2G No Spark

[FMFGSX]

Quick question.

Car started fine after new motor install. Ran for a couple seconds between 2k and 5k rpm, then bogged out. Lots of from burning off oil in I put in the cylinders to keep the rust out. Started the car again and it bogged out again, only now it won't start.

Pulled the plugs and cleaned them off and no start.
No spark coming from coils. check via spark plug on valve cove.
Pulled spark plugs again and they are wet with fuel
Pulled the 3 wire coil plug to check for power: bottom has 11v, the upper two are 0.
Checked the 3 wire plug at the Cam sensor: One reads 11v, two reads 5v, and three reads 0.
Checked any fuse that would make sense under the hood and nothing is blown.
Checked antitheft fuse under driver side and it's fine.

So the question is which fuses am I not thinking of right now?

 

[brandnew161]

it maybe a shot in the dark but what about the power clip right below the fuel rail. Dont know how to explain it but it a dead ended connector and the electrical component is on a mounting bracket. Anyways the clips on mine were broken and it slipped off one night. Couldnt figure out why i wanst getting spark for about half an hour. Something to check i guess

 

[FMFGSX]

any pictures?

 

[brandnew161]

hang on i'll snap one

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red circle= what the clip plugs into (i have an extra one)
blue circle=the clip i'm talkin about. If you notice i had to zip tie mine because of the broken clips

 

[Ibbanez]

I remember when I first found that whole piece and plug on my first 1g that I was trying to peice together with no experience. Talk about fun as your welcome the DSM world.

 

[manrightchea]

well your spark is mainly controlled by the ignition transistor module (pic), your coils and of course wires. I would recommend that you change your 20 amp ENGINE fuse in you underhood fuse box, I was hunting a similar issue and that fuse was blown although it looked perfectly fine. Just because the filament isn't broken, does not mean that the fuse is good. Other than that you have you ignition module, coils, and wires. You may have to suspect the crank angle sensor(s) next.

 

[FMFGSX]

My goal today is to meter the fuses, and re check spark from all for plugs. So it's the ENGINE fuse that controls spark?

Edit: So pulled the ENGINE fuse and it's not popped. So what volts should be coming out of what wires on for the coils? What other fuses could be popped?

Edit #2: So I metered the ENGINE 20a fuse last night and it was fine. Didn't really get a chance to check the coils for sparking again due to the rain... I'm just not brave enough to work on a electrical system in the rain...

Edit #3: Check all four plug wires and no spark at all. Checked that the fuse was getting power. Checked the three wire plug for the Coils and have 11v at the bottom wire and nothing at the top two. After looking at the ignition diagram, I'm starting to think it's the power transistor. I checked the plug going to the transistor and it's getting power. I checked the wires on either end of the transistor plug connect to the coil packs and there is no break in current. If the transistor were to burn out then neither coil would get any power. I believe the blue/black and blue/red wires at the coil should be getting 5v from the transistor. Can anyone confirm this?

 

[FMFGSX]

Edit #4 New power transistor and still no spark. This is starting to piss me off. For anyone who uses this thread for their own no starting problems, here is a link for the 97-99 Electrical manual: http://www.scribd.com/doc/6721606/9799-mitsubishi-eclipse-Electrical-manual

 

[FMFGSX]

Edit #5: After testing Fuel pump relay, MFI, and both Cam and Crank sensors. After all this, it looks like the CPS is bad.

 

[steve]

A bad CAM or Crank position sensor could do this but I'm wondering about you reading 11v rather than 12v+ and thinking that perhaps while cranking the battery voltage is dipping much lower to the point where the ECU isn't going to try and fire the coils.

Can you try charging up the battery and see what happens.

 

[FMFGSX]

That was my thought two days ago, Tried with a fresh charged battery and jumping. When checking the CPS the signal volt never dropped and was a constant 5.02v. It should change between .4v and 4v as the crank spins.

 

[steve]

When checking the CPS the signal volt never dropped and was a constant 5.02v. It should change between .4v and 4v as the crank spins.

Yes it should. The Crank sensor should do that twice per rev and the Cam Sensor 4 times.

 

[FMFGSX]

So good news. Changed out the CPS tonight and now I have spark.

 

[steve]

Good work.

 

[this_tsi_8urV8]

It does start, right?

 

[FMFGSX]

So car started ran for one min, then died again. Now no spark again and cps sensor looks to be dead again. I'm thinking the crank plate maybe the problem.

 

[steve]

Lets hope it's just the crank plate and not the crank moving in and out in the bearings. (crankwalk)

 

[FMFGSX]

I hope so. It's a rebuild motor with fresh bearings!!!

 

[steve]

Have you checked the end play?

 

[FMFGSX]

I will be checking today. Reading up on the VFAQ. Any tips for an A/T?

So checked end play as per VFAQ :AWD Crankwalk Check

First got .05 inch end play but checking distance between the crank shaft center bolt and brake caliper. However I was sure this was movement of the motor itself. So to counter this I put pressure on the motor by jacking it up just enough. This time I got no noticeable movement.