The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

No crank, no start, Eagle Summit AWD-Please help

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

GSX Lady

20+ Year Contributor
32
0
Apr 4, 2002
Peabody, Kansas
Okay, I have a friend that bought a 95 Eagle Summit AWD wagon....kind of a cool little suv wannabe. Its got a 2.4 Mitsu motor, and an auto tranny. I'm familiar enough with dsm's, but this thing is about to beat me. :sosad:

The problem is it won't crank. So far I have replaced the distributor....(Thats what he was told was wrong with it). I've checked out the ECU, visually it looks good, smells fine.

The starter has been replaced, I've checked every fuse and relay. I've visually looked over the Park/Neutral switch on the tranny and in blk/red(P)and blk/yellow(N) terminals show continuity on an ohm meter.

I"ve checked the ingnition switch and it has power. When we turn the key on it sounds like an isc motor is setting itself but then nothing, not even the slightest hint of a crank.

The motor does turn by hand.

Anything else I should/could check before I start exposing wire loom looking for broken wiring?

Thanks
 
Arright. If you are not spinning the engine with the starter. Check to make sure you have 12 volts to the big starter terminal. Make sure you have a good engine ground. Now with your handy dandy test light which I "KNOW" you have, test the big post on the starter. Does it light up? If it does, then check the little post with someone attempting to crank the engine. Be sure to not have anything hanging around any moving parts as the belts could attempt to reel your test light in for the kill. If it lights up, then the starter is bad. If it does not light up, then likely you have a fuse/neutral safety switch/wiring problem.

Mondo is right though as they do have the neutral safety switch.

Do some tests and post your results. Get a test light and let us know exactly what you find.

Be careful.
 
The starter is brand new, but I'll check it out. The battery is fully charged.

I"m thinking its a relay/wiring/safety switch problem but I have a nagging feeling I'm just overlooking something simple.

The only safety switch I have found is the one on top of the transmission. Is there another one? In the center console around the floor shifter maybe?

I know dsm'ers who do auto tranny swaps have to bypass the missing safety switch in order to complete the starting circut.

The wiring diagram shows blk/red and blk/yel are the ones that complete the circut in the safety switch. Is it possible to bypass the safety switch to see if its the problem?

It amazes me how much I've learned about cars from owning a dsm :D
 
Depends on how the switch is wired. If you can post a copy of the schematic of the neutral safety switch, I can see how to bypass it.
 
I believe I found the problem. The ignition switch, it has power to the connector at the white and black/yellow wire. But after checking the starter out, I started at the very beginning of the wiring diagram I have.

I decided that if I put a jumper wire across the ignition switch connections it should engage the starter if everything else is good, in other words taking the ignition switch out of the equation. Sure enough it started cranking...Autozone will have one for us tomorrow.
:thumb:

Thanks old mitsu tech, your info helped a lot, at least I knew the starter was fine.

Cross your fingers that its all good tomrorow with the new switch in it.

Cindy
 
These seem to be my symtoms as well except my fuel pump isn't getting power as too. is their an update?
did this fix your problem?
Has anyone shown how to jump the automatic neutral saftey switch because i too cannot find it.
 
When you turn the motor by hand does the timing belt move? I remember one time when my oil pump seized it ripped the teeth on the timing belt. So the motor would spin by hand and you would hear the stater engage and spin but the engine wont turn over because the bottom half of the belt was eaten out.

Never mind glad to see you figured the problem out.
 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

here is one for you. explain this, i don't have a voltage meter with me so i am using a test light.
the light is grounded, i touch the starter relay pin and turn the key forward and the light comes on, when i release the light goes off. working normally.
so then i go to the starter relay, the same thing, so it's working even though it isn't making a clicking sound.

so here i decide well lets check the fuel pump, i turn the key to acc, touch the wire and my light comes on, but here is the kicker, so does my fuel pump.
as long as i hold my test light to it it'll stay on, i let go and the fuel pump kicks off......i even here the relay click to work when i do so.. what in the heck does this mean?
 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

here is one for you. explain this, i don't have a voltage meter with me so i am using a test light.
the light is grounded, i touch the starter relay pin and turn the key forward and the light comes on, when i release the light goes off. working normally.
so then i go to the starter relay, the same thing, so it's working even though it isn't making a clicking sound.

so here i decide well lets check the fuel pump, i turn the key to acc, touch the wire and my light comes on, but here is the kicker, so does my fuel pump.
as long as i hold my test light to it it'll stay on, i let go and the fuel pump kicks off......i even here the relay click to work when i do so.. what in the heck does this mean?
Did you ever figure this out because I'm having the same problem!!!???
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top