No power/Idle issues

[GreenDemon]

Ok. I purchased a 92 Eagle TSi AWD from Craig's List and got ripped off really bad. I took it to a mechanic because it was throwing the engine light and would run fine and then when the engine light would come on it would have no power and the whole car would just vibrate.
Well, there were like 50 codes that were pulled and a ton of stuff was replaced. 9 different seals, the turbo and turbo and idle sensor are just a few. He refurbished the intercooler and replaced my AC compressor. Did an oil change etc.
He had to set the idle to an extreme high setting to keep it running with the AC on. Otherwise, it would die. The idle has gone back down some again and doesn't like to stay running (while the AC is on) when in a neutral position at a light, etc. The fuel smells horrible and i've put at least five additives in it in the past 3 weeks since I've had it back. It will eat a full tank of gas in less than 200 miles.
And, It's back to throwing the engine light with no power and the whole car just vibrates. (It will run and drive, just no acceleration power). It will lurch, light will come on and go off. It will have power and then no power. And it will now sometimes just stay that way and the light won't go off. It was self correcting for a while, but now it's a constant thing. I've just had all this stuff fixed and it's driving me nuts. The dealer pulled the codes, so why is it still having a problem? I think it feels like a spark plug issue, fuel line, vacuum issue (although, my mechanic says he checked all vacuum possibilities) or heaven forbid the turbo again.
Any suggestions? My mechanic is clueless.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Terry's Talon Troubleshooting Tips #3 - Fast Idle (aka. Idle Surge)

this for idle, could be ecu with that many codes, pull it out and inspect for bad caps.

 

[dondmon96]

My 90 had the same symptoms. For me what I found after replacing all kinds of sensors, turbos, etc etc was that the balance shaft belt had broke, and tossed the timing off one tooth. Don't know how it didn't grenade the motor, but after getting different ecu codes, checking everything that was my major problem.

It had almost no low-end torque, boost would build to about 7psi then fall off and the car would start bucking and jerking.

So if this sounds like what your car is doing, might want to check the timing belt.

 

[GreenDemon]

I'll look at the suggestions. Although, to reclarify, it doesn't have a fast idle. The idle was raised to keep it running or otherwise it will die. The idle has lowered itself, again, on it's own and the issue with keeping it running (while the AC is on) is a problem. When I'm out on the road driving it, it will suddenly start lurching (go fast, slow down) and the engine light will come on and then the whole car will vibrate and have no power. The boost won't go over 7 at that point and it has no acceleration power. Like a bad spark plug. If the dealer pulled all those codes, why didn't they find the issue?

 

[92AWDHX40]

I dont know, could be a boost leak, got a logger and read my own codes and replaced problem sensors, logge rset up was 75 bucks, then i can read codes anytime.

 

[dondmon96]

If the actual Cam/Crank timing is off it will throw all kinds of codes like Idle Air, Mass Air, Air Temp and look like a million other things. That's exactly what mine did. I finally did take it to a dealer and they was saying things like a blockage in the exhaust, spark plugs, bunch of crap like that.

It really does sound like your timing belt has slipped.

 

[GreenDemon]

Yeah, I can have him check the ECU and timing belt. Couldn't do anything, but rule it out, if not the prob. I should really put it on the back burner and wait until I have time and money to do a complete rebuild. I was told the car was setting for at least 2 years, but after being ripped off this bad, I think it was a junkyard pull made to run and sold to me. I have to admit, the interior is almost immaculate and the body is straight, so it has potential. The motor is the original with only 89k miles on it. Even now, in the shape it's in, it's a fast lil car and could give quite a few top dollar cars for today a good run on the street and come out on top. Lmao, what i wouldn't give to find a boyfriend who was a mechanic right now. I like working on cars, but the technical and number crunching stuff isn't my strong point.
Thnx for the suggestions. I'm gonna take her in later this week and watch her sit there for another freakin month probably. I'll post some pics today and let you know how goes the elusive CEL problem.<<<< me
<<<< the mechanic

 

[DSM1G90]

definitely pointing to the ECU on a lot of these problems .... 89k on the motor is called "barely broke in", but do the belt thing...pronto.

Bet timing is way off more than anything - previous owners prob loves to crank the CAS up all the way just to get more power which is a wrong way to do it ....

 

[acdrew]

Start with the small stuff like checking your intercooler hoses, a boost leak will cause these symptoms. Maybe a hose is blown off if not go to vacuum lines,I recommend when buying a old turbo car redoing your vac lines as soon as you get the car. If that doesnt work I would work my way into electronics, a bad oxygen sensor in my old nissan caused my car to have the same symptoms or it could be a intake manifold gasker or exaust manifold gasket leaking. Do all the small stuff first itll save you money in the long run. Despite the mechanic saying he checked the vacuum and alot of other stuff, alot of people dont really know how to work on turbo cars or what to look for.

 

[Boostinsideways]

1. Check to see if your engine is in correct timing. This can be done by hand and verifying that all the timing marks line up.

2. Check your ecu. Very easy to remove and any damage would be immediatly apparent. A liquid or stick resisdue on the computer board, bad smells, and burn marks are inidcators of damage here. The ecu can be remove with a 10mm socket, and use a phillips head screw driver to remove the cover. The ecu on a 1g dsm is located in the center console just beneath/behind the radio.

3. Boost leak test. Fix any leaks.

If none of those help you could have a failing CPS or some other issue related to timing.

 

[GreenDemon]

Called the mechanic today. Told him about the ecu and timing suggestions. He never checked the ecu, just took it to the dealership when he couldn't pull the codes himself with two different scanners. So, he's going to check the ecu first. He apparently looked at the timing, and said it has a brand new belt and timing checked out. He didn't replace the fuel filter, even though the car had been sitting for over 2 years. He checked all of the vacuums and hoses when he replaced the turbo and did the seals. I hope the computer is it or maybe a bad hose. Mechanic tried to tell me when I got it back that it ran bad because the motor is just old. Bull! Thanks for the suggestions. I hope we find it, this thing is costing me a pretty penny just to get it road worthy. I'll have been able to buy a brand new car by the time I do the rebuild on it. I'll let you know what he finds out after I get it in there this week. I may just look for a new mechanic after this. A good mech is so hard to find.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Yep they are so i wrench on 99 percent of my car, thats how i learned in this dsm world.

 

[GreenDemon]

Would love to wrench my own, but don't have the tools or space to do so as of yet. I'll be glad when I get everything I need. Hoping to have the tools, the space and parts for this project within the next 3 years. A paint job being the last element. I want to paint her a beautiful midnight purple and dark lavender. (Girlie car, ).

I saw a member had a pic posted on here at one time of some headlights that looked totally sweet. I have been unable to find them again It looked like 2 blue half-moon eyes staring at you. And the fog lamps were awesome. It made the image. If anyone has a clue to those, let me know. That will definitely be a part of the project.

 

[6bolt4g63]

Its scary how you say your mechanic couldnt scan codes and had to take it to the dealer. Thats not a mechanic in my book.

50 codes? Thats insane! Was the wire harness unplugged from every sensor?(joking)

I would def try n swap in a working ECU.

 

[DSM1G90]

Yep..sounds like some the ground traces in the ECU just had to open up-SOMETHING definitely had to do some damage ..

(really, and the mech couldn't pull codes??? that's just too horrible to even think about...)

 

[outcastgsx]

Yeah, like everyone keeps saying, have the ecu checked. With 50 something faults thats most likely your issue. Atleast a starting point, Good luck