crank pulley TDC mark. B/S are removed.

Motor was professionally put together by a knowledgeable machine shop/ vendor on here. I highly doubt there are mistakes there.