Noise in my Passenger side and extreme heat in hub area.

[Jboh]

So I have a problem. There is a loud rattling noise underneath on the passenger side. It increases when I press on the gas. It is only when my car has been driving for a while. When it gets to rattling really bad it creates a lot of heat in the hub area... I touched my lug nuts (to make sure they weren't loose) after it happened one time and it burnt me. I have replaced the struts, tire rod ends, sway bar link, and rotors. I have inspected the inner tire rods and axel. The boots are good and show no signs of extreme wear. I took my car to a Mits dealer to inspect my ball joints and they said they are in spec. so It leaves me Dumbfounded!!! I know I have bad motor mounts, but I don't think that could really affect it. My car is out of alignment and my front tires are pretty bald so Im thinking maybe the tires are out of balance. Although, It doesnt always shake only after I have been driving a while. Before i forget to mention the wheel bearing is ok it does not seem loose at all and makes no noise. So I am getting tires and an alignment here soon I am just looking for some helpful hints please please please..... Since I can only post in the newbie forum I am not really expecting a lot of replys due to the fact that I don't think a lot of the members on here check this out... But any help is very very helpful... Thank you

 

[miguelmcv]

It sounds like you have a bad wheel bearing.

what makes you think that the Wheel Bearing is OK?.

The only thing that produce Heat on that area, is the Wheel Bearing and the Brake pads.

Check your brakes, Make sure the Caliper is coming out and in freely, But, to me, it seems like the Wheel Bearing.

 

[fourgsixthree33]

I would also point my finger towards a wheel bearing. Make sure none of your calipers are froze.

 

[blindboarder_02]

I concur with the other dr's. Wheel bearing

 

[Jboh]

Ok i'll try the wheel bearing on that side. I Just didn't see any movement or hear any noise coming from it.

 

[fourgsixthree33]

Jack up the front end and support it on jack stands. Try to wiggle the wheel with your hands at 12 o clock and 6 o clock. Then try it with your hands at 9 o clock and 3 o clock. Is there any play?

 

[Anubis_4_99]

theres always 9 to 3 movement due to steering column slop, at least there has been in everything i've owned. the bad movement is 12 and 6.

Jack up the front end and support it on jack stands. Try to wiggle the wheel with your hands at 12 o clock and 6 o clock. Then try it with your hands at 9 o clock and 3 o clock. Is there any play?

 

[Jboh]

There is no movement at all...

 

[tenn-gsx]

If all the bushings and balljoints are good then there are only 3 possibilities.

Warped rotors dragging and becoming more noticable when hot.

Bad axle.


Bad wheel bearing. I find this as the most likely one. Even though you have no movement you can still have a bad bearing. Ive seen it before. The race gets a burr and starts making noise. This causes heat and burns up the grease eventually. When this happens it wont take long for it to fail completely. Ill bet if you disconnect the axle from the hub and then spin the wheel you will feel a gravel type sensation. This is easy to notice on a rear wheel bearing fwd car.

 

[n3xu5l3ak]

also check the torque on the cv shaft nut, it happened to me once, one side didn't get tightened and the cv pushed the hub out of the bearing about 3/4 inch and my rotor was dragging on the caliper bracket and it made a bad grinding noise when it got hot, it went half way through the rotor before I figured it out

 

[Jboh]

OK so i changed that wheel hub assembly. I noticed that the noise has somewhat subsided, but it seems as though its still kinda there on and off.. I have also noticed that when i am sittin on a slight hill my car doesn't roll. It is a manual and it seems like the caliper up front may be bad. Maybe the piston isn't retracting all the way like it should??

 

[cookmeup272]

That would be a good guess

 

[2GbTalonGuy]

If you do wheel bearings, you might as well do them both at the same time.

 

[95TalonOwner]

Take the caliper off and check to see if in compresses back in.

 

[miguelmcv]

I am agree, Once your replaced one hob, You should replace the other one so is even.
If Money is not a problem, I would suggest to rebuild both of the calipers.

 

[DOHCTA]

Just try inspecting and servicing your calipers. The sliders needs a silicone lube and check the piston boot isn't broken. Sounds like if there's no roll back on a slight hill, that caliper is clamping even after you lift your foot off the brake pedal. SLIDERS or PISTON.

 

[rpgdsm91]

As I have been replacing my '91 single piston brakes with 2g big brake upgrade, I found my toner for the ABS was separated from the hub. The other side was fine and snug against the hub, but I may have to buy a new one or have this one welded so I can install my new calipers. I wouldn't be surprised if you have the same problem, good luck!

 

[Jboh]

I have replaced both front wheel hub assemblys and noticed excessive brake dust accumulating on that passenger side. I am going to try to replace the caliper. Maybe upgrade both front calipers to the dual piston calipers.. Which is pretty easy to do right? Just like replacing a caliper any other time or is there any mods required?

 

[95TalonOwner]

I have replaced both front wheel hub assemblys and noticed excessive brake dust accumulating on that passenger side. I am going to try to replace the caliper. Maybe upgrade both front calipers to the dual piston calipers.. Which is pretty easy to do right? Just like replacing a caliper any other time or is there any mods required?

Just need to replace calipers, caliper brackets, hardware, pads, and rotors.

 

[DOHCTA]

The perks of having a '99 gsx, didn't need to worry about that at all. If you go to a dual piston caliper, I recommend you use HAWK brake pads and a slotted rotor for optimal braking at a low cost.